TR6 TR6 Clutch MC rebuild

I'm getting ready to rebuild and re-install the clutch MC. The MC looks great inside so I'm confident it shouldn't be a problem. Any tips on putting it back and bleeding it? Is the procedure similiar to bleeding the brake MC? Just attached a bleeder to the clutch slave cylinder?

Push the slave all the way in until you get fluid coming out, will save a lot of pumps on the pedal and air at the top of the slave. Wayne

TR6web,
Make sure you bench bleed the clutch MC before you put it back on the car. I think thats what trrdstr2000 said but just making sure. When you get a rebuild kit make sure its the right size for you MC.
Eric
73 TR6

bigbadbluetr6, good idea on making sure about the size, I think they did a .70 and a .75 and you never know what someone else has done, it's on the side of the clutch MC or on a tag, if it's still there. Bench bleeding the master is good, but really I was talking about the slave, just saves some time if you push it all the way in before starting the bleed process. Wayne

Thanks all. Stupid question here....what exactly is bench bleeding?

It means that you're using a vise to hold the master cylinder in place while you fill it with brake fluid and use the rod to force fluid in and air out. You'll feel the cylinder pressure rise as you force the rod along.

Bench bleeding does reduce the amount of time spent bleeding a system. Try it.

Jeff

Hi all, Over the years I've always rebuilt MC and slave cylinders only using the type of fluid I planned to use in the system, to clean and lubricate parts as I reassembled. One problem with this is that during a long-term restoration a rebuilt cylinder could get stuck, while awaiting the rest of the car to come back together. Also, I've torn or damaged a few seals, occasionally gotten a piston stuck, or similar. Never fun, but I always just accepted it as a part of the job. Just recently I was at my local auto parts store and found Raybestoes Hydraulic Cylinder Assembly Lubricant there. It's basically a medium weight oil that's compatible with all types of brake fluid and works better to lube the parts during reassembly, and can be sparingly coated on the inside of cylinders, caps, metal reservoirs, etc., to protect against corrosion while the system awaits the rest of the restoration. I'm trying it and just wanted to pass it along. Already I managed to free a stuck seal on a clutch master cylinder that was rebuilt a year ago, but hasn't gotten back on the road yet. I've got a couple calipers about to be fitted with new pistons and seals, will use it there too. We'll see how it works! The instructions emphasize this is not an additive to the fluid of the brake system and should be used very sparingly during assembly.

If not using silicone fluid I'd stay away from bench bleeding the master as there is a inevitiably some paint removing brake fluid that leaks out. VTR goes on at length about bench bleeding being necessary but I've never found that to be the case. I lightly lubricate the bore and seals when rebuilding and then fill it completely once reinsalled and connected to the brake lines.

Does bench bleeding save time? Probably a few minutes. But it is inherently a messier method.

Thanks bunzil and everyone else. I think I'll try bunzil's method as I've been topping the MC up for years and I know there's air in the system, but the brakes work just fine. I just sanded, repaired, and repainted the whole area below the MC so the less messier the better.

The one good thing about "Bunzils" method is that after the brakes fail, at least you know that the paint around the master cylinder was in good shape.
Jeff