Master Brake Cylinder rebuild?

Greetings!

I'm a rookie to this forum, so I apologize in advance if I am asking about somethat that was recently discussed ... like yesterday!?

I've removed the master brake cylinder (MBC) with the idea of rebuilding or replacing. This is the original cylinder and it was rebuilt by a previous owner back in 1995. I doubt the car has traveled more than 10K since then. It has silicone fluid.

Has anyone had good luck rebuilding a MBC? What do you all think about having it re-sleeved? Or does prevailing opinion lean toward outright replacement? I am NOT worried about keeping the car original. Just want it safe.

Thanks!
Jim

Howdy Jim and welcome aboard. I have always rebuilt all my cylinders, be they master cylinders, slave cylinders, or wheel cylinders, unless they were badly pitted. I have never had any problems with a rebuilt cylinder in a car, and I can't see the justification of replacing a cylinder that isn't pitted. As for sleeving them, I have never done that with one I have always either rebuilt them or replaced them. Good luck, and happy motoring.

Hey Jim
Great to have another TR6er on the forum. While I've been redoing my TR6, I've rebuilt 2 different brake MC. Both were pitted and not a good candidate for a rebuild. If your MCs are pitted you have 2 options, 1 you could have it resleeved by Apple Hydraulics, or 2 just buy a new brake MC that is already assemblied and ready to put on the car after you bench bleed it. A new one is under 200 bucks. Depending on how much of a hands on kind of guy you are that will help make your decision. After 2 nonsuccessful rebuilds because they were pitted and 2 scary trips home without brakes I just bought a new one and have been satisfied with it. If your MC is in good shape go right ahead and rebuilt it like what Walter said. I think you should before putting the MC back on the car bench bleed it to make sure everything is working properly. Does everyone else agree on bench bleeding the MC before you put it back on the car?

Eric, I'm a firm believer in bench bleeding. You can move the cylinder to the optimum angle to expel all the air, and you also can move the piston full stroke. Doing it on the car, using the brake pedal will not bottom the piston out, and consequently it may have a small pocket of trapped air.
If you are worried about spilled fluid messing up the paint during installation, put aluminum foil and paper towels down underneath the cylinder, and the paint won't be touched by the fluid.
Jeff

I usually don't bench bleed a cylinder. To me it has always seemed like an extra step that was not really needed. I know some guys like to do it though just to ensure it is going to work before they bolt it on. Just my 2 cents, but do whatever you feel comfortable doing.

I appreciate the posts. I reckon I'll take the MBC apart and check out the inside wall for pitting, etc. If it looks questionable I'll replace it.

Thanks for your replies!
Jim

I just rebuilt mine after inquiring on this forum and it was a piece of cake. Lucky mine had no pitting at all. I also rebuilt the servo and it too was faily easy. As for the bench bleeding, I think it's an extra step as well. Good luck.