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When lifting the tr3 motor without the head and trans, I am thinking of using two of the trans mounting holes on top of the engine casting and a bracket. Years ago I would have done it that way and not worried, but for some reason I am afraid of breaking the casting on the block. I have the standard front picking eye on the timing cover, and I am cool with that, but again the back hookup is bothering me. I find the stock back hook up kinda cheesy plus I would need to put the head on to use it. I am actually thinking about using the flywheel bolt holes on the crank. I understand it can turn, but with the weight on it and the front pinned it should just sit. What are some options others have used for lifting? I like to leave the head off until I get the block and the trans in because of the weight. Plus I find torqueing the head down easier that way.
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TR2/3/3A When lifting the tr3 motor
- Thread starter sp53
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Take one of the studs for the head out and put a bolt in that hole, or use the starter mount holes and the fuel pump holes. The weight of the head is off of it and that is a good bit of the weight.
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Use head studs or head stud holes with bolts. The idea is to clamp the lift chain ends firmly to the top of he block, rather than let the chain roam up the studs. If you use the studs, just put a bit if half inch pipe between the nut and the chain to put the chain firmly against the deck
bob
bob
Yeh I never used to worry about the casting of engines much, but after I saw Keith and John’s motors, I started looking closer and believe these motors seem thin. I am going to make a bracket and put that on the back of the crank shaft to lift the motor off my work table then put it on the ground and then I will most likely put the trans on and pick those two with some soft nylon chokers. The older I get the more carful--- perhaps next time I will just watch.
CJD
Yoda
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I've been thinking about this for a while Steve. I would lean towards the upper bell housing bolt holes. I've lifted larger engines by the bell housing bolts before without a problem. Just be sure to use bolts with plenty of reach, and tighten them fully against the chain, so there is no chance of turning the bolt into a lever. Using the crank may give you CG problems...like being top heavy and wanting to roll.
Yeh I thought so also, but still did not like messing with casting, anyways got it with no problems. I went with the silver spray paint on the figure 8 gaskets, so I could but the head on later. I am glad I did because I had that problem with the liners and I would have had gasket sealer to clean up. This way I can take my time. I believe it will seal and time will tell. If you notice, I put some thread all and a chunk of 2x4 for a temporary spring collapse dealie that way I do not have to look at those springs trying to bust out until I get the engine in and may be the body. I like to move at slow pace. Oh and I have big debt to Tinman because if he would not have mentioned the length of the flywheel bolts, I would have push my mad max seal into the oil pan.
All I had to do was put the larger main bearings in and the motor is tight-- hardly turns, ha. Anyways it is not that heavy and the angle of the dangle kept the load ridged. It did turn some, but only until it stabilized. I have used engine stands in the past, but they make me nervous and my old table is strong. I am kinda out of money for a while so things will slow down some. I plan to use an old rolling frame and start to work on the tub. My sheet metal skills are ok because I worked in a sheet metal shop in my twenties and my welding skills can pass, but the actual body work is going to be a learning experience.
CJD
Yoda
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I hear you about the money! I've been placing an order at the big three once a week. The nickel and dime stuff isn't bad, but every so often you reach a point when you need several big ticket items. It's amazing how parallel you and I think. I have Marv's frame that I plan to use as a jig for the body work too. I'm saving that for last, though, as I am afraid it's going to be a real chore. The original tub only has 3 panels that are usable...so it's a write off. The TR3 donor tub has me worried, as every time I get a closer look at it, I see more Fiberglas cloth work. I fear what I will find under the cloth.
Anyway...keep up the good work. I take comfort knowing you're going through the same trials I am!
Anyway...keep up the good work. I take comfort knowing you're going through the same trials I am!
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