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TR4/4A Cutting an access panel into transmission tunnel cover for solenoid adjustment
- Thread starter tdskip
- Start date
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KVH
Darth Vader
Offline
I have an alternative based on some advice here, as usual.
OK, everyone has their favorite ways and means. For me, I did not want to carve up my vintage tunnel. Don't forget, fitting that 3/16 "bit" into the adjusting arm on the passenger side also requires room. What I did was drill a small hole in the tunnel on that side so that I could move the carpet aside and slide a bit in there for the adjustment. Then, on the driver's side I took some advice from Randall (anyone done that?) and replaced the bolt on the pinch fitting on the operating shaft (solenoid side) with an Allen head screw so that I could tighten and adjust from underneath. So far, all has been great, and I adjusted lying on my back and with the tunnel left on.
OK, everyone has their favorite ways and means. For me, I did not want to carve up my vintage tunnel. Don't forget, fitting that 3/16 "bit" into the adjusting arm on the passenger side also requires room. What I did was drill a small hole in the tunnel on that side so that I could move the carpet aside and slide a bit in there for the adjustment. Then, on the driver's side I took some advice from Randall (anyone done that?) and replaced the bolt on the pinch fitting on the operating shaft (solenoid side) with an Allen head screw so that I could tighten and adjust from underneath. So far, all has been great, and I adjusted lying on my back and with the tunnel left on.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Here's a couple of photos of my setup (shown on a spare OD)
On my TR3, I found that I could maneuver a short length of 3/16" rod into the hole with needle nose pliers, so no need to cut a hole there either. The length was important, just barely short enough to fit between the lever and the cover; plus I had to be careful not to push it all the way in (so there was still enough sticking out to grab for removal).
On my TR3, I found that I could maneuver a short length of 3/16" rod into the hole with needle nose pliers, so no need to cut a hole there either. The length was important, just barely short enough to fit between the lever and the cover; plus I had to be careful not to push it all the way in (so there was still enough sticking out to grab for removal).
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I sliced the cover and riveted a piece of aluminum flat stock to the main cover sealed with automotive silicon. I let the silicon dry on the exposed side of the flange to form a gasket of sorts and fit the rear piece on the flange. Seems to seal well enough. Other side shown in my photo page on the BCF
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No, it seems to work fine, not exactly elegant but the carpet covers it. If you look on my photo page on the BCF you will see the photo of the other side where I used a sheet metal screw to secure the bottom near the cut.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
On the drivers side I cut a hole for serving the solenoid and another for accessing the fill plug.
On the passenger side I did one for the angle drive and adjustment (don't seem to have a photo.
The fill plug hole is covered with the usual TR rubber plug, the other two with plates formed from sheet aluminum.
On the passenger side I did one for the angle drive and adjustment (don't seem to have a photo.
The fill plug hole is covered with the usual TR rubber plug, the other two with plates formed from sheet aluminum.
alanjohnturner
Jedi Trainee
Offline
This is commonly done in the UK
Also popular is a cover that is in two half-pieces from Racetorations
https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/40815-gearbox-cover-mods/
[url]https://www.racetorations.co.uk/page20.html
[/URL]
Also popular is a cover that is in two half-pieces from Racetorations
https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/40815-gearbox-cover-mods/
[url]https://www.racetorations.co.uk/page20.html
[/URL]
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