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TR2/3/3A Timing Chain Tensioner - 1959 TR3

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mt10flyer

mt10flyer

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Not again. There is that rattling inside the timing chain cover and I know what it is. The tensioner is broken...again. Third time. What the heck. Anyone have a solution. This time, after I remove the bumper, front apron, radiator, fan and all the other little crap, should I just leave it off? What is everyone else doing about this poorly designed and flimsy part?
 
NutmegCT

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If you've verified all is installed correctly, I think the first step is for you to contact the supplier (again?) and report the problem.

What did they say the first time this happened with the part they supplied?

Tom
 
Geo Hahn

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I agree -- a chat with the vendor is in order as I cannot see any good reason why a correctly installed tensioner on a decent chain should fail prematurely.

I installed one from Moss about 2 years ago and certainly expect it to 'see me out'.

Was the prior failure just the classic break at the bend?

Tensioner.jpg
 
mrv8q

mrv8q

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Ooh, great pic! I'm going to follow this thread, as this is some PM I need to take care of, sooner than later...
 
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mt10flyer

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Purchased from Moss, but probably made somewhere west of Japan. It is just like the pic above. Breaks at the bend and then rattles around. One time the chain drove it through the cover...found a "new" one on Ebay.

This time it is approx 500 miles after complete engine rebuild. It would be foolish to follow the same path of replacement since that path has not led to success.
 
NutmegCT

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mt10flyer said:
Purchased from Moss, but probably made somewhere west of Japan. It is just like the pic above. Breaks at the bend and then rattles around. One time the chain drove it through the cover...found a "new" one on Ebay.

This time it is approx 500 miles after complete engine rebuild. It would be foolish to follow the same path of replacement since that path has not led to success.
Click to expand...

I'd think Moss would make good on that failure. Let us know what they say when you contact them.

Thanks.
Tom
 
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mt10flyer

mt10flyer

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The part is only $7.95 so that isn't very important. The hassle is what has to be removed to replace it...and then no guarantee the part will last any better than the first three. Am I the only one seeing this part fail on a regular basis?
 
NutmegCT

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You're right. $7.95 isn't that big a deal. But the reliability of the part *is* a big deal. Please let us know what Moss says when you tell them about the problems you've experienced.

Thanks.
Tom
 
TR3driver

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TS15372L is still (AFAIK) wearing it's original factory tensioner.

The engine in TS39781LO (which originally came from an earlier TR3 in the TS11xxx range) did break it's original tensioner with an estimated 200,000 miles on it ... the replacement from TRF was still working fine when the car got wrecked some 50,000 miles later.

So IMO not a poorly designed part; just that the replacements are not properly made. Where have I heard that before? My advice would be to buy one from TRF this time. They're even on sale at the moment.
 
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Hi - I am in Reno - just finished a four year body-off restoration on a 59 tr-3a - I looked forever for a tr-3 owner in reno - never found one - good luck - miles
 
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mt10flyer

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Hi Miles. You'll see me around. Red daily drive in pretty good shape. Is yours green. I saw it once coming down Mt. Rose highway.

Thanks Randall. Will try TRF part this time.
 
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I suggest that when you get it apart to look at the pin that holds thetensioner and make sure it is true and to also look and see if the bear plateis flat. I filled the last bear plate with weld and ground it flat where the tensionerhad cut a ditch because I felt the ditch was causing things to bind , but I guessyou can also purchase a plate new.

 
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mt10flyer

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Good idea on the plate. I'd have to pull the engine to do that if it is the case, however. I think I would have noticed if was not flat, but maybe not. The pin is new (I've replaced it each time as well).

One thing I note is that running without the tensioner, is no reduction in performance. I suspect maximum a couple of degrees of timing off during deceleration and I don't notice that. I suppose the purpose of the tensioner is to keep the chain and cogs from wearing when power load is removed and/or applied. Frankly, with what I have been having to do I am tempted to run without the tensioner and pay the piper later with new gears and chain. Does this sound insane?
 
DornTRoriginal

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Oh my.... So sad! I replaced my perfectly functioning chain tensioner during my recent rebuild thinking the years of wear would eventually catch up, I would be devastated if this happens to the new one. I hope this is an isolated issue and I encourage anyone knowing that this is a reoccurring problem will let everyone know. The manufacture, suppliers and the consumers would benefit from the information. Thanks!
 
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mt10flyer

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Heh. I've killed many a kitten.

Here is my experiment. I ordered tensioners from Moss and TRF. I will let you know if there is a detectable difference in the quality and/or supplier. If they are the same, I will run naked without the tensioner. If TRF's looks better, I'll give it a shot. For obvious reasons I won't run the Moss one (though many other transactions with them have been more than satisfactory - I have no axe to grind).

I will also report with links to pics if anything of importance is visually apparent.
 
CJD

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mt10flyer said:
One thing I note is that running without the tensioner, is no reduction in performance. I suspect maximum a couple of degrees of timing off during deceleration and I don't notice that. I suppose the purpose of the tensioner is to keep the chain and cogs from wearing when power load is removed and/or applied. Frankly, with what I have been having to do I am tempted to run without the tensioner and pay the piper later with new gears and chain. Does this sound insane?
Click to expand...

Tempting, but I wouldn't do it. A new chain is very snug, but over the miles it slowly stretches from pin wear and metal creep. The result is that eventually the chain will start rubbing through the cover. Now, it'll work to run without if you plan to change the chain every 10-15k miles. I guess that's a lot less frequently than you're doing now, though!?!
 
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mt10flyer

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Rubbing through the cover. Dang. I hadn't thought of that. When I have it apart I'll look at that possibility. That would be no good since covers are hard to find. I'll post here results.
 
TR3driver

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mt10flyer said:
One thing I note is that running without the tensioner, is no reduction in performance. I suspect maximum a couple of degrees of timing off during deceleration and I don't notice that. I suppose the purpose of the tensioner is to keep the chain and cogs from wearing when power load is removed and/or applied. Frankly, with what I have been having to do I am tempted to run without the tensioner and pay the piper later with new gears and chain. Does this sound insane?
Click to expand...
I've seen chain drives run at speed without a snubber. There is always at least one rpm where the slack part of the chain starts to whip around wildly. That can't be good for long life of either the chain or the components it is attached to.
 
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