Race Weekend Checklist?

Since it's the "off-season" (for those of us in the northeast, at least), I've been thinking about the checklist I use before I go away for a weekend.

This question came up with the guys in my vintage club (VRG) but I'll bet some of you have some good ideas too.

My list (below) is far from perfect, but I try to go over it before each event.
Not everything on my list is "stuff"....some of it involves suggested tasks too.

What you you add or change?

_________________________________

AT HOME:

Check / change the oil (fill to top mark on dipstick; change oil (plus filter) after each event. Check / change radiator fluid. Add Redline Water Wetter to radiator (no anti-freeze unless allowed).
Check transmission and differential fluids.
Check for any axle fluid leaks (Sprites and MGs around rear brake drums).
Check brake lines for cracks (stainless steel brake lines and "Speed Bleeders" are also a good investment) and make sure your brake lines have enough length in them when your suspension is fully extended. Check / change brake fluid
Check brake pads (should be 50% or better).
Brake lights operational?
Check / change clutch fluid.
Check hoses and belts for cracks
Check rotors (especially the front rotors) and hubs for cracks and wear.
Check tires for excessive wear, flat-spots, cuts and bad/worn/cracked valve stems; pressure (Approx. 40 psi HOT for radials. Bias tires are much lower); re-torque lug nuts after first session. Check wheels for cracks, especially around the spokes.
Check the steering & suspension for excess play or clunking sounds. Check sway bar nuts and bolts, especially on the front where the sway bar bolts to the a-arm or farme. With the car on jacks, wiggle the wheels. If they have some play and move back & forth with your hands at 6 and 12 o'clock, you probably have bad wheel bearings. If they show some play with your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, you probably have worn tie-rod end-links.
Recommend replace brake and clutch fluid with high temp brake fluid (DOT4 or similar).

Check all trailer lights and trailer tire pressures. Be sure hitch is correctly secured. Adjust trailer brakes as required for good "threshold" of brake engagement (also, I like to drive about 3 or 4 miles and then re-check all the tie-downs).

Be sure you have all registration and insurance forms for tow vehicle and trailer. If you're going over the border, bring appropriate ID stuff (passport is best).

If I'll be away more than 3 or 4 days, I cancel my US Mail (it's very easy to do on-line).

AT THE TRACK:

Check / adjust tire pressure to approx 32 psi cold, and/or approx 40 psi hot (this is for radials....bias tires are usually less).
If using tape-on wheel weights, tape up weights with duct tape that they don't fall off your wheel when it becomes hot.
Check engine oil level after first session
Gas cap secured.
No exposed wires.
Seats bolted tightly.
Buckle passenger seat belt (if unused).
Remove floor mats and ALL other loose objects.
Clean windows and mirrors with windex.
Be sure car numbers are clear and easy to read (especially on open wheel cars)
Make sure transponder, if any, is secured by at least two tie-straps, plus some tape is recommended, too.

STUFF TO BRING (REQUIRED):

Approved driving suit (Nomex), aprroved racing shoes, approved gloves, Snell SA 2005 helmet with clean shield, arm restraints (open cars), window nets (certain closed cars). Check to see that harnesses are up-to date. Max age of belts may vary with different organizations (Note: Just FYI, NASA and SCCA rules: Max age for SFI-tagged belts= two years and max age for FYI-tagged belts=five years)

Required forms, completed in advance (e.g., medical, pre-tech, helmet/harness release).

Log book and pre-check form.

STUFF TO BRING (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED)

Factory manual for car with "specs"
Fuel can (5 gal min).
Tire pressure gauge
At least four, decent, mounted race tires on good rims.
Jack
Jack stands
Tire air compressor (or tank - air available at track)
Engine oil (1-2 quarts)
1 container of brake fluid
Brake bleeding equipment (tube/bottle, etc.)
Duct tape
Spare fire extinguisher along with unit in car (ensure car-mounted unit is metal-to-metal mount)
WD-40
Windex
Rain-X
Paper towels / rags / wipes
Cotton towel for yourself
"Work clothes" (don't get your Nomex greasy!).
Torque wrench w/ sockets
Other tools (metric or inch/imperial socket set as required, box and/or open end wrench sets, locking pliers, screwdrivers, safety wire, steel, brass and plastic hammer)
Spare nuts, bolts, zip-ties, pry bars, pop-rivets (and gun)
Cordless drill with drill bits.
Various metal files (flat and round) plus "sand" paper (or similar).
Simple volt-ohm meter with some spare 16 gauge wire and electrical tape (crimp tool and conectors are good too).
Bottled water, Gatorade, etc.
Food, energy bars, etc.
Wireless laptop computer.
"Critical" spares (for Sprites, this means axles and various ignition parts...other cars as appropriate)

STUFF TO BRING (OPTIONAL)

Spare parts (This is probably overkill but it's always better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.)
water pump belt
Brake pads
Rotors (front & rear)
Wheel hubs (front & rear)
Caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts and caliper pins
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Fuel filter
Jumper cables + extra 12V battery
Funnel for oil
Tire pyrometer
Run flat aerosol cans (not for race car)
Grease
Hand soap or waterless hand cleaner
Ice chest
Sunglasses
Sun screen
Camera
Camera batteries charged
Extra tapes if you are doing in-car video (DVD or hard drive cameras not recommended due to high G-force environment of the track.)
Stopwatch
Flashlight
Map/directions/ phone number of hotel
Map/directions/ phone number of track
Gloves
Folding chair
Umbrella
Ground tarp
Rain tarp
Plastic garbage bags
Extra set of tow vehicle keys
Cell phone (and call home to tell them you're OK once in a while).
Credit cards plus some cash.
A sense of humor.

FOLLOWING EACH TRACK SESSION

Cool down lap - no brakes if possible
No parking brake in pit
Check tire pressures hot and re-torque lugs or "one slap" to knock-offs.
Hydrate the driver

Fog-X for glasses and visor. BTW, Aeronca, my car program is coming together and I should have a pretty nice LP HP legal for SCCA and VRG ready to roll come about March. Wish I could get to Summit Point for the Turkey Trot to meet some people and watch, but duty calls, I'm overseas from 30 Nov until into Dec (civilian). Anyway, catch you later, will post some pics as the project looks a bit more respectable (when we move from dismantle and clean to rebuild and reassemble)
Bugger

Yep, I wear glasses so Fog-X a good idea too.

My brother just got back from civy duty in Kuwait, so I hear you on that.

VRG is still working out the schedule, but the Jefferson 500 will probably be in early May at Summit. That's a good one!

G'luck with your car progress and look forward to seeing photos of it (or, in person).

No way I can do all that every time...List or not.
I just don't unload anything from the truck or trailer...
(Except empty beer cans and fast food wrappers)

Also...I take in 2 pairs of socks & 1 balaclava...
(I have 2 pairs of carbon-X socks & 1 balaclava that are new...They stay in the glove box)

I have what has been described as a 'mobile junkyard'

.....Add "Remove Carb cover(s)" if applicable, i dont know how many times i put on the rear deck and left the cover on, it would tip the cover up just enough for it to run at low revs and as soon as i got on it.....nothing, VERY embarassing, finally put on a long red streamer on it.

Here at the High Speed Triumph Research Laboratory, we, the Boffins, do not rely solely on theory. We empirical test exhaustively in an effort to add our mite to the body of knowledge.

Through this testing, we have found that, if you leave the plugs in the carb intakes, the engine will indeed not start no matter how long you crank the starter.

No thanks are necessary, it's our job.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Nice, John. I've used a lot of "liberated" red "REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT" ribbons in th' past. :smirk:

I've been hearing some pretty gnarly stories about race groups composed of clear-minded prod racers mixed in with demented SRF clods at Summit SCCA races, makes me start to perhaps rethink a little the idea of a blended sirst season back doing both vintage and SCCA -

BuggerAll said:

clear-minded prod racers

Click to expand...

Where a FCY during a race is "British half time"
Have some tea, & put the other engine your "rolling chicane"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dI5Y7Nl2Bic