TR4/4A TR4 Flooded in flash flood

Kirk_Fisher

Jedi Hopeful

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• Sep 12, 2014

• #1

A month ago, my office was destroyed in a flash flood. My office is a 1940's service station I converted into my law office. I only handle motorcycle wreck cases. It's decorated with old auto/gas/motorcycle/coke etc advertising signs. The bay doors open and I stored my TR4 in one bay and my Harley-Davidson was parked in front of my desk. We had 4 feet of water inside my office. I am in the restoration process.

I'll probably have some questions. The carbs need to be replaced. I am a bit of a purist, but I am kind of leaning toward Weber carbs. Side draft? Down draft? Or, stick with the SU?

 

DNK

Great Pumpkin

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• Sep 12, 2014

• #2

For sure NOT down draft
When did you guys flood?

 

OP

Kirk_Fisher

Jedi Hopeful

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• Sep 12, 2014

• #3

Greenville. August 9th.

 

Geo Hahn

Yoda

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• Sep 12, 2014

• #4

What makes you think that you would prefer Webers to the SUs?

 

tinman58

Jedi Knight

Silver

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• Sep 12, 2014

• #5

I love the new Mikuni's on my 250. I would use them.

 

H

HarryL

Jedi Trainee

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• Sep 12, 2014

• #6

Hope water did not get into the engine & drivetrain.
If so, good luck with it. Had 2 cars flooded the same way.
Harry

 

TR4nut

Yoda

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• Sep 12, 2014

• #7

Sorry to hear about the flood, but it sounds like other than the headache you will get to the cleanup in time to avoid big issues with the engine, gearbox etc. I say stick with the SUs. Go with side draft webers if you want to have something always considered cool but more challenging to set up.

 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P

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• Sep 12, 2014

• #8

Not enough information. If the engine is otherwise stock, I'd say for sure stick with the SUs. If it's heavily modified, then side draft Webers may be worth the extra hassle and expense (but I'd still go for SU).

 

3798j

Darth Vader

Bronze

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• Sep 12, 2014

• #9

I tried DCOE40's with an admittedly stock engine. Great idle - the best. Good, good power. Incredibly high fuel consumption. And, there was always a slight but annoying bog/flat spot when going from steady throttle to first "tip in" of the accelerator pedal.
There are so many tuning combinations that you may spend a good hunk of change trying to get it right. I gave up.
Think they'd probably be great on the track.
Mine have been "garage art" for more than a decade.

 

poolboy

Yoda

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• Sep 12, 2014

• #10

The differential may have taken in water..I bought a parts car from a flood, the engine and tranny was fine, but the differential bearings didn't fare so well. I don't know how much the car was driven with that water but enough..and the rear lever shocks also took in water..at least one of them did.

 

trrdster2000

Luke Skywalker

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• Sep 12, 2014

• #11

Kirk, I would take the back cover off the rear end and put some diesel fuel in a pump up sprayer and give everything a good cleaning. After all has drained out, use a spray can of white lub grease and cover it completely. Just hang the cover on until you are ready to get serious about driving it. At that time you can check for any rust.

Wayne

 

OP

Kirk_Fisher

Jedi Hopeful

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• Sep 14, 2014

• #12

Found a set of reman HS6 carbs for a TR4A. Will they work on a 62 TR4?

Then engine is not heavily modified, but it does have the centrifugal advance distributor, header and Monza free flow exhaust.

 

trrdster2000

Luke Skywalker

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• Sep 14, 2014

• #13

They will work just fine. Even better!

Wayne

 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P

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• Sep 14, 2014

• #14

Kirk_Fisher said:

Found a set of reman HS6 carbs for a TR4A. Will they work on a 62 TR4?

Then engine is not heavily modified, but it does have the centrifugal advance distributor, header and Monza free flow exhaust.

Click to expand...

I believe you'll need to change the throttle linkage, and maybe choke. Otherwise, should work fine. You could try running "richer" needles and see if that gives you a bit more power, as reducing exhaust restriction tends to make the engine run lean.

 

OP

Kirk_Fisher

Jedi Hopeful

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• Sep 16, 2014

• #15

Whew, $1,700 for new SU's.

 

M

mikephillips

Yoda

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• Sep 16, 2014

• #16

With 4 foot of water I'd also drain the engine and transmission just in case some got in around the lower gaskets and seals. Cheaper to do that than possibly find later it did get in and cause rusting or ruin something.

 

H

HarryL

Jedi Trainee

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• Sep 16, 2014

• #17

I alluded to the engine being flooded. If that's the case; you'll have more problems than
carbs ! You can't just drain the engine and gearbox; you have to flood them completely with the cheapest oil you can buy.
Let it sit for a few days and do the same again. Plus you have to check the cylinders for water. There's more than just what I said.
I hope this is not the case.
Harry

 

OP

Kirk_Fisher

Jedi Hopeful

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• Sep 17, 2014

• #18

It did get water in the engine, and likely in the transmission. The mechanic that is helping me with it, was the head mechanic at the local Triumph dealer in the day. He also used to race them and builds a **** of a racing motor. That said, any experience or suggestions with flood restoration, speak up!