Steering wheel removal issues

Hey everyone!

Decided to finally do the toe-in on the Midget after all the suspension work, and sure enough the steering wheel was way off center when I finally got everything dialed in properly (did the 1/2 lock-to-lock trick to find true center on the rack).

When I went to remove the steering wheel to realign it... well...it doesn't want to come off. I've since removed the 6(?) bolts and the outer part of the wheel so it's just a hub, and attempted to use a jaw puller on it but I'm not having any luck getting it to budge.

Anyone out there have any tips/tricks for pulling it off the splines? I was thinking a slide hammer but I'm really nervous about damaging it as it's a collapsible column...

As always, thanks for the help!

Loosen the nut but don't remove it all the way. If you don't have the right puller, tension the wheel side to side as you pull toward you (alternate pulling the wheel harder on one side then the other). It will take all the strength you have, but it will come off. It will probably give up suddenly, so make sure you have more than a couple threads securing the nut or it could cost you a couple teeth. :hammer:

Good call on securing the nut, been there done that!

I acquired a spare column with wheel attached from a '68 that was being parted out. I finally got around to attempting to remove the nut and separate the wheel from the column after it sat in the back of my garage for many years. 2 weeks plus of daily applications on PB Blaster as the column sat upright before I even tried to remove the steering wheel nut. Now that the nut was off another week or so of PB Blaster on the exposed threads and splines. I supported to column and placed it in a vice. A 6" 3/8 extension bar, small socket on the end placed directly in the middle of the shaft so you don't mushroom the top of the shaft and a 5 lb sledge as a persuader took only one to two taps to get the wheel to separate from the column.

In your case do are Gerard suggests and put the nut back on to protect the threads on the column. I agree on the losing some teeth with the wheel coming off. When it comes it comes off quickly. Worst case scenario, pull the column. It's only a pinch bolt, column support bolts hoding this thing to the rack. Replace the metal nylock on the pinch bolt, DO NOT REUSE if you go that route.

It can certainly take more force than you think. My Bugeye's wheel came off easily, but the one on the MGB took quite a bit of effort.

There is also a video on u Tube some place that shows you how to do it.

It was the guy up north that did so many good ones.

Barney Gaylord??? MGA GuRu???

Kurt.

Here is a John Twist video about steering wheel removal.

https://www.youtube.com/user/Universitymotorsltd#p/search/0/lwf2BDC5DMo

I always put my kness underneith and pushed up w/ those. I use the air hammer w/ pointed bit dead center in the shaft. Pops right up.

I have a spridget wheel puller. I took a piece of flat plate and drilled the 6 holes in it. I remove the wheel and use the 6 bolts from the wheel to pull the hub off the splined shaft.

Just an update...bit the bullet and swung over to Harbor Fright (thankfully we have a local one nearby) and bought a steering wheel puller. Wheel came right off, and there was no threat of damage to my face. Had to use it again when the horn didn't work after the re-install. For $30, I'm calling it a good investment

As always, thanks for all the advice.

Always a good time when you get to add a new tool to the box.