TR6 TR6 front wheel bearing ?

The weather has been perfect in Tx for TR driving. So well that today I worked on mine. During my last trip to Austin, I noticed that the car wanted to wander a little at highway speeds -like maybe alignment was off, or a bad link.

First I decided to swap the front wheels and while doing so, noticed a lot of play in the wheel -like the bearing was loose. Taking the hub off, everything looked ok, no signs of any grease leaking around the seal, still grease in the bearings, no signs of over heated bearings/races. No signs of wear on the bearings or races. I cleaned out the old grease, repacked, reassembled, and everything seems fine. The drivers side had more "end float" than the passenger, but either was 4 or 8 times what it should be.

My book says to tighten the wheel bearing nut to 5ft-lbs and back off a flat. -My torque wrench will not register less than 10ft-lbs, but that approach seems to allow the wheel to spin free, with very minimal float. I tried to use my harbor-freight-vice-grips/dial indicator, but don't understand exactly where/how to measure the end float.

But my real question is, how could the end float change over time? Or did I incorrectly install the bearings a few years ago? The cotter keys were intact. My test drive at 70mph seemed to track true.

TexasKnucklehead said:

But my real question is, how could the end float change over time?

Click to expand...

One way for that to happen is to try to set the float per the book with a new felt seal installed. The new seals are sometimes too thick and take up the clearance at first; then wear and compress over time to allow more slack. At least one factory publication (I forget which one offhand) recommends setting the clearance first, before installing the seal, then marking the nut position so it can be put back to the same place after the seal is installed.

I just keep checking the clearance occasionally, by trying to shake the top of the tire. If they get loose, tighten them up.

Jerry-

You may have already ruled it out, but have you checked for wear in the trunnion/ball joint/inner fulcrum areas? The wheel play might be suspension flex in other parts of the system - if you set bearing float tight and can still rock everything you might want to take a look.

Randy

It is possible the bearings were not fully seated in the first place.

I always over tighten the axle nut while rotating the wheel by hand to seat the bearings. Then back off until the wheel is loose and then use the procedure you describe.

I'm not to that point yet -- still tearing it apart -- but I read somewhere that you're supposed to torque to 10 pounds, then back off a half a flat plus enough to get the cotter pin in.
Steve

Tex,

Check the 4 bolts with the locking plates on the back of the verticle link. When I did my resto, I bought and installed new locking plates and torqued the fasteners as specified in the books....

Upon inspection after a drive one day, I found some looseness in the wheel because of the fasteners backing off.

Since then, I redid these fasteners and along with the locking plates added some blue loctite. No problems since.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd