TR 3Control Head

With all the help I received from the forum menbers I finally got the wires through the stator tube. Now the problem is that the control head will turn with the steering wheel. I have the nut on the tube along with the compression nut and it's tight. Is this nut and olive the only thing that keeps the tube from turning? I did notice the olive has a slit in it. Should it be there or do I need a new one? I have the grub scews tight on the steering wheel and if I hold the center with one hand it does not turn . It just seems that the conrol head is to tight. I hope I have explained this well enough for you guys to find my problem.
Thanks
Greg

Yup, the nut & olive are the only things keeping the tube from turning. The slit is apparently normal.

Possibilities include :

1) Tube is slipping in olive. Get someone to turn the wheel while you watch the exposed end of the tube to see if it turns. The original olive was not the same as a common plumbing compression sleeve, but AFAIK that is all that is available today. If that is what you have, you may need to fabricate a washer or something so the nut can bear against it hard enough to grip the tube firmly.

2) Dimples on short tube (back of control head) are not engaged with the slot of the stator tube.

3) Stator tube is broken. The usual place for them to break is right at the bottom of the slot; which might explain that burr I think you mentioned before.

Note that the grub screws do not keep the head from turning; instead they lock the canceling mechanism (the flat plate) to the steering wheel so it is forced to turn with the wheel. I suspect having the canceling mechanism bind is the leading reason for the tube to break.

Hmm, another way to check #1 if you don't have a helper available would be to make a mark (Sharpie or scratch) on the exposed tube end then turn the wheel and check if the mark moves.

Randel, The olive I have does have a shoulder on it so I think it's the right one. The control head is new and I checked to make sure that the short tube is engaged in the slot on the long one as far as it can go. When you have the control head in hand, the flat plate that the grub screws hold, and the short tube turn really hard. It looks to me as if it is spring loaded and might be binding there. How easy are those parts supposed to turn. Also there are three little scews that go though the canceling plate. Are those supposed to be real tight? Yes the stator tube does turn at the steering box.
Thanks
Greg

mountainman said:

... When you have the control head in hand, the flat plate that the grub screws hold, and the short tube turn really hard.
Greg

Click to expand...

When you have the control head in hand, you should be able to hold the plastic part of the head and turn the flat plate easily. Try loosening the grub screws and see if the head stays put when you turn the wheel. If so, then the problem sounds like it's in the control head.

Edit: Also, those "three little screws" you are referring to are those the ones you can see through the holes in the flat plate?? If so, then they should be tight.

mountainman said:

Yes the stator tube does turn at the steering box.

Click to expand...

Then the compression fitting (olive) is not gripping the stator tube tightly enough to prevent rotation -- which is its job. Make it do its job.

Moseso said:

mountainman said:

Yes the stator tube does turn at the steering box.

Click to expand...

Then the compression fitting (olive) is not gripping the stator tube tightly enough to prevent rotation -- which is its job. Make it do its job.

Click to expand...

While I generally agree with you Moses, Greg mentioned that "When you have the control head in hand, the flat plate that the grub screws hold, and the short tube turn really hard."

That shouldn't be, as I went out to see how easy the one I have in the garage turned, and it turned very easily. I may be wrong, but I think he has a problem up top.

If the turn signal lever is in the center, then the plate should turn easily. It does take some force to cancel the turn signals, but you should be able to do it with your bare hands without too much trouble. If it's stiff all the time, or you can't grip the plate tightly enough to cancel the turn signals, then something is wrong inside the head.


All of the screws should be "normally" tight, I wouldn't say any of them have to be "real tight". The grub screws (through the steering wheel hub) basically pinch the plate against the wheel, so they don't need to be really tight either.

Thanks guys. My problem must be in the control head because it does not turn easily at all. It is a shame to pay good money for new parts and have this much aggrevation with them. Now I will have to deal with the supplier.
Thanks again
Greg