newcomer needs help

hi to all as a new tr6 owner.need advice on windscreen frame removal,pinch bolts off and locknuts removed from base of shafts.Whole lot is loose EXCEPT the rods are frozen solid to the bracket tubes, i am about to cut them and re-weld on reinsertion unless there is a trick to it. Tried air hammer, penetrating oil, heat, patience(which i am now out of)brass drift etc to no avail. Thanks in advance Mark

WOW, I just had the same problem on my TR4A, and wonder if they're made the same way.

DO NOT CUT anything. EVER.

Here's what I did, and maybe you can do it, too.

I removed the bolts that secure the "tubes" to the interior fender wall. Then I grabbed the tubes/brackets with a cloth and vice grips, carefully, and after dropping oil into the tubes. I rotated the vice grips back and forth for ten minutes, creaking, squeaking, until the bind just broke lose. It worked and was a huge relief.

If your car is built differently, then at least I'm glad someone got to listen to me patting myself on the back.

Mat, don't dispair. This is a very common problem that many are faced with. As I remember, what I did was expand the bracket with a sharp tool and get a pair of ViceGrips onto the body of the bracket. Constant back and forth wiggling should eventually break the bracket aloose. You did unbolt all three (as I remember) bolts? Good luck.

Bill

I've pulled a couple of these off. They can be really stubborn.I usually can get it by standing on the sill panal and pulling/wiggling up (with all I've got) on the frame for a while.
The above ideas are good too. I have done the unbolt trick before. Whatever you do don't cut the pins! And be careful hitting the ends of the pins that they don't get bent or mushroomed.
Good luck. I am going to have to do this on both of my TR4As this summer (wheee)
There are the two big bolts on each end (the pins) and three small ones across the front of the dash (chrome nuts that usually have the lift-a-dot studs for the tonneau) Make sure these are out too, or you won't get anywhere.
And yes TR4-6 are the same design. The only difference is in the top of the frame where the header of the convertable top attaches.

I have heard this problem comes about because the parts were often assembled while the paint was very fresh allowing the pin and bracket to get bonded pretty good.

The suggested approach sounds sensible -- I was fortunate I guess as I was able to get it loose my yanking & wiggling the frame... but if you are doing that leave the nut on there a couple of turns so you don't send the windscreen and you into orbit when it breaks loose.

thanks to all for helping so quickly. vise grips are the solution, for future ref. note that breaking them loose is not enough so dont bother tightening them back up and pulling the frame as i did, once loose keep working the brackets until you can remove them from below, then the frame just lifts out. Before all this you need to cut the seal with a wire or paint scraper as it is often glued to the car ant then to the frame. Good luck to thse of you that will be doing this soon and get some wd 40 up there well in advance.

I was going to add... if all else fails heat the brackets/tubes up with an acetylene torch to make the metal expand. Glad you didn't have to bother with that though.

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...keep working the brackets until you can remove them from below...

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Were the insides of the brackets rusty, painted or what? i.e. could you tell what was keeping them so tight?

No rust there but over the years the paint seemd to have glued the two pieces together. my reason for doing this was to replace the very old rubber seal underneath which was no doubt original. I guess the brackets had been undisturbed since 1969.