TR6 '76 TR6 frozen clutch?

Just got the TR off of jack stands (car had sat for 10+yrs prior), seems the clutch is frozen. Tried to start the in gear and it lurched forward. I have rebuilt the clutch master and slave cycl. The car did have no clutch issues 10+ yrs ago, so I would guess the clutch is frozen right? Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions? Really would love NOT to have to remove gearbox or engine, etc.......
thanks
Ed

With the transmission in high gear, I had someone in the vehicle depressing the clutch pedal while two people front and rear pushed back and forth on the vehicle in a rocking motion. This procedure unstuck my GT6's stuck clutch.

Yeah, what you most likely have is the clutch disk rusted to the flywheel or pressure plate, or both. Maybe you can break it loose using Jay's method. When that happened on mine some years ago, I had to take the transmission out and fix it. Maybe you could jack it up and start the engine, then have someone let it down while you hold the clutch in (provided you have stopping room if it doesn't break loose!) Good luck!

Dan B.
S. Charleston, WV
66 TR4AIRS EFI
80 TR7 DHC

I've had the disk rust to the flywheel a number of times on various cars. If rocking the car doesn't work, you can try having someone depress the clutch while you go under there and pry the clutch from the flywheel. It's a wee bit inelegant, but it works.

(This assumes the transmission bell housing provides access to the clutch assembly and that you have access to the clutch disk through some opening on the side of the pressure plate.)

Another approach is to just take the car for a short drive, while holding the clutch down. When my TR3 stuck, I only got as far as the end of the driveway before it came loose.

But I would first make sure you have enough travel at the clutch slave cylinder. Later TR6 are known for being rather deficient in this area; any loss of motion (due to things like worn clevis or clevis pins or even a hose that balloons more than it should) combined with a new clutch may not leave enough travel to fully release the clutch. Some folks have even gone as far as fitting the earlier TR6 MC (which has a larger bore for more motion at the slave) to their late TR6.

On both Stags now, I've had to ream the holes in the clutch pedal & MC pushrod clevis oversize, and use an oversize pin, to get back enough motion.

Randall is right in suggesting you check hydraulics and linkage for proper operation first... then run the engine to normal operating temp at idle, turn it off and push it to someplace you have PLENTY of runout, start it with second gear (two stout "helpers" to push) and clutch depressed. Get it to 10~15 MPH and CRAM on the binders. It'll let go. It's kinda brutal and best done on pavement but if the fork movement is enough to normally release the disk, it will break loose. May take two tries.

Randall and the DR are right on. I've had to do the same thing several times. I usually crank the car ( pointed out the driveway) in gear. I hit the gas and let up, most times by the second or third time the clutch breaks loose. E types are even worse.

Marv

Got it on the 2nd try, dragged the car in 3rd, clutch in, boom, succes! thanks!

Glad it worked out for you!

Dan

I'm going to have to try this in my alley but it's a bit scary, I don't want to break that pin in the bell housing!

Not sure it's the best idea but it worked for me, rather rough on the running gear. I jacked up the (Morris Minor), had someone depressing the clutch and pushed it off the jack, success ! I would be interested in responses to this idea in terms of how advisable this is and where the weak spots would be in the drive train