Trans crosshaft tapered pin again.

I have a new " hardened" taper pin from Moss to do the replacement. Has anyone used the hardened pin and can confirm that they will do the job or should I do the Grade 8 bolt replacement? Anyone had the upgraded pin in there for any length of time without any issues?

Normal driving the hardened pin should be fine but for extra strength I usually drill the shaft and fork to put in a grade 8 bolt.

Marv

Do you take short drives no further than you can walk back home? Or do you like longer drives? Shirley and I are currently in Portland,OR with our TR6. We expect this trip to log about 6,000 miles by the time we get home. I added a second taper pin a few years ago and am glad I did.

I did both the hardened pin and the added bolt -- really only takes a couple of minutes to drill and fit the bolt. Cheap & easy insurance.

Geo Hahn said:

Cheap & easy insurance.

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But as far as walking home, I consider driving without a clutch to be a relatively essential skill if one drives any car with a clutch beyond cell phone range. It has gotten me home quite a few times, not always in a LBC. On my Chevy, the clutch cable broke twice and the pedal once. Even a friend's Miata lost the clutch hydraulics once, although I wasn't driving it at the time.

I just don't want to ever again have to pull the interior apart and remove the gearbox, just to replace that darn taper pin!

BTW, the originals were pretty hard and still broke from time to time. I'm not convinced that the Moss "hardened" pin is any better than that, though no doubt it is better than the "old cheese" replacements that were being sold by some others.

Geo Hahn Does the bolt in your set up have a nut on the other side or did drill and tap that bolt in? 3/8 #8 bolt X ?

Randall. I once had 70 VW van that broke it's clutch cable so frequently that I got pretty good at driving with no clutch. I had to adjust my speed so I could catch the green lights and not have to stop.

karls59tr said:

Geo Hahn Does the bolt in your set up have a nut on the other side or did drill and tap that bolt in? 3/8 #8 bolt X ?

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Don't have a photo, but mine looks exactly like Geo's. In my case it was a grade 8 1/4" bolt (anything larger doesn't leave much meat in the shaft). The hole was drilled just a bit undersize to make the bolt shank a snug fit, and a longer bolt was chosen so the shaft would engage with the fork on the nut end; then the end of the bolt cut off so it wouldn't foul on the front cover.

Just be sure to have the fork installed the right way round when drilling for the bolt. For some odd reason, my shaft has two holes in it ...

Timing the lights is certainly better, if you can manage it. But if I had to stop, I shifted into neutral and turned off the engine. Once stopped, put it in 1st and crank the engine when the light turns green.

What he said re the bolt -- a longer bolt (shortened) gets the shank of the bolt inside the works rather than threads which can wear at things.

In my VW camper have had some practice with the clutchless driving, sometimes for 100s of miles. The other aspect that takes some practice (and a bit of courage the first time) is shifting up & down with no clutch. Once you hit that sweet spot and the stick slips into gear it feels like magic.

TR3driver said:

But as far as walking home, I consider driving without a clutch to be a relatively essential skill if one drives any car with a clutch beyond cell phone range. It has gotten me home quite a few times, not always in a LBC.

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Just last week I drove my TR6 from Provost, AB to Calgary, AB. Had a clutch master failure while in Provost.