Inspecting an XKE

I'm going to look at a '71 2+2 XKE at the weekend, armed with a good camera.

It would be great to hear some suggestions on what to look for, and what to photograph for later perusal.

I intend to take photos of the footwells, under the carpets, the engine compartment from all angles, the underside of the car (as much as I can see), the under-dash, the numbers on the chassis, VIN, engine, whatever else I can find, the interior (seats, dash, headliner, etc.), the shut lines of the doors, along the body panels, the spare tire and its well.

I'm not sure the car can be started or not: it certainly can't be driven (iffy brakes) - what should I be listening for?

Are there any notable problem areas in these cars I should be checking?



(And apologies for rather monopolising this forum over the last day or two!)

RUST! Look carefully for it; look closely at the rockers and also if you can get it up on a lift check the area where the rear suspension attaches. Look closely at the underside of the bonnet, especially right inside the front of the opening in front. ETypes are notorious for rust, and too often really bad stuff is covered up with poor body work. The EType is a complex beast and to be honest it would be worth a hundred bucks or so to have it checked out by someone who really knows these cars. serious engine issues can be big $$ to resolve. A rebuild of the rear suspension/ IRS unit can cost several thousand $$. Etc etc. If the body is relatively straight and rust-free (or at least to excessive) then have the mechanicals professionally checked by a competent Jag mechanic; Engine, brakes, gearbox and IRS.

As Basil said, if you are not up on E types, pay someone to look at it. They could save you 10 times their cost by finding one thing you missed. Also, if the car will run, let it idle while you are looking it over. You want the engine to warm to running temp. Check the oil pressure while hot, E's don't have great oil pressure to start with. Check the electrics out. Lights, signals, gauges,etc. There a lot go over but please do or you might regret it later.

Marv

Rust rust rust. Look for any accident damage to the subframe tubes and bonnet. The bonnet should fit well, and be able to be shut and latched by one person. If it takes two people, look real hard for accident damage. Replacement bonnets are hard to find, and really expensive for new repro parts.... The frame tubes cannot be fixed, must be replaced.If the car cannot be started and run, be very very careful. The V12s are really robust, but they will not take overheating. The cooling system has something like 26 hoses, and by now tired fans and relays to run them.They will drop valve seats, and that is $$$$$ to fix. The rest of the car is just mechanical stuff, and pricy interior parts. Nothing really hard to deal with.

A few things you must know about E types, They have inboard rear brake's, and are NOT CHEAP to have a shop replace! Look at the rear end attachment points just in front of the rear wheels for rust out! They must be solid! If you do buy this car dont start it untill you pull the oil pan and inspect and clean it! You dont want fresh oil mixing with all the sludge running through your motor! As long as you have the pan off you can pre lube the cylinder walls as well. Pull the cam covers and pre lube as well. If this car has not been run at least see if the motor turns and is not frozen! Install a battery and see if the motor cranks and check electric system, Plan on rebuilding, carbs, fuel system, brake system, cooling system, all hoses, belts, All soft brake hose's ect.... BEFORE YOU BUY... get prices for repairs you cant do! and see if this car is cost effective after all repairs! YOU DONT WANT TO BE UPSIDE DOWN on any vintage car you invest in. After all, They are investments and you want your money back someday! To be very honest, It is better and cheaper in the long run and less riskey to buy a running well maintained jag! Hope this helps! Michael.

Thanks for all the tips, chaps. I will update once I have seen the car, probably this time tomorrow.

Pictures!

Do like the BOSS says!

It turned out to be *much* more of a "project" than I expected. There are about 150 photos here (still uploading):

'71 XKE

Looks to me like it was originally red, with a poor respray.

The engine would fire, but not run for more than a few seconds - I'm not sure why he tried because I could see detached hoses etc..

Footwells were damp, but this is probably because we had heavy rain here last night and the car was out in it - until now it has been garaged.

Looks like a newish fuel pump in the spare tire compartment.

Exhaust looks to be shot. Still, it's not a disaster

I'd really welcome opinions on this - what am I looking at? Is it a basketcase? What might it take to make it into a driver?

Run Forrest!!!

Basil said:

Run Forrest!!!

Click to expand...

Anything in particular that you see wrong that's very expensive to fix? I need to decide if I want to make an offer or not - after all, I'm looking for a project, not a car to immediately drive :crazy:

There's at LEAST a couple years' worth of project there, as a full-time job.

Stuff you'll need if you DO get it:

1) steam cleaner
2) sand blaster
3) sheet metal brake
4) English wheel
5) Welding gear
6) rotisserie, lift & frame fixture
7) bushel-baskets full of C-notes.
8) soft cryin' towel

DrEntropy said:

There's at LEAST a couple years' worth of project there, as a full-time job.

Stuff you'll need if you DO get it:

1) steam cleaner
2) sand blaster
3) sheet metal brake
4) English wheel
5) Welding gear
6) rotisserie, lift & frame fixture
7) bushel-baskets full of C-notes.
8) soft cryin' towel

Click to expand...

Snort! OK, I get the picture

jjbunn said:

DrEntropy said:

There's at LEAST a couple years' worth of project there, as a full-time job.

Stuff you'll need if you DO get it:

1) steam cleaner
2) sand blaster
3) sheet metal brake
4) English wheel
5) Welding gear
6) rotisserie, lift & frame fixture
7) bushel-baskets full of C-notes.
8) soft cryin' towel

Click to expand...

Snort! OK, I get the picture

Click to expand...

Or save a lot of hassle and a LOT of money and opt for the frontal lobotemy! Or a bottle in front of me....! Either way, you won't remember in the morning! :laugh:


After looking at the pictures.....RUN!

Silverghost said:

jjbunn said:

DrEntropy said:

There's at LEAST a couple years' worth of project there, as a full-time job.

Stuff you'll need if you DO get it:

1) steam cleaner
2) sand blaster
3) sheet metal brake
4) English wheel
5) Welding gear
6) rotisserie, lift & frame fixture
7) bushel-baskets full of C-notes.
8) soft cryin' towel

Click to expand...

Snort! OK, I get the picture

Click to expand...

Or save a lot of hassle and a LOT of money and opt for the frontal lobotemy! Or a bottle in front of me....! Either way, you won't remember in the morning! :laugh:


After looking at the pictures.....RUN!

Click to expand...

It would be really useful if folks could tell me which photos scared them (the most) ... I realise that the car is a project, but I'm trying to understand what the most serious problems are. Is it the rust that people are reacting to (and, if so, where)? Or the body panels, or the interior, or the look of the engine compartment?

I'll almost certainly walk away, but I'd like to learn a bit in the process.

Thanks!

The lower frame-to-bulkhead areas and the sills. What we CAN see portends much deeper corrosion issues down inside where we CAN'T see. The mechanicals wouldn't scare me off but the rust has done. Without having it on a lift in front of me this may seem unfair. But I've seen too many of 'em that <span style="font-style: italic">looked</span> good enough externally and turned into nightmares on uncovering the surface.

Oh, and the indent on the port side rear is a jack placed improperly, kinda hints at irreverent maintenance practices.

Clearly, this car has been "had" by folks that knew nothing about E types. Jacks in the wrong places, missing boots on the air cleaners, flat lower bonnet scoop. Overall, plenty of evidence of being an uncared for car. As I tell folks, there is NOTHING as expensive than a cheap Jaguar. And this one is not even cheap. It can take 100K to restore an Etype (less $$$ the more you can do of course)and this car looks like it needs it all. V12 could be 15 to 20 K to overhaul.... Find a better car, you will end up as a much happier person.

Thanks Jesse and Doc ... excellent information. I didn't like the look of the sills either: they appear to have been resurfaced or something, poorly - not reassuring. I disliked all the overspray. The general rusty look of the underside was unappealing. The bonnet scoop made me wince

There were various odd things in the engine compartment. In particular this one has been puzzling me:



there is a broken rubber elbow with a metal pipe hanging off and disappearing aft - where does that pipe go, and what is it for, I wonder?

Its a non running V-12 coupe!!!....Have had 2 roadsters that were a delight. I couldn't imagine tackling this EXPENSIVE project. Would be upside down at the start....


The more cars you look at the more you will learn....Run as fast as U can from this fright pig.


Pete