Healey Construction?

Hello all!

I have a few questions regarding Healey materials of construction ('54 BN1). Dad's '54 is still in Illinois, but I will be picking it up in spring and starting the restoration.

1) What body parts/pannels are made of aluminum?

2) What body parts/pannels are made of steel?

3) Is the frame all steel?

4) Should I take a welding course, and if so, what should I be looking for in a beginning course?

I am planning on doing most of the work myself and have learned over the years that we are all far more capable than we realize when our resolve is strong and we apply patience and a willingness to learn.

Thanks All!

AH

Dad's,

You are taking on a big project. Try to learn all that you can before starting anything that you can't reverse.

In general, all of the body panels are steel except the front & rear shrouds which are aluminum. However there are exceptions on the early Hundreds. Some had aluminum bonnets Hoods) & boots (trunks) & a few had aluminum wings (fenders) You really need to get a good restoration book such as "Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000 Restoration Guide" by Gary Anderson & Roger Moment. There are many subtle differences between the early models which were incorporated into the production runs. The guide will help sort things out.

The frame is all steel. It is really a semi uni-body arrangement, not just a frame.

If you are going to tackle welding, a wire feed welder (MIG) is probably best for the steel parts. You will also need to learn one of the inert gas welding techniques such as TIG for aluminum. Nearly all body & frame panels & repair panels are available as new parts from Kilmartin Sheetmetal in Australia. There are several distributors such as "Moss Motors" & "British car specialists". You will need a large work space if you take the body apart.

Here is a good web site to guide you through the whole restoration process.
https://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/

I would expect the project to take several years if you do it yourself. Here is another web site which is frequented by some of the leading Healey restorers, vendors, & owners. The archives are searchable & can answer a lot of your questions. If you wish to join this list, you can get direct answers to your questions from those who have "been there & done that"

https://www.team.net/archive/healeys

Good luck,
D

Dave,
Thanks for the reply! I know that at least the bonnet is aluminum. I'm not sure about the boot and fenders.

I have a large area to work in and the patience to handle the formidable process. Thanks for the links and the tips. I was already planning on getting the book you mentioned and have joined my local chapter of AHCA.

The car has been garaged (poorly) since around '60 and is completely original. I guess I really wont know what I'm in for until I get started.

I have actually been contemplating trying to start the engine, I believe it turns freely. Wonder if it will run after all these years? Any sugestions of dos and don'ts? Was planning on changing the oil and lubricating the cylinders though the spark plug holes. Should I pull the valve cover and check the valves or do anything with the carbs first?

Thanks and Best Regards!
AH

Sure - go ahead & give it a try.

A few things to do first;

Oil in the cylinders is ok.

Fresh oil in the crankcase & transmission. top up coolant & check for leaks. Water is ok for now, if it leaks you won't lose the anti freeze.

Pull the valve cover & oil the valve stems & check clearances at .012".

Remove tops of float bowls & check for stuck floats or dirty inlet valves. Turn on ignition & listen for fuel pump clicking which should stop shortly. Be very careful about float bowel flooding or overflow. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Remember that it is positive ground if you use jumper cables.

Crank it over with plugs out until oil pressure shows on the gage. Put clean plugs in & try it.

If it starts check for oil pressure & oil or coolant leaks.

The odds are even that it will run just fine. Might be a water pump leak but maybe it will go away after running a bit.

If you try to drive it be very wary of the brakes. It seems like a stored car nearly always has problems with the brake hydraulics, leaks & stuck pistons.

D

Dave, thanks for the tips on starting it. All solid advice. I probably should have started a new thread for that question. OH well.

Cheers to all!

AH