what is this switch

I have a switch in my 86 XJ6 on my center concel that seems to have no useful function.
It is located directly above the sunroof switch, and inbetween the rear window switches.
If anyone knows what this switch does I'd be most thankful.

thats the rear window lockout switch. engaging it locks the rear windows from the passengers (kids)
in the rear. reengaging it allows the rear windows to be operated from the passengers in the rear. any other series 3 jag questions? feel free to ask.

Thanks XJRPILOT:
Sorry about the stupid user name change: I had some trouble with my long name and I tried to shorten it while keeping the same flair.
A typest I am not and I ended up whith one that does not make much sence.
Basil is working on it.
You chalenged me with more questions, So here it is. Do I nead to replace my window switches as they become falty or do I need to clean them.
If I need to replace them where do I get OEM replacements or somthing beter.

thats an easy one, i remove and clean mine.
it sure beats 15bucks apiece for them. its simple to do:
using a small flat screwdriver, carefully insert it about a few hair lengths away midpoint between the rocker switch and the body(next to the pivot nibs). pry off the switch but be careful not to lose the springs. (i do mine over a sheet on the dining room table).
put the springs back in the hole on the plastic nibby and then on the rocker switch and set aside.
if you look inside the switch you will see two copper "see/saws". remember how they fit. only one way. its a no brainer. notice the little dimples on the underside? thats the contact point. thats where most of your corrosion is. clean the metal with rubbing alchohol, then sand lightly
with emery paper or 500grit sandpaper. make the "see/saws" shine. after cleaning the 'seesaws", turn your attention to the copper contacts that the see/saws contact with when they
rock back and forth. clean them well. i use a dremel with a light abrasive tip. you dont want to grind them down though( just a dremel happy person warning!!)
after all is clean, reassemble.
last, clean the pins in the same manner.
getting the rocker back on is a bit of a challenge, patience is the answer. remember that the switchs should all be installed the same way.
(if the window went down when you pushed the switch down, and now it goes up, just just remove the switch, rotate and reinsert. your switchs will be like new. i got 4 switchs from a parts car and i keep them as spares. you can figure out after reconditioning 4 switchs, that you saved yourself 60 bucks.
anything else i can help you with, let me know.
as with all/most british cars inoperable electrics are usually a bad ground or bad contact. (corrosion). lucas components are pretty reliable actually.

i forgot to mention, that the 86 xj(series three)
you have is one of the most dependable series three jags ever built. build quality on early series 3 and late series 2 were quite sad.(its a british leyland thing for the series 2).
i can hear some guys yelling about that statement, but its true. in the early 80's
the jaguar factory build quality at browns lane was a little better than russian built quality.
then peter egan took over. the tide turned.
jaguar then started to build some of its finest xj's.
my series three (87) was the last year to use the xk engine. in 1988 they went to the aj6 engine.
totally different car. the xk engine if properly
cared for will yield 150-200,000 miles before needing a rebuild. a friend of mine has a 1986 xj with 230,000 miles. still runs great. the thing that kills these cars(as most cars) most are lack of maintenance and rust.
this is great forum and you can get lots of questions answered here. lots of knowledgable folks here. stick with us. we all have something thing in common, namely our love for british cars. i wish more folks would post instead of lurking. basil has a great forum going.

Hello folks, I'm new to this forum as well as being new to Jaguar ownership. I bought a 1990 XJ6 Sovereign off a dealer the same day it was traded in. It looks great with only 51K miles, I'm hoping it will run for quite a while yet. I don't have any helpful info. to share except to say I enjoy reading the different postings on this forum.
I live in Auburn, In. and the annual Kruse antique/classic car auction is coming to town this weekend. I hope to see a few "Cats" in the crowd. I have seen a '88 XJS in great shape for sale the other day by the ACD museum.

Hi Larry, welcome to the forum. As my friend Mr Pilot mentioned above, this is a good place with good people.

Whilst on the subject of Series IIIs, I have found a brochure for the UK market cars, circa 1987. Takes me back.

hello larry,
welcome to the forum. if i can be of any help just post. if i cant answer it hopefully someone can.

Thanks XJRPILOT for the tips.
I would like to repay you with ant advice that I can give. My area of expertise is in the modern car mfg. area, and dyno tuning and performance.
I don't know if you have a need for this kind of stuff but I would like to help. Oh, bythe way I am good at making stuff mostly metal) so if you could use direction or ideas let me know.

If you add a little corrosion inhibing, high dielectric grease to the contacts, you won't have to clean them quite so frequently. Krytox is a good brand.
Herman

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by XJRpilot:
thats an easy one, i remove and clean mine.
it sure beats 15bucks apiece for them. its simple to do:
using a small flat screwdriver, carefully insert it about a few hair lengths away midpoint between the rocker switch and the body(next to the pivot nibs). pry off the switch but be careful not to lose the springs. (i do mine over a sheet on the dining room table).
put the springs back in the hole on the plastic nibby and then on the rocker switch and set aside.
if you look inside the switch you will see two copper "see/saws". remember how they fit. only one way. its a no brainer. notice the little dimples on the underside? thats the contact point. thats where most of your corrosion is. clean the metal with rubbing alchohol, then sand lightly
with emery paper or 500grit sandpaper. make the "see/saws" shine. after cleaning the 'seesaws", turn your attention to the copper contacts that the see/saws contact with when they
rock back and forth. clean them well. i use a dremel with a light abrasive tip. you dont want to grind them down though( just a dremel happy person warning!!)
after all is clean, reassemble.
last, clean the pins in the same manner.
getting the rocker back on is a bit of a challenge, patience is the answer. remember that the switchs should all be installed the same way.
(if the window went down when you pushed the switch down, and now it goes up, just just remove the switch, rotate and reinsert. your switchs will be like new. i got 4 switchs from a parts car and i keep them as spares. you can figure out after reconditioning 4 switchs, that you saved yourself 60 bucks.
anything else i can help you with, let me know.
as with all/most british cars inoperable electrics are usually a bad ground or bad contact. (corrosion). lucas components are pretty reliable actually.<hr></blockquote>