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follow up question on ZDDP

griff

Senior Member
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It seems a fair number of people are using VR1 racing oil for it's ZDDP content. My question is there any issue in the fact that it has very little detergent?

Griff
 

DNK

Great Pumpkin
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Brad Penn. Full ZDDP and good oil.
Why do we need detergent. Haven't run it thru the washing machine in years :laugh:
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Motor oil 'detergent' helps keep dirt particles suspended, so they can be removed by the filter, instead of allowing them to settle and 'plate' out on components.

I ran the old Valvoline racing oil (before it became known as VR1) for many years, and it worked very well for me. Engines were very clean, so the detergent level appeared to be adequate for the job.

Castrol OTOH always left a layer of sludge in the bottom of the oil pan and in the rocker shaft (although not nearly as bad as some other oil brands).
 
D

Deleted member 8987

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You run non-detergent for break-in (so the garbage settles out), change it HOT so it flushes, then use detergents.
I got 300K out of my last motor using Valvoline 30WT HD.
NEVER use something you have to ask for.
We used to call it "motor killer" in the shops.

Dave
 

6TTR3A

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I've been a Valvoline fan for many years (&miles)with no problems. They have changed their VR1 formula recently (2007) to conform to EPA standards but the Zinc Phosphate ratio is (almost IMO) acceptable for our solid tappet engines. I get anal & add either the GM break-in stuff or the Moss "ZDDP" 4 oz. stuff.
FRank
 

billspit

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6TTR3A said:
I've been a Valvoline fan for many years (&miles)with no problems. They have changed their VR1 formula recently (2007) to conform to EPA standards but the Zinc Phosphate ratio is (almost IMO) acceptable for our solid tappet engines. I get anal & add either the GM break-in stuff or the Moss "ZDDP" 4 oz. stuff.
FRank

There seems to be more than one type of VR-1 out there, unless I am seeing the old containers. I cannot imagine real racing oil ever having to be EPA compliant.
 

poolboy

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For Castrol fans, the diesel engine motor oil 15w-40 container states that it contains the Z stuff.
For a broken in engine, is it enough ?
 

Don_R

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The last VR1 racing oil I bought had NOT STREET LEGAL stickers on it.

I bet that it's not EPA compliant.
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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They've changed their line up and labeling several times now; currently the "Not street legal" stuff is NOT VR1, only "Valvoline Racing", and there is also both "conventional" and "synthetic" VR1.

https://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/

But the EPA has not (AFAIK) actually published standards for zinc & phosphorus in motor oil; these are basically voluntary efforts by the API to avoid having the EPA make the rules. In spite of the "not street legal" label, it is perfectly legal to use these oils in older engines driven on the street; just not in newer emission-controlled engines that specify low-zinc, low viscosity oil as part of their emissions package.
 

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
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Ken and you Castrol fans. This will be going in mine on the spring oil change. Made especially for flat tappets, plenty of ZDDP:
 

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hondo402000

Darth Vader
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yea and we all know when the government makes rules WE ALL Loose cause they dont know what they are talking about. Dont get me started


Hondo
 

billspit

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The only problem I have with the Castrol Syntec is it is a synthetic. I don't need anything that is going to leak even faster.
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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billspit said:
I don't need anything that is going to leak even faster.
Not all synthetics do that. As a long time user of Valvoline synthetic, I can report that not one of my cars (including non-LBCs) has leaked any worse; and in one case oil consumption actually dropped remarkably.

OTOH it was Castrol that argued that the word "synthetic" is basically meaningless ... I wouldn't pay extra for it.
https://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=castrol+hydrocracked+oil
 
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