TR2/3/3A Steering Box Rebuild?

[TAS525]

Prior to this year’s driving season, I decided to have my old - cracked - greenish hued steering wheel restored. I packed it up and sent to Mike Ruckman down in Tampa last week and am really looking forward to the finished product.
Now, with the stator tube and wiring removed, I’m considering having the box rebuilt to stop the constant flow of oil (Shipwrights Disease?!). I am, however, hesitant since the box was rebuilt previously (around 2002 by TRF), but has continued to leak ever since installation).
Initially, I thought, “Well, maybe it just needs a new olive (compression fitting) and some plumbers tape under the gland nut.” The more I dwell on it, though, the more I think the leak may be coming from the lower seal.
I don’t know, just thought I’d get some more opinions, before I
A) Reinstall the wheel/stator/new olive/wiring etc. and POTENTIALLY remain frustrated with refilling the box or
B) Bite the bullet and remove the box NOW since the stator, etc is already out and send down to Macy’s for rebuild.
I guess I’m trying to talk myself out of doing the job (Wheel/Stator/Wiring removal) twice, but perhaps a $6 compression fitting will solve everything.

 

[titanic]

Looks like 2 choices-Replace the oil with grease or replace the oil seal at the bottom of the box.
Berry

 

[TAS525]

Thanks Berry. Suppose I should’ve mentioned that I’m not really interested in filling the box with grease. Since I switched to the GL4 gear oil (Penrite) from the old 90W, I have been very impressed with the ease of steering it affords. Of course it is also impressive how quickly it runs out of the box!

 

[DavidApp]

Moss sell a semi fluid grease for the steering box.

David

 

[71TR6]

I just rebuilt my TR3A steering box and filled it with the Moss grease as opposed to the oil since I didn't want leaks that I know these things are prone to.

When I first got the tub of grease, I was puzzled how to get it into the steering box. I tried heating it and that didn't help liquify it much (which is probably a good thing). I decided to look for a big-honkin' syringe and while I found some online, I also found one at Lowes- a Craftsman brand Automotive syringe. I bought it, brought it home and filled it up half way with the grease. It worked like a charm. I injected some directly into the steering box through the filler until it was full and then also injected some into the hole higher up the steering shaft. All told, I recall it took around 300cc and used less than 1/4 of the tub. Below is a picture of the syringe.

Hope this helps!

Ron

 

[Geo Hahn]

I always used the Penrite product made for that application - 1800 weight as I recall. Almost as solid as grease & certainly slow to fill. Alas, Moss had it back when but I do not know who sells it now.

 

[71TR6]

The Moss product is Dynolte semi fluid grease.

 

[TAS525]

Certainly would be cheaper than a rebuild and less hassle. How heavy is the steering though with the Dynolite? It was always very difficult to wrench around, especially at low speeds as I remember.

 

[71TR6]

I just finished the rebuild and it hasn’t been installed in the car so I can’t comment on whether it will steer easier or not. I know there was hardly any oil in the steering box when I disassembled it (previous owner put gear oil in there). I’m expecting an improvement over that.

if you want to go with the Penrite oil, Restoration Supply carries it for I believe $19 plus shipping.

Ron

 

[TAS525]

Thanks Ron. So your planning to fill with semi-fluid grease even after your rebuild?
~ Tommy

 

[71TR6]

I finished the rebuild and filled it with the Dynalite using the automotive syringe. The worm was in good shape as were the bearings so I replaced the seal and put a new worm tooth in since there was some wear on the tooth. Key is to set the end play as is outlined in the Bentley Factory Manual.
Ron

 

[TAS525]

Understood Ron, thanks again! I really appreciate everyone’s input here. I may just try the Dynalite/Syringe method this season. Are you able to fill the box with Dynalite from the filler hole, or does it require front apron removal to access the top plate?

~ Tommy

 

[71TR6]

I have the steering out of the car since I’m doing a frame-off restoration so I can’t comment on accessibility. I’m sure others on the forum can chime in here.

Ron

 

[CJD]

I've rebuilt 2 boxes that were in rather sad shape, and both held oil for many years after the rebuild. You should have gotten TRF to make good on the rebuild when it arrived leaking. But, since that ship sailed, I always prefer to rebuild it and do it right. Macy's has a very good reputation, so they can be trusted to do it right. It is also a very simple box to rebuild in an afternoon. It only takes one special tool, which is the pitman (steering arm) puller. Wear parts are the large shaft bushing, the steering pin, and the lower seal. I use the Permatex 518 to seal the cover and shim stack.

 

[TAS525]

Thanks John. I’m kinda leaning the same direction and would do it myself, but I lack the puller (I know, they’re inexpensive and available!) and a press to remove and install the bushing. I’m sure I could find someone local to do that part though. IDK, just indecisive and always limited for time! Would just be easier to ship it down to Ohio.
~ Tommy

 

[TAS525]

Well, right or wrong, I made my decision to remove the box and ship to Macy’s. Always a learning process with these cars and you never know what you’ll run into. Once I finally coaxed the box out of the car I noticed a short piece (appx. 1”) of wire protruding from the lower bolt hole on the steering box bracket. Upon closer inspection and using a pair of needle nosed pliers I managed to withdraw approximately 4” of wire from the lower nut (the one welded to the frame). My assumption is that someone along the line (during the 2002 rebuild?) drilled the nut out and inserted a helicoil. I also noticed the lower bracket (steering box) hole has been drilled out as well. The box itself was from a ‘60 parts car, so either that bracket didn’t fit or there was damage to the frame? Either way, it’s gonna be interesting trying to refit when the time comes.
~ Tommy

 

[mctriumph]

The best option (IMHO) is to re-build the box but pack the lower end with grease(140wt)
then fill with a good synthetic 70-90. Best of both worlds and will never leak (during our lives)
MD

 

[TAS525]

As of May 24, I have completed my “winter” projects!

Macy’s did a beautiful (and efficient) job on the steering box rebuild. They even replaced the lower mount (Above post referenced previous damage). With everything loosened up and radiator removed, it was a straightforward refit. I used a longer bolt to mount the box to frame, since the welded nut had been drilled out at some point. Added a new Delrin Bushing to the upper shaft and just reused the old top felt bushing (relubricated with Graphite Powder). Steering is incredible and, best of all, NO LEAKS! I’ll enjoy it while it lasts.

Since the front apron was off, I took the opportunity to replace the old radiator with a Wizard Aluminum Radiator (painted black with Eastwood Radiator Black) and Macy’s Hurricane Fan (Not a hard job at all with the provided instructions). All hoses were also replaced at this time.

I rewired the front apron with lead kits sourced from TRF and British Wiring. Nice to have colors that actually match! I don’t know how the old original cloth wrapped wiring made it this long. Doubt I’ll get 60 years on this new stuff, but then it’ll be someone else’s problem.

Lots of other side projects, cleaning, etc. but finally got the ol’ gal back together Monday. Just in time to take the “Missus” out for an Anniversary Dinner!

Before I forget, this whole thing started with me wanting to restore the old steering wheel. Mike Ruckman, out of Tampa, FL accomplished this for me and did a beautiful job. I am so pleased with how it turned out and amazed how much it enhances the overall look of the interior.

Here is a before and after:

Thanks to everyone for your comments and suggestions. I am shocked at how well the car is driving (real or imagined?) and can already see the difference in the new radiator/fan combo.

With all this now behind me, I am looking forward to the remainder of the 2021 Michigan Driving Season!

 

[Frank Canale]

I am starting to look for someone to redo my steering wheel. How do you get in touch with Mike Ruckman? Did he remold the entire wheel? How much does he charge. Thank you in advance Frank

 

[TAS525]

I am starting to look for someone to redo my steering wheel. How do you get in touch with Mike Ruckman? Did he remold the entire wheel? How much does he charge. Thank you in advance Frank

The cost was $275 for wheels in average condition (Which mine was - Aged, discolored with some cracking, etc). If you can zoom in on those photos, you’ll see the difference. The thing looks brand new! Without asking, I would say he widened the cracks, filled with epoxy putty and sanded to match. I found out about Mike from a Moss Motoring article and he can be reached via email or phone which are both on the website I think. new2youwheelrestoration.com
He is a very prompt communicator, so you’ll never feel left in the dark. Hope that helps!
TAS