• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

Engine vibes, coolant on the hood...Water pump?

Tremelune

Member
Offline
I drove my 1965 Sprite (1098cc motor, I believe) for the first time since September and noticed coolant everywhere under the hood when I stopped for gas. I couldn't tell where it was coming from (the motor is rarely dry of fluids), but there was a splash on the underside of the hood, some spots on the top of starter...

The temp gauge behaved normally until I got back home and left the car idling to try and inspect the noise. It went up near 200 (I think), and the coolant spilled on the motor was starting to smoke, so I turned off the car. That's when I saw the pool of coolant spreading on the floor of my garage.

I also noticed during the drive that the motor had a very pronounced vibration. I couldn't identify it, but it was definitely from the motor, and it went from mild to wild with the revs. I just put a new gear-reduction starter in the car, but I don't think that's related.

My guess is that the cold weather did something to the water pump, and when the car got running again, it gave up the ghost and dumped coolant everywhere (including splashes from the drive belts). How do I confirm it's the water pump? Is this a difficult job?
 

JPSmit

Moderator
Staff member
Silver
Country flag
Offline
The thing about coolant is that it is usually obvious where it is coming from as it is a pressurized system. Easiest way requires an assistant and perhaps a flashlight. Get it running, and start looking for where it is coming from - has a hose perished? is a connection loose? I had a pinhole and it was stunning how much liquid it could spray. Could also be a frost plug (they also rust I think) There are lots of possibilities but, not many places to look if that makes sense. Another option is to get under the car to see if you can track the drips - look for what is wet.
 

histerical

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
I believe they also make an additive that shows up under a blacklight. You should rinse off the engine bay pretty thoroughly first, and I guess let it dry, so you maybe see where the leak originates. May not leak until hot, too. You could also just start by checking and tightening hose clamps. Sounds like a pretty good leak or spray to get coolant all over the place.
Bill
 
OP
Tremelune

Tremelune

Member
Offline
I'll get in there and give the pump a shake, maybe fill it with water and really poke around.

Is there a "good" water pump to put in there, or is it pretty much limited to the one Moss Motors sells for $30? Water pumps usually go 60k miles these days...
 

HAN8L1965

Jedi Warrior
Offline
If you do replace the water pump give it a few spins by hand before putting everything all back together, I found the pump from Moss and VB all hit the inside wall of the water jacket on my 65 1098. It was not much but enough that I removed a little lining so that it spun freely. The new pumps vanes are a little different than the origional. I would fill it back up and ran it before I started replacing things, as mentioned it might just be a hose.

Mark
 

Jim_Gruber

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Frank ought to chime in on this. I think there are two different water pumps out there depending on engine. They look like they will both fit but one has clearance issues.
 

Sarastro

Obi Wan
Silver
Country flag
Online
There's a "long impeller" pump and a "short impeller" pump. On the long, the impeller (the part that moves the water) sticks out farther. I'm not sure which one the 1098 uses, so I won't speculate.

Don't assume it's a water pump until you're sure. We humans have a natural tendency to expect the worst, but that isn't always what happens. Some problems are simple to solve. Look for the leak and when you find it, go from there. If it is the water pump, it's cheap and easy to replace.

By the way, it's OK to fill it with water just for the time it takes to find the leak. Then, when it's fixed, of course fill it with the correct coolant.
 
OP
Tremelune

Tremelune

Member
Offline
I can't see <span style="font-style: italic">exactly</span> where the water is coming from. I think it's coming out of the water pump where the pulley attaches...The car is fine until it reaches operating temperature, then water comes spraying out sideways towards the generator from directly underneath the water pump pulley. I think it's mostly the spinning pulley that "sprays" the water sideways. After a few seconds, it stops spraying. I tried looking up from beneath, but the frame/pan block my view.

coolant-spray.jpg


My guess is that the thermostat is opening, and for some reason the pump sees increased pressure and the water sprays out from behind the pulley.

Water pumps are cheap, but the operation is time-consuming.
 

Sarastro

Obi Wan
Silver
Country flag
Online
The standard failure mode, in my experience, is that the bearing goes, which causes noise and/or vibration, then the irregular shaft motion eventually takes out the seal, so it leaks around the shaft. Often you can see the pulley wobbling when the car runs. If you see that, you need a water pump for sure.

And, yeah, you have to dig for it a little, but it's not like you have to pull the engine or anything. Just be glad you don't have to do it for a modern car!
 

Bayless

Yoda
Silver
Country flag
Offline
:iagree: Also, you might remove the belt and spin the pump. If the bearing is gone you should be able to feel or even hear it.
 

JPSmit

Moderator
Staff member
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Mind you if that's where it is, it's most likely the pump
 

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
Offline
I also vote pump.
 
OP
Tremelune

Tremelune

Member
Offline

The_architect

Jedi Trainee
Offline
I would inspect the hose that goes from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator really well and see if it needs attention. In my experience these tend to fail at the joint where the heater return hose joins the main hose.

Without a doubt I would replace the bypass hose too, number 11, which runs between the head and the water pump. It is about three inches long. I had that one go last summer. The space between the head, pump is minimal and blocked by the radiator filler neck it is just a real bugger to change. I had to pull the radiator to do it--very easy to do with my Bugeye, not sure about your car.

Every other hose on the car had been replaced over the years but that bypass hose had not been replaced for many, many years.

Time for a six-bladed plastic fan? I don't know if one would fit.
 
OP
Tremelune

Tremelune

Member
Offline
I'll replace those hoses as a matter of course. They look old and troublesome.

Good time to put in an electric fan? It would take some of the strain off the bearings of whatever water pump goes in there...and maybe even keep this thing from dying in surprise traffic.
 

HAN8L1965

Jedi Warrior
Offline
The 2-130 VB pump you are showing looks a little updated from what they were selling 2 years ago. It looks more refined, if that makes any difference.

I agree, replace all the hoses that is cheap and a nice piece of mind.

Mark
 

Billm

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Very good writeup!
Only thing that I would recommend is to drop the radiator in and hook up the bottom radiator hose BEFORE you put any radiator bolts in.
Just makes it a little easier if you can move the radiator (but it still won't be easy!!!)
BillM
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
sim A-series Engine Block Search Spridgets 2
H "Failure to Proceed" (Engine Won't Fire) Austin Healey 9
L Engine ID British Motor Corp 4
J Can a TF engine be installed in a TD body? MG 7
K TR2/3/3A Coil against hot engine?.....relocating the coil? Triumph 11
C Engine Operating Temperature Austin Healey 21
CARSINC WANTED: 1275 Engine Spridgets 0
tinman58 TR2/3/3A Por-15 in engine block? Triumph 12
W BN4 Engine Mounts Austin Healey 2
B MGB while driving engine cuts out if I let off or push more throttle it comes right back on MG 5
nitro BJ8 Engine Design Austin Healey 1
S Spitfire Triumph Spitfire 1300 engine SU carb problem Triumph 10
G TR2/3/3A TS37903F Is my engine a TR3A engine because my starter says no. Triumph 3
Frameman 1949 Engine Misfiring & Starter Cranks Slowly When Hot Austin Healey 8
B Engine Stalls When Warmed Up Austin Healey 6
HealeyPassion AH Project: Cool Air to Engine Austin Healey 5
F Wanted BJ8 Engine Block Austin Healey Classifieds 1
R For Sale 100 engine block w/head Austin Healey Classifieds 3
R TR6 question re: Engine Oil Triumph 3
P General TR What color is original for engine parts? Triumph 7
AUSMHLY Clutch Stalls Engine Austin Healey 16
SherpaPilot TR6 Unidentified fitting on TR6 Engine Triumph 3
S TR2/3/3A "Vintage" engine analyzer tach unstable? Triumph 14
MikeAH100M High Temp Engine Miss Austin Healey 2
K TR2/3/3A Replacing engine and gearbox mounts? Triumph 8
KVH General Tech Engine Misses Only at 2200 rpm Triumph 12
J For Sale Hoist and engine stand Triumph Classifieds 0
S TR2/3/3A engine and trans are stuck together pretty well Triumph 8
Carlbanan56 MGB No spark and engine cranking slow MG 10
bigjones TR2/3/3A Starting up an engine that hasn't ran for a while. Triumph 39
tr6nitjulius General TR Waterless, easy/peasy, engine cleaning Triumph 2
Darwin Wanted Spitfire engine needed Triumph Classifieds 0
sim oil pressure gage bad or engine needs rebuild It starts our cold at 60 psi but when warm it down to 10 psi Spridgets 21
D A distributer question on the 1275 engine. Spridgets 7
SherpaPilot TR6 Engine Mounting Question Triumph 3
KVH General Tech Loud Metallic Click Pop Every Time After Engine Off Triumph 11
AUSMHLY Engine Flush After Head Gasket Leak Austin Healey 19
Joel Lester TR2/3/3A Priming new engine with oil Triumph 9
BoyRacer Austin A90 mystery engine British Motor Corp 2
T For Sale Excellent Original 1968 TR250 Frame with Engine & Transmission Triumph Classifieds 6
M General MG MG 1500 engine 4-91 or 4-110 MG 3
kodpkd 1961 BT7 engine oil Austin Healey 31
S TR2/3/3A engine removal Triumph 12
R TR2/3/3A Engine stalling and backfiring Triumph 25
M Engine ID Austin Healey 2
JMACENGINESHOP BJ7 Engine Rebuilding Austin Healey 23
KVH TR4/4A Engine Installation Triumph 28
P Spitfire Going up-Engine with my Herald Triumph 6
J Engine Parts Suppliers Austin Healey 6
J TR2/3/3A Engine mount Triumph 5

Similar threads

Top