TR2/3/3A Paint problems TR3

Gentlemen - I started a topic over in Restoration, about some paint problems on my 1959 TR3.

The Paint Problem!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
Tom

I'm affraid, with a bonding problem like that, the only way is to remove it (strippers or sanding) and reapply new primer and paint. Anything that is laid over the top now will only accelerate the pealing underneath.

Sorry for the bad news...

John

I agree,no easy solution.In fact even the strip/reprime/repaint is probably optomistic.More likely strip to bare metal, then repair or redo metal work. I suspect the bodo is thick in these areas.Then epoxy or some direct to metal primer,then body filler,another coat of epoxy,then some glaze if needed ,then some high build primer,probably minimum two coats,then block to perfection,shoot the color and then clear if bc/cc,then final sand and buff.
Not much fun,and potentially very expensive.
Tom

Unless of course you want to go with another cheap paint job. I had One Day Paint (a CA chain similar to MAACO) strip my TR3 to bare metal, sand, prime and paint. Including the black racing stripe; painting under the hood, trunk, vent lid and inside the front apron; and a 5 year warranty (but no bodywork), the bill came to about $1800.

There are some paint flaws visible if you look closely, and the usual rash of small dings in various places. But I would still rate it better than a "ten footer" (if I would wash & wax it once in awhile). Suits me fine for a daily driver.

Oh yeah, I removed probably 70% of the chrome before taking it to them. The rest they masked and painted around.

Don't add more to what looks to be too much paint on there now. You have to remove layers before adding any more or the thinner may start to do it for you with cracks worse than these.

Thanks gents.

Say, any idea how a painter would handle bondo after the stripping? Is it just somoething you leave, prime, then spray over?

Or does the bondo have to come out and be replaced?

(The last 12 months have sure brought some unpleasant surprises, car and health-wise; it's time for some good news!)

Tom

Any good paint shop would recommend stripping down to bare metal and redo the bodywork especially if they are going to warranty the paint job. You could save some money by getting an angle grinder with a SS wire wheel and stip the car down to bare metal yourself then carry it to a body shop, But I am guessing you will be surprised at what will have to be done, I would guess all panels will need work. I stripped my TR6 with the angle grinder and SS wire wheels in about 3 days and that was working 3 hours each day after work and it wont warp the panels, it will eat paint off and turn bondo into dust in a hurry, just wear a good respirator and safety glasses and ear plugs,. I would say there are more places that have the same issue just maybe not apparent yet

if you are not willing to paint the whole car I would live with it as is, because you will get the well if I do that area might as well do that area and before you know it you will have all the paint off the car
get estimates first before you touch anything

Hondo

There is not necessarily bondo underneath causing your problem. Cracking like that can happen on a decent metal surface from using the wrong primer, improper surface prep, not using any primer, improper thinning, or adding too many coats. Unfortunately, all these problems still require all the faulty paint to come off. And, of course, there may be bondo underneath. Paint is like a box of chocolates...you never know what you're going to get!?!

You can likely tell the condition of the apron by reaching behind and feeling for a dent that was filled. If there is bondo, I would recommend removing it. Filler is porous, so there may be something that it absorbed that caused the bonding problem.

John