TR2/3/3A Bleeding the Slave Cylinder

[Redoakboo]

O.K. TR Geeks,

I am just finishing the restoration of my 54 TR-2 Long Door. I have the engine running fine, but am having a problem with the Clutch Slave Cylinder.
The master cylinder is new and the brakes work fine. The Slave Cylinder, new, doesn't want to be bled? The MC is full of fluid but I can't bleed the SC. The air bubbles just move up and down. My wife is operating the pedal and I am under the car opening and closing the bleed valve. The clutch lever moves about 1/2" but not enough to engage the clutch. I bought a new spring and I have two rods, one is about 1" longer then the other, came off the old SC. I am using the longer rod, the spring seems to be pretty tight?

What am I doing wrong??

Dick

 

[Graham H]

If you can post a picture we may be able to advise on where you may be going wrong.

Graham

 

[Redoakboo]

If you can post a picture we may be able to advise on where you may be going wrong.

Graham

I have never been successful in posting a pic. If you will send me your email, i will send you some pic's.

Dick

 

[Frank_D]

The location of the bleed nipple is important. Is it at the top of the SC or the bottom. They can de installed in either configuration. If it is at the bottom air will be trapped in in the upper part of of the SC. I think. Have a look a d let us know.
Frank D..

 

[sp53]

I use a glass jar with about 2 inches of brake fluid in it and with a clear plastic tube on the slave cylinder then leave the zerk fitting open and pump the peddle. This will push fluid out and not let air in because of the end of the clear hose is in the glass jar and sealed with fluid. No need to go under the car and open and close. If remember, I can reach down from the top and close the zerk. You also can leave the zerk open in the jar and let gravity bleed the air out. On a gravity bleed, I think it takes hours for the fluid to run out that way, just do not let the reservoir go dry.

steve

 

[Redoakboo]

The location of the bleed nipple is important. Is it at the top of the SC or the bottom. They can de installed in either configuration. If it is at the bottom air will be trapped in in the upper part of of the SC. I think. Have a look a d let us know.
Frank D..

Frank, I have never had success with posting pic's on the forum. Pls send me your email and I will send you a pic.

Dick

I use a glass jar with about 2 inches of brake fluid in it and with a clear plastic tube on the slave cylinder then leave the zerk fitting open and pump the peddle. This will push fluid out and not let air in because of the end of the clear hose is in the glass jar and sealed with fluid. No need to go under the car and open and close. If remember, I can reach down from the top and close the zerk. You also can leave the zerk open in the jar and let gravity bleed the air out. On a gravity bleed, I think it takes hours for the fluid to run out that way, just do not let the reservoir go dry.

steve

I just noticed something i installed wrong. The slave cylinder should be on the other side of the black plate.

 

[Frank_D]

Well you have been successful posting images. That can happen with the install on the wrong side of the mounting plate. It makes a big difference to move it to the other side. It is strange that I have another friend with a TR3A who was very recently having similar problems with the tight spring and push rod. He had done the same thing as you with the mounting of the SC. You are not alone. Remounting may solve you issues.
Frank

 

[Redoakboo]

Thanks Frank,

Dick

 

[Redoakboo]

Frank,
I have got the SC installed correctly now. I used the longer of the two rods I have.

I am letting it gravity bleed. I go out there every now and then and moved the rod in and out. Each time a long stream of bubbles gergulls up the line.

Dick

 

[Frank_D]

 

[Got_All_4]

I am having the same problem in my Tr250 and as I am reading this I know the bleeder is on the bottom. i know better too. Thanks for the reminder.

 

[Graham H]

You need to fit the pushrod to the clutch lever and adjust to the workshop manual specs then with the spring fitted the piston will be pushed all the way into the slave cylinder and you can now bleed in the normal way with your assistant pushing on the pedal. I notice you have a tag on one mounting plate bolt with the spring attached to it, there should be a hole in the plate for the spring to fit into? so no need for the tag.

Graham

 

[Redoakboo]

My TR-2 has that same brass tag. The spring is hooked in to the hole in the tag.

 

[Graham H]

This is how I have it setup.

Graham

 

[Hamish Racing]

Dick
That’s a very small slave cylinder mine is twice the size.
does it give the right amount of travel ?

 

[Graham H]

The rest of it is forward of the mounting bracket and it works fine.

Graham

 

[Hamish Racing]

Hi Graham I was looking at Dicks picture of the small slave which appears upside down as the bleed nipple is at the bottom.
his pic here

 

[Redoakboo]

Hi Graham I was looking at Dicks picture of the small slave which appears upside down as the bleed nipple is at the bottom.
his pic here

Is that a problem?

 

[Redoakboo]

Dick
That’s a very small slave cylinder mine is twice the size.
does it give the right amount of travel ?

In this pic, is the piston all the way in?

 

[Hamish Racing]

Ideally the bleed nipple needs to be at the top as that’s were the air will sit. you need to get the air out as it’s very compressible taking up movement potential.