Glass fuses

Maybe this is "old-hat" to many of you but thought I would pass it along. Recently I have been working on an electrical gremlin in my Series II. Of course it was intermittant so that compounded the problem. All the fuses in the fuse block showed continuity across them so I discarded a bad fuse as the culprit. Then I noticed that one particular fuse in the block would test OK so long as I probed the fuse itself and not the clips that hold it. I removed the fuse and by probing each end, it showed continuity. Further probing revealed by testing the metal ends on their sides did not always show continuity. A short time later I noted a slight looseness in one end then "bingo" it fell apart to reveal rust enclosed in the end, unnoticiable thur the glass. New fuse, problem solved.

That only took a couple of days.
Greg in Montana

Sometimes the solder that secures the actual fuse wire to the end caps will melt (More common on high amp fuses) causing similar problems. That can be frustrating to find, as the test probe inevitably masks the problem. Cheap trick to find Lucas fuses. When in a junkyard, check every series 2 or 3 XJ6. There are multiple fuse boxes, usually full of Lucas fuses.

I've seen this fuse problem on Fords. Mercurys, Jags, Triumphs, RVs, trucks and boats. Not a rare occurance on older vehicles, especially ones left outside most of their life.

When I check any fuse box, I take a bulb-type 12 volt test light and first check the hot prongs , then the fuse , then the other side of the fuse , then the opposite prongs. It's easy and quick and will eliminate a little frustration.