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TR6 another "?" re TR6 diff mounting

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charlie74

charlie74

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another "?" re TR6 diff mounting

i am on the cusp of placing an order for some bits from Moss and was reading their catalogue while trying to keep my wallet somewhat closed at the same time. one thing i am planning on doing is replacing the diff mounts. my question is (a thousand pardons for beating a dead horse but); are the poly diff mounts worth the extra cost? seeing as they sell the front mounts separately from the rear, does that imply that poly and rubber can both be used (for front and rear respectively)?
this is a stock car and as far as i am at this point aware the frame/mounts are in good shape.
as a follow up, does the clunking that is indicative of broken mounts occur every time you shift from forward to reverse? or change gears for that matter?
thanks in advance
c74
 
poolboy

poolboy

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Re: another "?" re TR6 diff mounting

After having my mounts reinforced I went back with rubber on the front and poly on the rear. I would have gone with rubber all around for more of the cushoning effect, but the rubber rear have the metal sleeve "vulcanized" to the rubber at the core.
I found that my old mounts had seperated letting the metal sleeve to clang against the mounting pin during shifts and upon hard acceleration. This sound is similar to the noise you hear from a cracked front mount.
I just didn't want that to happen again and so I went with rear polys' that don't have the inner metal sleeve to begin with.
 
BobbyD

BobbyD

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Re: another "?" re TR6 diff mounting

After having a broken mount boxed in ....actually all 4 boxed in, I installed the GP Nissan diff conversion which recommends GP Nylatron bushings. I have Nylatron bushings for all of my suspension components and find the ride to be fine.

The broken/cracked mount sound is typically a "clunk" that you hear and feel on take off. Unless your dif pins are busted in half you'll have to drop the diff, sand the mounts clean and use a strong light to inspect them It's not always a big obvious crack that causes the clunk.

Here's what mine looked like after I cleaned the mounts up.

BottomCrack.jpg

TopCrack.jpg
 
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