I'm actually laughing even with a blown head gaske

mikecyc72usa

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• Sep 27, 2009

• #1

So I finally got all the basics done on my Spit 1500. Even with a severe sinus infection, somehow I got it driving. Not the greatest, but ok. All my gauges work, even if the fuel gauge went a bit crazy. Brakes need some more work, too. So I was on my way to TX All British Car Days in Round Rock, TX, when I noticed a faint cloud starting to form behind me. A second later, I heard the familiar whack whack whack an engine makes when the head gasket gives up the ghost. I coasted to a shopping plaza, locked up, called my wife, and went to the show. Car's back in the garage.

Time for draining the engine, replacing the head gasket and radiator (it developed some pinholes), getting the head cleaned and making sure it's straight, an alignment, a new PDWA valve, and some other fun stuff. I'm pretty happy, as considering what could have gone wrong, this was a pretty good shakedown cruise. Time to get to work!

 

TR4nut

Yoda

Offline

• Sep 27, 2009

• #2

Well that explains it! I was looking for your car and didn't spot it - pretty good turnout, I just got back from it (380 mile weekend and nothing blew up!). Hopefully can load up some pictures in a bit.

 

T

tdskip

Yoda

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• Sep 27, 2009

• #3

Way to hold on to a good attitude Mike. That is what shake down cruises are for. Sounds like you are making progress. Keep us posted.

 

OP

mikecyc72usa

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• Sep 27, 2009

• #4

I tried, but it was fun. Was that your red TR4 at the show? I wandered around some, but was feeling weak after maybe an hour and a half, so went home. Relaxed, and already drained the oil which had no coolant in it. Disconnected everything so tomorrow I can drain the coolant. No time like now to replace any suspect items in the cooling system. I intend on hitting OK for the regional next year.

If you were at the regional in Marble Falls, I was the photographer/editor/projector guy for that event. Figure you might want to put a face with the name. Well, time to make a list of parts and figure out the stages of this project. I'm going to put some pics up in my album on photobucket tomorrow.

Thanks for all the support, you will see me soon!

 

TR4nut

Yoda

Offline

• Sep 28, 2009

• #5

mikecyc72usa said:

Was that your red TR4 at the show?

Click to expand...

That was me. For some reason, they had the TR3's, 4's, and 250's off the main Triumph row. Felt a little lonely there, I had to walk about 100 ft to get to mingle with the rest of the Triumph crew. And to get there I had to pass through the land of Deloreans and LandRovers.

I was quite proud of my 2nd place plaque - I'll probably forget to tell anyone that field considered of 2 cars! Hard to beat a beautiful Jasmine yellow TR250.

mikecyc72usa said:

If you were at the regional in Marble Falls, I was the photographer/editor/projector guy for that event. Figure you might want to put a face with the name. Well, time to make a list of parts and figure out the stages of this project. I'm going to put some pics up in my album on photobucket tomorrow.

Click to expand...

I missed that event, work got in the way. I may need to get the TR4 in shape for the Oklahoma regional as I know the TR3A won't be ready.

 

OP

mikecyc72usa

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• Sep 28, 2009

• #6

I'll see you at OK next year. Bob's TR250 is awesome. He and his wife are the original owners if I recall correctly. Glad you had a good time yesterday. Your TR4 is really nice.

 

OP

mikecyc72usa

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• Sep 29, 2009

• #7

Ok, the engine is drained, the water pump is off, as are hoses, thermostat, valve cover, and a few other parts. No coolant in oil, basically no oil in coolant, too. Looks like the back of the engine got a steam cleaning. It'll be pretty straightforward once I get the parts. Anything that is even remotely suspect is out the door, in with new parts.

As an aside, anyone have pictures of their steering wheel mounted without the rubber doughnut and emblem in place? This is a stalk horn, by the way. No horn on the column. Something doesn't seem right, but I can't pin it down. Anyway, off to bed.

 

T

tdskip

Yoda

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• Sep 29, 2009

• #8

Any pictures of the wheel Mike?

 

OP

mikecyc72usa

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• Sep 29, 2009

• #9

I can get some up later today, actually. I'll post them in my photobucket album so they're nice and big. Here's the link to what I have so far:
https://s584.photobucket.com/albums/ss289/mike_tr4/

 

OP

mikecyc72usa

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• Sep 29, 2009

• #10

I'll get steering wheel pics up asap, but first more pressing issues. Anyone have a water pump housing in good shape for a Spitfire 1500? I'm needing that, a new radiator, return pipe, and the list goes on. Heck, I'm going to be preemptive and see if anyone knows of a good heater core needing a home. Feel free to contact me. Thanks.

 

OP

mikecyc72usa

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• Sep 29, 2009

• #11

Ok, so the head is ready to come off, but it won't. That simple. All nuts are off, ant studs I could get out are out, but it will not budge. Any advice? This is a first for me. I've got penetrant soaking tonight, maybe better luck in the morning.

 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin

Platinum

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• Sep 30, 2009

• #12

Copious PB Blaster or Kroil down the stud holes. Wait.

This is a Jaguar trick: push rope into the #1 & #4 cylinders at BDC until they're "packed", turn the engine (by hand) to compress the rope and push against the head.

 

Don_R

Jedi Warrior

Offline

• Sep 30, 2009

• #13

Mike,

The old rope in the cylinder trick seemd to work for me. with the plugs out it is easy to fish a length of small cord or rope into the cylinder and use the piston to push up on the cylinder head.

 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin

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• Sep 30, 2009

• #14

:wink:

 

Don_R

Jedi Warrior

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• Sep 30, 2009

• #15

you beat me to it Doc, was typin the same time youz wuz

 

OP

mikecyc72usa

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• Sep 30, 2009

• #16

I tried the rope. No dice. I'm thinking a head stud and the head are very fond of each other... No bother, I'll keep working at it. It's not a huge rush in some ways, as I need to get quite a few parts, I just like to feel like I'm making progress. I shall keep you posted, and more pics are up at my link below. Well, actually they will be in a few minutes.

 

OP

mikecyc72usa

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• Sep 30, 2009

• #17

Ok, after hours of work, I've gotten the head to basically free from the block, except two right side studs are refusing to let go of the head. They are being soaked again as we speak, and I'm hoping the deck isn't all wonky. I'm not in the mood or position to pull the engine and have it milled, etc, but if it needs it, guess I'll be selling a bike or two...

 

T

tomgt6

Jedi Warrior

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• Sep 30, 2009

• #18

I had the same issue with the GT6. I would really try and get the stud out. If you can't use the 2 bolt method buy a stud puller. You can use a socket type stud puller or a stud puller that clamps down around the stud.

My guess is the stud is rusted to the head and you will do a lot of damage to the head in the long run with the studs in place trying to slide the head up the studs. Also you will find that it is normally easier to twist the stud out then to slide the head off a rusty stud.

Don't ask me what I did to my head and block. It got it fixed but it was a bear. I wish I had tried harder to get the studs out. Studs cost $4 and the head cost much more.

 

OP

mikecyc72usa

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• Sep 30, 2009

• #19

The head is off! It took lots of work and some creative thinking, but I was able to basically jack the head off. Looks like the gasket gave out, no other damage I can see yet. The head goes to the shop tomorrow for cleaning and a slight shave to make sure it's straight, plus a little compression bump. Now it's time to aquire needed parts and get back on the road.

 

OP

mikecyc72usa

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• Oct 1, 2009

• #20

Life is good so far. Head went to shop, getting magnafluxed, hot tanked, slightly skimmed to ensure it's straight, cleaned to like new, all for $125. If valve seals are needed another $20. Can't beat that. Also, finished up my driver's seat except one little bit. Looks really good. Armor alled the vinyl on it and it's better looking than I thought it would be. Now, if anyone has a water pump housing for a Spitfire 1500 that's clean and in decent shape, please let me know. I am hoping to avoid paying the $160 for a new one if possible. A new radiator and return pipe assembly are on the list, also.

With my Spitfire at least taken care of in terms of parts to make it run, I just have cosmetic issues to deal with. Some lens cleaning of tailights, etc. Easy stuff. Plus bleeding brakes until the rear ones decide to do their fair share...

On a totally different note, I've found a TR4 with a solid frame, runs and drives, has a few bits of rust and two small rust through areas. I'm debating about buying it. Price is right, so we'll see. I have free storage and transportation already lined up.