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TR2/3/3A TR3A oil by-pass to cylinder head

sking

Member
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recent head re-fit of 3A head to older block has caused blocked oil passage from block to head. is there any reason why i can't run an oil line direct from block oil gallery plug to plug at rear of head oil gallery ?
any know what i'm talking about ?
 

Alan_Myers

Luke Skywalker
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Hi,

Yes, I know what you are talking about and it was a common modification a few years ago. You could get oil feed kits kits from the big vendors and quite a few people did. Overall, it seemed most just found their cars burning more oil as a result. Too much oil in the valve train. Perhaps some others here have used the kits and can give more info. I've not used the oil feed and personally, I think you'd be better to try to fix the problem properly rather than rigging something that might or might not do the job.

By the way, I seem to recall the oil bypass was more useful and effective on the 6 cylinder engines, but I am not really sure of this.

Alan
 

vrod

Senior Member
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Your oil once the external feed is conected should return via the pushrod passages, I have a tr250 inline six and have the external feed and yes it does use oil but I think its from either not having valve seals or not having baffles in my valve cover (oil is misting out the breather into the carbs) I'm thinking of adding the oil seperator that Richard Good sells. The inline six suffers from not getting enough oil to the rear valve parts as it is fed up the front of the engine. However there are some on the other side of the pond that beleive one is only starving the crankshaft when using the external feed. If I were you, I'd add the oil feed, since its the only way your going to lube the top of your engine.
 
OP
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sking

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alan
i didn't bother going into the whole story in my first note, just looking for someone intersested.
the engine was re-build in 1974 (i've had the car since 1973). had to replace the head gasket a few times as it was always blowing out between 2&3, the last time being about 6 years ago. after competing the job i found that there didn't seem to be much oil in the rockers and so we ran a lead off the oil pressure guage pipe directly to the back off the head gallery. this appears to have fixed the problem and there is plenty of oil up top. the oil guage has always seemed to show low pressure although the car performs really well. after changing the oil and filter last week for a run, i noticed it was even lower, so turned the pressure up a bit. when i got back, i had oil leaking everywhere. checked where the banjo is bolted to the front stud of the filter housing and found that in 1974 they had put the wrong stud in, it was solid with no chanel for the oil to pass to the banjo. cut a groove through the threads, reconnected it direct to the guage (blocked the pipe to the head) and sent the dial straight to the max at 2000 revs.
consequently, i am hoping by running direct between the oil galleries, i can get an acurate reading from my guage as i beleive that by connecting from the guage line, the pressure is bleeding off to the head faster than it is getting to the guage. i am considering putting a flow adjuster in the gallery to gallery line.
i am trying to avoid having the head off again as it has been running so well for the last few years and never overheats even in our hot summers (australia) and basically "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"

steve
 

prb51

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No experience but I've read on other LBC sites that the direct line to the head is effective on the 6 cylinders Tr's but caused some problems on the 4's. Oil starvation on the lower end and high oil consumption. Check around the club sites - I believe I saw a tech posting on a Florida Triumph Club site to this effect.
 

Geo Hahn

Yoda
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[ QUOTE ]
...after competing the job i found that there didn't seem to be much oil in the rockers...

[/ QUOTE ]

FWIW -- I don't think there is a lot of oil going to the rockers in the best of times... more of dribble & ooze than blast or squirt.

Ditto the comments on the oil feed on the 4 cylinders, haven't used it but have heard the problems with too much oil up there. Would also seem to me that sending lots more oil to the rockers might deprive somewhere else more needy.
 

sp53

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I guess I do not understand the problem because I thought the blocks were the same from about 1956 right into tr3A and even through that. It is my understanding you can get too much oil up top and cause puddling. However, I did hear that on old MGTD’s the back lifters and push rods had an oil starvation problem. Back to tr my tr3 just has that one hole in the last rocker pedestal and the oil moves up from that and just kinda trickles. The head gasket could be a lot of stuff: warped head or block, cracked head or block, and one of the sleeves might be too low and not sealing up. I would check to make sure that the sleeves stick up above the block, maybe the figure eight gaskets are not pushing things up high enough and after the newness of the head gasket wears down, the combustion pressure blows by. But it does not sound to me like an oil problem.
Regards George
 
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sking

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anyone tried the oil by-pass tube with a pressure/flow regulator so you can adjust the flow for the optimum amount of oil to the rockers ?
seems to me that this would be an advantage especially with older engines.
steve
 

DUBB

Freshman Member
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I HAD THIS PROBLEM . THIS IS WHAT I DID. REMOVED ROCKERS.LOCATE OIL FEED HOLE IN HEAD. TAKE A LONG DRILL BIT 1/8 DIA ABOUT 8 TO 10 LONG AND USING GREASE ON TH BIT CAREFULLY DRIL INTO THE OIL SUPPLY HOLE CLEARING BIT REGUARLLY AND RE GREASE. YOU WILL FEEL THE BIT GO THROUGH THE BOLCKAGE OR BEARING AND STOP IMMEDIATELY.. NOW WITH ROCKERS STILL OFF CRANK ENGINE UNTIL OIL COMES OUT AND THIS WILL CLEAR MOST OF THE DRILL SWARF OUT. NOW REPLACE ROCKERS AN DRESET CLEARANCES AND YOU HAVE OIL
 
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sking

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i thought about this.....but didn't have the balls to try it.
i should have the new by pass tube and regulator in place within the next 24 hours and if it dosn't work, then i'll give it a try.

i'll post the results asap.
steve
 
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sking

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just finished installing the new by-pass hose and must admit, it works a treat.
had a local hydralics outlet assemble two banjo unions, a brass flow cock and steel encased flexible hose. could not buy a hollow bolt for the lower oil gallery so drilled out an off the shelf bolt.
will run it for a while tomorrow with the rocker cover off and play with the flow control.
have enclosed a couple of pictures.
001 of flow valve mounted to block oil gallery (just tucks under coil) and 002 of conection to rear of head.
appologies for quality, probably to close.
comments welcome.
steve
 

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OP
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sking

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fitted the new by-pass oil line this evening and must admit, it seems to work really well.
had a local hydralics out let knock it up from 2 banjo unions, a brass screw type flow valve and 450mm of steel shrouded flexable hose.
tomorrow i will run it for a while with the rocker cover off an play with the flow control valve to find the optimum flow rate.
it would appear that it should do me until the next time i have to remove the head which hopfully won't be for another eight years.
attached a shot of the valve attached to the lower gallery via the banjo, tucked just under the coil.
steve
 

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