Stop Light Switch

Can the switch be rebuilt?

Do you mean the type mounted to the pedal box?

you can buy a new one fairly cheap at Autozone or Napa and such (much cheaper than Moss or VB)

Yes - I managed to get it apart and just solid rust in there - I will have to get a new one.

Good luck with the new switch. I purchased a new switch and it came as seen in the photo. The reason the wire broke is because of the shortcut taken during manufacturing. Notice the original switch is split so one side holds the wire insulation and the other side is where the wire is soldered. I had the chance to check 7 new switches from different sources and they all had the same shortcut taken. In fact they were all the same switch.

So I carefully removed the solder and wires. Then cut the connector with a hobby saw. Then put the wires back like the originals.

Next I found the mounting post was loose. To correct that I ended up taking the switch apart so I could crush the stud mount like it should have been in the first place. It was them that I saw the very thin brass or copper contact disk. I then found I was right to be concerned and that there is a solution for that, https://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/Other_Subjects/Electrical/General/Brake_Light_Relay.pdf

So it was time to install the switch. That is when I found that the new switch could not be adjusted so the pedal position was even close to the clutch pedal and still have the brake lights work in the correct pedal travel. Back to check that batch of new switches and they were all the same.

The happy ending came when I found a used original switch that works, fits, and is assembled correctly.

I have to agree with Tom. Some of the new, replacement switches for these cars are very low-quality.
Maybe you'll get lucky, but the two new ones I bought were not very good.
Like Tom, I eventually found a used one and cleaned it up.

recordsj said:

you can buy a new one fairly cheap at Autozone or Napa and such (much cheaper than Moss or VB)

Click to expand...

Recordsj do you happen to have a part number or cross reference for one of these switches that i can buy at napa or autozone?

I am really getting tired of changing brake light switches every stinkin year....


m

Since I added a relay I haven't had to replace my switch.
Part of the problem is the switch can't handle the current feeding the lights, wears them out early.

SilentUnicorn said:

recordsj said:

you can buy a new one fairly cheap at Autozone or Napa and such (much cheaper than Moss or VB)

Click to expand...

Recordsj do you happen to have a part number or cross reference for one of these switches that i can buy at napa or autozone?

I am really getting tired of changing brake light switches every stinkin year....


m

Click to expand...

Sorry, don't have the p/n or cross reference. Just go to Autozone's website, enter in your car info and it will come up with the stop switch that will work with your car. Unfortunately I haven't had much luck with their switches either....

Is there a reason that you cannot use a generic brake light switch on a Spridget pedal box? I'm thinking specifically of part 51590 from BP Northwest. I've had good luck with those switches. You could crimp female spade lugs on the leads that were soldered to your old switch to use it. You can buy a lot of the 51590 switches for the price of a genuine Lucas switch.

I like the idea of the relay that RickB mentioned.

Did'nt Frank(sprite nut)Clarici always buy stop light switches from Home Depot or such place cheap. Seems like he had found a switch that wasn't made for a spridget but could easily be adapted.

Kurt.

I think the main problem is room. The factory one fits and others do not. I had to install a longer brake pedal pin so that it sticks out another 1/2" or so toward the passenger side so that it can press down on a longer switch. Hope that makes sense.

dklawson said:

Is there a reason that you cannot use a generic brake light switch on a Spridget pedal box? I'm thinking specifically of part 51590 from BP Northwest. I've had good luck with those switches. You could crimp female spade lugs on the leads that were soldered to your old switch to use it. You can buy a lot of the 51590 switches for the price of a genuine Lucas switch.

I like the idea of the relay that RickB mentioned.

Click to expand...

I would be willing to try that switch, if they didn't want 15.55 to ship it.

m

You might try one of ~THESE~

I bought for my "new" racer but haven't installed it yet.

This is a pull-type switch and would be fitted inside the car; not in the regular place.

SilentUnicorn said:

I would be willing to try that switch, if they didn't want 15.55 to ship it.

Click to expand...

The BP Northwest switch is pretty short before you add the spade lug wires. At one point I bought 2 of them while ordering other parts. I used one on the Spitfire brakes and thought I'd eventually use the other on the Mini. Instead, I used the second switch as a courtesy door light switch on the Spitfire. (The OEM Spitfire courtesy switch light is NLA and isn't wired the way as on "normal" cars). The brake light switch was functionally correct so I made an adapter/mounting plate for it.

The next time I order from BP Northwest I will order more. At that price... why not? Fortunately though, my cars are all running well these days and I have not needed to order parts!

I purchased the switch you show, maybe I donot understand how it is suppose to work but it got hot and started smoking, I touched the spring and burnt myself good. I have a 65 positive ground, I ran two wires from the wires connected to the spade connectors on the origional 3 way hydraulic switch (removed from the switch). If you put those two wires together you have or I have brake lights. I ran those wires to this little switch which I mounted on the pedal box and attached the spring to the back side of the brake pedal. When you push on the pedal that pulls the plunger out of the switch and you should have brake lights, according to my thoughts. Where did I go wrong, no lights and severly burnt fingers????? Is the car grounding it out?Why would the switch care?

Mark

I'm guessing you wired positive to one side and picked up a ground on the other? If that's not the case, then you have a short somewhere. The switch simply interrupts the continuity of the power circuit (green wire).

I have decided that the spring must act as a ground in a normal set up so I covered the spring with a nondegradable plastic tube {fuel line for radio controlled airplanes) and hooked it up to the brake pedal. I now have brake lights along with burnt fingers. I have contacted the supplier to possibly give me any other information regarding this switch.

Mark