Well....you buy a fuel pressure testing kit. I have three different ones for different applications. Adaptor for the rail, quick disconnect, hose, gauge, drain hose with valve. I don't know without looking what your pressure should be, but 38PSI is the last US car I checked.
Key off, remove the cap and depress the valve. Get any petrol? Crank it for just a moment and try again. Check valve should hold pressure to get a squirt. If nothing, pump is DOA.
You crank the engine for just a moment, door open, and let go the key. You should hear the pump running for oh, 10 seconds or so. Enough to overcome the lack of oil pressure signal or PIP signal to the ECM or relay.
In the shops, fuel pump working or not was always an easy audio test. Then it got more busy.
If, on the relay, you have power in, and cranking gives you power out, the pump or ground is the problem.
Some of these newer cars have the safety circuit on the ground side, so if no oil pressure or PIP signal, all the power in won't give you a run condition.
If you can access the plug to the tank, you'll have fuel level, fuel level ground, probably low fuel warning, and power in to the pump and ground out from the pump. Probe the power in while an assistant momentarily cranks it. If it shows power on then off like the output of the relay, then find the ground for the pump and probe that. If the crank test shows no power, pump is bad. If it shows power on and off like the input, you're reading through the pump and something is open in the grounding circuit.
Did you run out of petrol?
That will burn pumps out right now.
Seen too many of them.
Dave