Powder coat or eurythane [sp?]

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Trevor Triumph

Jedi Knight

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• Aug 10, 2011

• #1

I'm replacing the twelve year old suspension bushings. While the car is in pieces I thought I would repaint the suspension parts. I used body paint years ago and the suspension is looking a bit tatty. Powder coat or the expensive eurythane. Any special preparation for that kind of paint?

Trevor

 

rikiwho123

Senior Member

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• Aug 11, 2011

• #2

your talking about the suspension a place that is always going to get dirty ; go to Eastwood and see what tough paints they have ; i used the black rust-o 9.00 a quart and it holds up fine ; good luck.

 

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tomgt6

Jedi Warrior

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• Aug 11, 2011

• #3

I would paint just because when powder coat starts to flake off it is hard to match or clean up.

 

DNK

Great Pumpkin

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• Aug 11, 2011

• #4

Match???
Who can see the difference when it it dirty.
PC keeps things rust free, mostly.
And it cleans fairly easy too.

 

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tdskip

Yoda

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• Aug 11, 2011

• #5

I used to powder coat everything but when dealing with springs and the a-arms I've found they can get scratched through the powder coating on assembly, which kinda defeats the purpose.

 

Darrell_Walker

Jedi Knight

Silver

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• Aug 11, 2011

• #6

When I redid my 4A the last time I had everything powder coated, and it still looks great. One big advantage is that it gets a nice blasting as part of the process (I don't have the equipment to do that).

When I rebuilt the suspension on the TR8, I considered power coating, but decided against the expense. I used Hammerite paint (now owned by Rustoleum), and was very happy with the results. I've used it on other things in the past and have found it quite durable. If you go that way, make sure to read the directions, you need to recoat within an hour, or wait 7-10 days. So plan your painting schedule with that in mind.

 

DNK

Great Pumpkin

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• Aug 11, 2011

• #7

You scratch the PC off ,Tom.
Must be a thin PC job.
My guys have hard enough time trying to sand blast it if I make a mistake

 

Scott_Hower

Luke Skywalker

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• Aug 11, 2011

• #8

+1 for powder.

I found a local industrial powdercoater who blasts my stuff and coats it for less than I'd pay to paint it. He uses a polyester chassis satin black - stuff is tough as nails. Had most of the tins/shrouds/brackets done for the Spitfire for $75.

I used to use POR15, but I don't like the high gloss look. Been a while, maybe they have a satin finish. Plus, it always ended up on me, the floor, the cat ...

 

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tr8todd

Jedi Knight

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• Aug 11, 2011

• #9

Hammerite is great for suspension bits. The Rust-o-leum hammered finish chips off. Not the same stuff. POR15 would be my second choice.

 

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tomgt6

Jedi Warrior

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• Aug 12, 2011

• #10

I agree that PC would be the way to go, it is just with springs they flex and are more likely going to cause cracks in the PC and at some point peel away. Once PC peels away it gets hard to blend in paint to fix it.

 

DNK

Great Pumpkin

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• Aug 12, 2011

• #11

TRu Dat,just take em off and redo them every couple of years :laugh:

 

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t_lay

Freshman Member

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• Aug 12, 2011

• #12

If it's pretty much a garage queen, powder coating looks very nice. If you drive it hard - rustoleum satin (out of the can, not the spray). It's tough as nails, and if you scratch it, just touch it up. $10.00 will do the suspension - front & rear. I have a rock crawler jeep - the powder coated bits have not held up to both weather and general abuse (more than a TR would ever see). What's worse is that once scratched, rust builds up under the coating until it flakes off in big chunks. Other than that POR 15 - but it doesn't hold up as well to UV - so it needs a top coat while it's still tacky.

 

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lbcs_r_fun

Jedi Hopeful

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• Aug 12, 2011

• #13

tomgt6 said:

I would paint just because when powder coat starts to flake off it is hard to match or clean up.

Click to expand...

Tom: Powder Coating doesn't/shouldn't flake off if prepped and applied correctly!

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Willie_P

Jedi Hopeful

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• Aug 14, 2011

• #14

powder coat requires a lot of removal of material to get proper interference fit on machined surfaces etc.

I used a Marine grade etching paint, like POR 15. the only negative is excessive exposure to sunlight (UV rays) can turn it gray (some say). but since this is under the car, that likely won't happen.

it goes on very thin and can be brushed and looks smooth when it dries.

 

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tdskip

Yoda

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• Aug 14, 2011

• #15

lbcs_r_fun said:

Tom: Powder Coating doesn't/shouldn't flake off if prepped and applied correctly!

T

Click to expand...

Agree - that was poorly worded. When it gets scratched. Sounds like I need to consider another vendor on for my powder coating...

 

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mtlman8

Jedi Trainee

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• Aug 14, 2011

• #16

Trever, If you decide to powder coat I highly recommend Gorilla industrial coating in Tempe. I use them all the time.

 

Scott_Hower

Luke Skywalker

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• Aug 15, 2011

• #17

Willie_P said:

powder coat requires a lot of removal of material to get proper interference fit on machined surfaces etc.

Click to expand...

Every shop I've ever used is well aware of this fact; they use hi-temp plugs and/or tape to mask these surfaces.

 

DNK

Great Pumpkin

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• Aug 15, 2011

• #18

A good shop will do this

 

OP

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Trevor Triumph

Jedi Knight

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• Aug 17, 2011

• #19

Thanks for the information. I think I'll go with the powder coat. Taking the suspension apart has been time consuming. I forgot about the interference of the exhaust on the rear a arm. Oh well there is time.

thanks again.