Well ain't this just peaches and cream.

Figured out why the starter in my TR3A wouldn't turn over... the engine is seized. Popped the valve cover, and there are nice big green puddles of anti-freeze in there. So who knows what kind of damage has been done. I've already got a car undergoing an engine rebuild. I don't want another one right now :madder:

Have you tried to pull the engine over by hand, using the steel fan?

You're positive it's siezed?

That sure doesn't sound good, but I thought that a cracked head would manifest itself prior to having an engine sieze up.

Yeah, I pulled the spark plugs, removed the fan belt, and then tried to turn the car over with the hand crank, and by putting it in gear and rocking it back and forth. Won't budge.

I'm going to drop the pan tonight and see if I can see anything from below, then pull the head and see what's up. The anti-freeze/head gasket may be coincidental to the seized cylinder.

Just curious when was the car last running?

Scott

Last fall. I put it away for the winter in October. I tried to start it up in Feb and the starter was too weak to spin the engine fast enough (it's been weak for a couple years now). So I replaced the starter, and it cranked nicely for about five seconds and then locked up.

The engine only has about 2K on it, but has been mostly sitting for about 12 years.

Just a WAG, no chance that the starter could be locked up on the flywheel?

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

Hopefully a stuck valve? Had one that way on a TR4, it locked up the rocker assembly, I found out the hard way it. A rocker arm snapped when I put a little too much pressure on the cheater bar I way using. Ended up removing head and engine would turn. Engine will be rebuilt later.

Marv

M_Pied_Lourd said:

Just a WAG, no chance that the starter could be locked up on the flywheel?

Click to expand...

Yeah, that was my first thought and hope. But not the case, unfortunately.

Try taking the plugs out and fill each cylinder with transmission fluid. Let it sit for a couple of weeks and then try it again. I have a friend that did this in the almost same situation and it worked.

Yikes.

Agree w/ Dan that MMO or similar down the bores is the next step. Fingers crossed.

danstr6 said:

Try taking the plugs out and fill each cylinder with transmission fluid. Let it sit for a couple of weeks and then try it again. I have a friend that did this in the almost same situation and it worked.

Click to expand...

I'm way too impatient to do that!!!! :laugh:

I'm also concerned about finding the cause of the antifreeze on top of the head, even if it's not directly related to the engine seizing.

jdubois said:

I'm way too impatient to do that!!!! :laugh:

Click to expand...

MMO works pretty quickly - give it a day or so

jdubois said:

I'm also concerned about finding the cause of the antifreeze on top of the head, even if it's not directly related to the engine seizing.

Click to expand...

Agreed. So everything was OK when you last drove her???

It could be hydrostatically locked up. How much fluid is in each cylinder as well as the crankcase? Draining everything and putting in fresh oil may allow it to turn over.

tdskip said:

So everything was OK when you last drove her???

Click to expand...

Yup. I'd been fighting a fuel delivery problem last spring, which turned out to be a bad valve seat thread on the front float cover. Once I got that straightened out she ran great all summer (minus the on-going choke geometry and weak starter issues). In October, I changed the oil, filled the tank, and put her away, figuring there'd be no issue in the spring.

Brosky said:

It could be hydrostatically locked up.

Click to expand...

You meaning if there's a ton of coolant in there?

jdubois said:

M_Pied_Lourd said:

Just a WAG, no chance that the starter could be locked up on the flywheel?

Click to expand...

Yeah, that was my first thought and hope. But not the case, unfortunately.

Click to expand...

I like that suggestion enough to ask... how do you know that is not the case?

Technique for freeing a stuck starter is gearbox in 4th and rock the car backwards. Can take quite a bit of hard rocking sometimes.

Geo Hahn said:

I like that suggestion enough to ask... how do you know that is not the case?

Click to expand...

Because when I thought that's what it was, I physically removed the starter.

Okay -- that's a pretty definitive way to eliminate that suspect.

First:
If the plugs are out, engine can't be hydrostatically locked, but if a valve broke a stem and fell into a cylinder...I'm just saying... shine a light into the cylinders (bore light if you have one), or pull the valve cover and make sure all valves are intact. Both jobs way eaiser than pulling the head.
Second:
Anything that rotates with the crankshaft could break and lock the engine, ranging from distributor, oil pump, or cam chain.
I suguest that you (1) pull the dizzy and be sure the shaft turns. (2) Turn the oil pump, although if it is the culprit, removing the dizzy and drive gear from the cam shaft takes it out of the loop and if the engine will now turn over, the problem is a locked up oil pump. (3) Feel around the bottom of the cam chain cover for any dimple(s) that might indicate a broken chain jambed between the crank sprocket and the cover. A loose nut or bolt from the cam sprocket or chain tensioner could also be jammed in there too. Turning the engine backwards might free up the jamb enough to indicate that the problem lies in this area.
If you have no joy after these checks, pull the pan and look for a broken crankshaft or connecting rod.
Hope you find the problem quickly. Good Luck!

bgbassplyr said:

First:
If the plugs are out, engine can't be hydrostatically locked, but if a valve broke a stem and fell into a cylinder...I'm just saying... shine a light into the cylinders (bore light if you have one), or pull the valve cover and make sure all valves are intact. Both jobs way eaiser than pulling the head.

Click to expand...

Valve cover already pulled. There are puddles of anti-freeze on top of the head, but the valve train looks nominally intact.

bgbassplyr said:

(1) pull the dizzy and be sure the shaft turns. (2) Turn the oil pump, although if it is the culprit, removing the dizzy and drive gear from the cam shaft takes it out of the loop and if the engine will now turn over, the problem is a locked up oil pump. (3) Feel around the bottom of the cam chain cover for any dimple(s) that might indicate a broken chain jambed between the crank sprocket and the cover. A loose nut or bolt from the cam sprocket or chain tensioner could also be jammed in there too. Turning the engine backwards might free up the jamb enough to indicate that the problem lies in this area.
If you have no joy after these checks, pull the pan and look for a broken crankshaft or connecting rod.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll run down your list.