TR2/3/3A Source for Brake Pipe 56 TR3

Looking for brake pipe that goes from master cylinder to front connection for my 56 TR3. Believe the part number is 108221 (for Lockheed system, LHD). I've searched my usual sources online and can't find a listing. Anyone able to suggest a source for this pipe with the fittings attached? Cheers, Mike

Hi, here is a supplier of the separate parts needed.

https://store.fedhillusa.com/

Not sure about a complete pre-flared single line unless you buy the entire kit from Moss # 588-608 or similar. The Lockheed complete kit I bought from Moss a few years ago was this manufacturer, Automec...

https://www.mamut.net/automec_uk/

Good luck!!

Thanks ... will check them out. Cheers, Mike

Try www.classictube.com Kind of expensive though.

Hi, sure, happy to help! I followed your Tr3 link and thought I would pass on this info since I noticed that wonderful Lockheed master cylinder pic.

When I bled my Lockheed system, the only way I could bleed the clutch and get it to work was to back-bleed it. I used a garden-type pressure sprayer to push fluid from the slave cylinder up into the master. I guess a power bleeder or similar might work but I couldn't get the pedal pump method to work at all, at least on the clutch side, really frustrating at the time. I don't remember having a problem with the brake side.

Also, if you have the MC filler cap mounted towards the front, a little fountain of brake fluid spurts directly up into it. If mounted towards the back, it tends to leak a little less. I think there is even a service bulletin for this.

Thanks for the additional link Keith. Moss UK just confirmed that it does not offer the pipe alone, only as part of kit. TRF shows as NLS.

Tim, wonder if bleeding or priming the master cylinder on the bench before installation would help? I had heard of reversing the top to move the cap and plan to do that. Thanks.

Cheers, Mike

HI Mike, I think the problem was that the way the clutch tubing is routed, it rises a few inches above the connection to the MC. I figured the pedal method just couldn't quite get enough draw on the fluid to get the air out of that top loop of piping. Really just a guess on my part though...

I just remember spending hours on it using the pedal pump method but then using the pressure sprayer and get a great pedal action in minutes. Just thought I would pass along my experience if you happen to run into the same issue...

Greatly appreciate the advice.

Ordered new clevis pins from Moss UK and they don't look correct. The holes in the forks are different sizes ... one hole is larger than the other and both are completely round. It looks like the clevis pin should be stepped. The supplied pins are also about twice as long as needed. Nearly 15 pounds shipping for two pins that don't fit! Can anyone confirm what the pins look like and how long they are? Cheers, Mike

Almost sounds like you have the later "Girling" clevis. Is that a possibility? I can't come up with a good photo at the moment, but the Girling clevis has a noticeably larger hole on one side (which is actually threaded inside, though the threads are hard to see). The pin screws in and gets locked with a cotter pin.

Did some more checking on these push rods. I have two different styles. The ones installed and the later Girling style as well. Here are a couple of pics of what I have. The Girling ones with the thread are about .43 inch diameter at large hole and .29 at the other side. The ones I have installed have two smooth holes ... the larger is about .37 and the smaller is about .325. Both push rods installed have very close to the same diameter holes and although there may be some minimal wear, they are all very close to totally round. Any other ideas? Anyone have same Lockheed cylinder that might be able to confirm what I have is correct? Cheers, Mike