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1954 100 Project

christophe

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Hello all! I purchased this car last weekend on a whim and now that i have had a chance to really look it over, im glad i did. That might sound odd, but after initial purchase i was a somewhat nervous, but i've found that is usually the case when buying such an old car. The second owner modified the car in 1967 to accept a 283 Chevy V8 and a chevy 3 speed with overdrive. I know that a lot of people probably do not like modified cars, but this appealed to me since i am very familiar and used to working with early Chevy V8s.
Anyway, here are some pictures.


BTW, where can i find the chassis number??? Should there be a plate on the frame somewhere? What about stamps on the body? The only tag on the car is a repop that is screwed into the firewall. I was concerned about this initially, but when the seller showed me the title from 1963 with the same VIN, those concerns subsided. The VIN and previous title state that this is number 158588.
1954 Austin-Healey. The VIN is still odd thought, starting with BTVIL


She's not much to look at right now, but oddly, i kind of like it that way. The car was originally triple black from what i can tell, no to mention the information on the title from 63 states that is was black, but i like the blue. However, if i end up doing a complete restoration at some point, i might go back to black.


I took the car for a quick test drive the other day, but it's really not safe to drive in its current condition. The front driver's wheel moves outward at the top when i depress the brakes. The brakes are also spongy. My to do list before driving is:
1. replace front suspension
2. Inspect, diagnose, and fix drum brakes
3. Add seat belts
4. Replace throttle linkage and add lokar pedal. The homemade linkage is scary and falling apart.
5. Replace trunk floor and reattach gas tank straps
6. Replace old tires with new non whitewalls.
7. Drain fuel, clean and seal tank, replace fuel filter, and replace rotting gas line and reroute away from hot exhaust gases.
8. Set valve lash, timing, and change oil.


healeyonstreet_zps5f2c96ee.jpg



healeyinterior_zps324955db.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]


283 engine shoehorned in place. Previous owner did this conversion in 1967. The footboxes were narrowed, custom engine mounts made utilizing c1 style front mount, and custom fiberglass transmission tunnel to clear 57 chevy manual 3 speed with overdrive.


healeyengine_zps5849cbad.jpg



I think an oval style air cleaner will look better. I was testing this idea out using a Roush air cleaner that i have for another build. This one does not clear, but a polished aluminum unit from billet specialties with a smaller air cleaner should.


healeyengine2_zps98624390.jpg



Edelbrock 8867 carb, which looks like a spread bore to me, but i could be wrong. The secondaries look much larger than the primaries. I believe only the primaries are functioning currently.


healeyenginesansaircleaner_zps8d0b2cd4.jpg



Vintage Prestolite Electronic ignition. It works, but i think i will have Lars build a distributor and switch back to a points system. The car came with 3 extra distributors and another partially melted prestolite box, so that tells me that somebody had a lot of issues with the ignition system in the past.


healeyignitionbox_zpsdd8724cf.jpg



Original gas tank. Its in good condition overall, but the tank surround has been patched in various places and the straps pulled through at some point. Looks like somebody left the washers off the strap studs and that is what caused the issue.


healeytrunk_zps64e9f98a.jpg



Custom hood made by the second owner. I guess he was going for the LeMans look. He used custom mounts and shelby hood pins to latch the hood since the original latch mechanism, which was in the middle, had to be removed for clearance of the distributor.


healey_zpsc335ab82.jpg



Overall the car is solid. It needs inner and outer rockers, a patch on the driver's rear quarter, gas tank surround/trunk floor, and a patch on the lower front inner fenders, but considering its age, that is not bad. The frame, floor boards, and rest of the body are very solid. Plus, it does not appear that this car has ever been hit. The wheel wells, fenders, quarters, and doors show no signs of repairs.
If I decide to keep the car long term, i will probably switch to a muncie 4 speed. The engine only smokes at start up and it's a quick, small plume, so that is likely just the valve guides. While i always like adding more cubic inches, the 283 should provide plenty of power when set up with aluminum heads, Edelbrock EPS dual plane intake, and a quickfuel 600cfm carb.
 

HealeyRick

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The 283 swap into a 100 is a classic. One of the first done was by Max Balchowsky of "Ol Yeller" fame that was featured in Hot Rod in 1954

20i9hte.jpg


2rqg7pg.jpg


v8k040.jpg


Here's a link to the original Hot Rod article entitled "Haulin": https://www.modifiedhealeys.org/Technical/Technical1.htm

BTW, nice GT-350H. High school friend of mine bought one from Hertz when they sold them off as used cars. What a ride!
 

bighealeysource

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Hey Christophe,
Welcome to the BCF, you'll find it a great place to trouble shoot problems, get help, learn about Healey's, etc. Plus a few regular Nasty Boy owners like Rick will be able to help out from that angle. Saw this on ebay and think you got a pretty good deal. First Healey I ever recall seeing was a 6 cylinder roadster with a small block Chevy in it. Must have been about 1960 or so as guy was dating my older sister. Remember thinking how cool it was and loud as h... ! Good luck with it and update us on what you get done.
Regards,
Mike
 

DerekJ

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Nice car and welcome to the club. I agree you should change the round air filter. Always wondered why those filters are so big!. I would ditch the fuel tank and replace it with a new aluminium one.
 

RandyHicks

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Congrats on the new car. The Vin plate should be on top of the right hand frame rail just below the generator. There also may be a plate on the divers side out side panel of the footwell. Body numbers were stamped on all 4 cockpit surround pieces, the trunk prop rod bracket, bonnet drivers side edge of the bonnet, and front of the valance. There should also be a Batch/Body number plate on the firewall, to the left of the voltage regulator.

If no Vin plate it is possible to get it through BMIHT based on the body number.

I'd appreciate a private message with the numbers so i can make sure we have you and car listed in the AHCA 100 Registry.

Thanks,
 
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christophe

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When you say outside panel of the footwell, do you mean behind the vinyl kick panel or do you mean behind the driver's fender on the outboard side of the footbox? I found a stamp on the trunk hinge tab, but who knows if that is the original trunk lid. I could not see a stamp on the frame due to the location of the engine mount, but it might still be there. I looked all over the front valence and the bonnet, but couldnt find anything. There is evidence of filler around those areas, so maybe the numbers are hiding beneath. Im not really 100 percent sure where to look on the bonnet. Can somebody post a picture of the location where i would find the stamp on the bonnet? Thanks!
 
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Chris
Congrats! I know the PO, he's a pretty straight dealer. I thought very seriously about trading for the car a couple of months ago. We were a little to far apart ( money wise) for me to get it. it will make a very good driver.

Marv
 

bighealeysource

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Looks like it might also have a BN2 dash since I believe the overdrive switch and ignition switch on a BN1 are reversed from what your steel dash shows. As to the ID plate, on a BN1 I had the plastic plate was located on the passenger side vinyl footwell panel, maybe a few inches from the door jam edge. Plastic plate was about 2.5 x 3.5 inches and embossed in black letters. The body number stamp on your bonnet/hood is on the driver's side, maybe 8 -10 inches from rear edge of it. Seem to recall it is close to where the steel X brace underneath is spot welded to the bonnet skin. If I was home right now could go measure it exactly but if any bondo or even heavy primer on the edge will make it tough to find. Just check your aluminum cockpit moldings - will be stamped with the Jensen body number on all 4 pieces.
Regards,
Mike
 

Healey_Z

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Great find. I would consider keeping it as a vintage nasty boy!

I would much rather have a period V8 3spd/od than a modern V/8 aluminum head and hot rod looking shiney parts.
 
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christophe

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I found the chassis number. Thanks for sending me the picture of your 54 tag Chris!
The tag was buried under many years of accumulated oil, so it took several scrub downs with dawn dishwashing detergent and paper towels to expose the tag and numbers. I did not want to scratch the surface, so i avoided using anything other than shop towels to clean it off.

However, it appears there is a discrepancy in the numbers on the chassis and the ones on the reproduction VIN tag on the firewall. There is an 8 where there should be a 2. Im not sure if this was a typographical error made at the DMV back in the fifties to early sixties or if there is more history to this car than it would appear. Most people probably would not post this info on a public forum, but I know that most people are here to help, so im going with the assumption that more good than harm will come from being honest and sharing my info an photos. Again, the number on the title from 63 matches the number on the current registration and the reproduction VIN tag on the firewall. I probably would have walked away from the car if the seller had not had the title from 1963 showing this information.
Anyway, Before i say anything else let me ask a question: The number on the Chassis and the Number on the VIN data plate should match on the 54 year model cars, correct???

Picture of the chassis tag. I was very happy to feel the rivets this morning after wiping the frame rail down a few times.



So far i have found the number 3813 on the Trunk Hinge tab and the Driver's side door trim, but that doesn't confirm anything. Someone could have easily taken those parts from another car and I have been informed that body number 3813 would have been too early for a car with a chassis number in the 8,000 range, but what about the 2,000 range. Thoughts? The VIN discrepancy could explain a lot, but as i stated, I'm not going to claim this car as body number 3813 without further evidence. If more parts matched, then i might be swayed in that direction, but not yet. I peeled back the custom firewall piece that was placed over the original metal in hopes of finding a data tag, but it's long gone and only the screw holes and outline remain. SIGH!!!



The Passenger Door Trim number, which is even an earlier number.

 

RandyHicks

Senior Member
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Chris, body #2191 would be the correct Body Number for a Chassis Number in the 152XXX range that you sent me in a separate email. Body #3814 would be in the 157XXx range. The Vin tag on the frame rail is the real deal and you hit the home run with body #2191.
 
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christophe

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Ok, a little update. I'm not starting work on the car yet, but simply taking my time to diagnose, document, and research all aspects of the car. I am so swamped with other builds that i probably wont be able to start on this car until early next year anyway.

Here we have the driver's side suspension. Not sure if the reddish color on the shock is correct or not.



I'm a bit concerned about the welds on the lower control arm frame mounts. Actually, i am very concerned. Were the welds really this bad from the factory or??? All of them look this way.







Backside of front driver's mount-looks like someone piled cable under the mount and then welded it together.



The bushings are bad in the shock to kingpin mounting points. The bushings in the lower control arms are pretty much gone.



Spring limiters/spacers/wedges/garbage. I guess there weren't many options back in the day, but this car was still being driven to a country club in 2005, according to the sticker on the windshield.



Tie rods look newer



Passenger side. Yall will like this!!!

Check out the washers attached to the brake drum with silicon. This was done for "balancing" purposes i suppose.



More fun. Four spring spacers/limiters of two different varieties on this side.





I noticed that there is a cushion under the shock on the front, but not on the back. It is like this on both sides. Not sure if that is correct or not.



Lower control arm to kingpin bolts look newer. Note the red slash on the bolt.

 

DerekJ

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Christophe, I wouldn't drive that car if I was you. It needs some serious work. Look at the steering rods. I've never seen that before. Someone has attached the centre rod by drilling a new hole through the side rod about two inches from its correct location! I think its going to need a complete body off rebuild.
 
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christophe

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Derek, can you be a little more specific. I just looked over the attachment points of the tie rods and relay rod and they all appear to be bolted in the correct factory locations.
Trust me, this car will not be driven again, except on and off a trailer, until after it has had a full rebuild. I drove it around the block once, slowly i might add, and that was enough. The previous owner took me for a bit of a quick spirited ride when i purchased the car and if i had known how bad it was at the time, there is no way i would have ridden in the car. He informed me that he took it up to 70mph once, so i guess he is lucky nothing gave way while he was testing her limits.
 

HealeyRick

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Ok, a little update. I'm not starting work on the car yet, but simply taking my time to diagnose, document, and research all aspects of the car. I am so swamped with other builds that i probably wont be able to start on this car until early next year anyway.

Here we have the driver's side suspension. Not sure if the reddish color on the shock is correct or not.

Copper colored shocks generally indicated a factory rebuilt shock. Before you spend money on a rebuild, check to make sure they are properly filled with shock absorber oil. Moss Motors sells the recommended stuff. It's probably a good idea to invest in a factory workshop manual or the one produced by Bentley: https://www.bentleypublishers.com/resource.htm?subject=3#sub167 Even if you're experienced in wrenching on U.S. cars, there are enough idiosyncrasies on these cars to make a manual worthwhile. You can also poke around the Modified Healey website for more info on V8 cars: https://www.modifiedhealeys.org/
There is a Modified Healey Yahoo group that you can join: https://groups.yahoo.com/group/modifiedhealeys/ That email list is pretty quiet, but if you ask a question you will usually get an answer. And finally, there's the Modified Healey Registry run by Leroy and Sue Joppa who produce the newsletter "Wheelspinner" Here's how to sign up: https://www.modifiedhealeys.org/MembershipInfo/membershipinfo.htm
 
Last edited:

Bob_Spidell

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The lower A-arm mounts have been seriously violated (yes, the factory welds sometimes ain't pretty, but they weren't THAT bad). It looks like someone may have attempted to adjust camber and/or caster by bending the mounts. These will have to be replaced, but I'm not sure the chassis itself has the necessary structural integrity. I wouldn't drive this car any farther than to get it on and off a trailer in this condition.

The 'cushion' is a bumper for the shock and belongs there, though that one doesn't look like the correct type (may be because it's squished).
 

DerekJ

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Christophe, Ignore my comment re the steering rods. I had a bit of a senile moment there. Think the angle of the photo through me off. I concur with Bob re welds etc.
 
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christophe

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The good news is the frame is solid. The car was in a front end collision at some point and i can see where the tip of the right front frame rail shows evidence of someone re-welding the seams, but other than that, no real issues. The lower nose has also been repaired, but it looks like it was only damaged in the middle section. The upper nose and fenders appear to have never been damaged or repaired. The only small rust problem i found in the entire frame is on the passenger side front outrigger. It doesn't need to be replaced entirely, but the bottom cover will need to be cut off and replaced. I'll fab up a new one from some heavy steel.

Picture of the frame(right wheel well section)where i scraped the paint off. All of the flaky, bubbly looking stuff is not rust, but old paint that looks like it is peeling off from a brake fluid leak. Looks to me like the original black paint underneath of a layer of brown oxide or red oxide primer and then an additional top coat of black.



So, at least i have a solid foundation. Now, the tricky part will be welding the new lower a arm mounts in the correct places.

Someone, probably the owner that transformed the car into a v8 conversion, was not the best welder and did do some questionable work on the car. I knew the car had issues when i payed for it, but I'm not worried. I bought the car for under 20 and i know it is going to need about ten grand of metal, suspension, upgrades, and repairs to make the body and chassis 100 percent. Paint will be another couple of grand. I do my own bodywork these days and then pay a friend with a paint booth to spray the cars. Now, while i have dealt with many small block and big block chevy engines, i prefer small block fords. I've always been able to get more power out of the SBF than the SBC engines. However, since i already have the SBC in the car, I will probably stick with it, rebuild the bottom end, and upgrade the top end. A solid, actual, 300hp should make this car very fun to drive. The car will also need all new wiring, gauges, chrome, and Im going to change the interior color back to black. This will most likely end up being around a 40,000-45,000 venture when all things are said and done.

So, back to speaking about violating portions of the suspension and chassis. This piece was poorly cut off for exhaust clearance. I remember seeing it in one of the catalogs and it appeared to just hang out to the side of the frame rail a few inches. Would it have served a purpose for right hand drive cars?

 
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