Convertible Top

Hey Guys,

Again, I think that I have been dumb and happy.

My car has a replacement Robbins top, in nearly-new condition. The front edge has a nice padded "fold" on it that I assumed just got stuffed up into the space after the top was attached to the windshield. In fact, I thought it was a good idea, as my original top in 1958 didn't have it!

Well, I picked up my car from Ed yesterday, at Eclectic Sportscar Services (blatant plug), and since it was raining, I installed the top and side curtains. As I was putting on the top, Ed mentioned that it was not set up correctly, that the fold was supposed to be bent over, drilled for the Texas fastener, folded over and made part of the front. Is this correct?

I have two photos, if I can post them here: the first photo shows the top and fold, and the second one shows my holding it folded over. I suspect that Ed is correct, as you can see the unpadded sections of the fold that match up with the Tenax.

One question: When I punch the new holes, do I make the fold EVEN WITH the front edge of the top, or pull it back a little so that it doesn't show? Needless to say, I do not want to ruin my top!!

As usual, thanks in advance. Also as usual, I hope these photos will load. I have never loaded TWO before.

this link may help if your talking about what I think you are.

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...flap#Post569296

or https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u..._ins#Post560128

George - You can always rely on someone finding the correct answers for you. Do a search and you may find (like this one) that someone has already asked the same question previously.

BTW, you can only add one photo at a time. Or you can make an financial contribution to this forum and they will allow you to add several photos in one batch. Or you can add one photo to one text message, and then follow it with a 2nd message to display your second photo.

Man! Thanks Don and Perry! I obviously had NO IDEA what Ed was talking about. When I finally saw your photos, lightening went off! So, I called Ed, to be sure that HE understood, and he said, "That's what I TOLD you!"

Well, I bought an Empire revolving punch, the the biggest hole is only 3/16". So, tomorrow I will make another trip over to my friend's house who has an upholstery shop. He lent me his Lift-the-Dot punch, so I am sure that he will lend me a 1/2" punch. Then, just a quick 8 holes, and I am gone. Famous last words.

Thanks again everybody. Where would I be without BCF?

Here's a coupla pix from an original top, now resting in the garage:


The folds on top of each other.


The back of the folds



Moving the folds together, so they line up

Kevin - The photos you show are not from an original top. I still have my original top from when I bought my 1958 TR3A brand new. All along the top front edge, there is a furry flex strip (much like velour velvet finish) about 1" wide and 3/8" thick from one side to the other along the top edge of the top where it gets fitted to the pegs along the top of the windscreen. The original top has no holes as the repro tops need.

Yes, Don, I remember the fuzz strip well. AS you know, my TR was also a 58. That top went up alot easier than this one does, BTW. Of course, this one is newer, and has hardly ever been used.

Well, I punched 1/2" holes today in the flap. My problem now is that I need to change nearly all of my Tenax fasteners, as they do not grasp the studs anymore, if there is any kind of pressure on them. I have ordered 8 from TRF, as I have already replaced 2 of them. If the new ones will not hold, I will be back with more questions.

I missed a car show today, as I was finishing the top. I washed it and will wax it tomorrow, so I will be ready for the next show, probably in a week or two. Texas is NUTS about car shows! (Nearly every weekend during the summer.)

I had the same problem with new Tenax that came with my top. I swapped them out with the originals.

George - Remove the old Tenax pegs along the top of the chromed frame and look at the new ones when you get them. The new ones are made long for the MGA or some other car that needs them longer than a TR3, TR3A or TR3B. You may have to shorten the threaded end to match the length of the old ones you remove. You might use a hand file or a grinding wheel.

IF YOU JUST GO AHEAD AND SCREW IN THE NEW (LONGER) ONES, YOU WILL CRACK THE GLASS IN YOUR WINDSHEILD.

Don, I was not planning on replacing the studs, just the female fasteners. Am I OK in doing this? I may be naive, but "what could go wrong" with studs? On the females that do not work, I can look right at them and see why: the inner spring is "gone." One thing was surprising, a stud was too big to fit into the fastener! So, I filed it down and it works fine.

Thanks for the warning on the longer studs. Yes, that would be a terrible thing to learn the hard way.

Sorry George - When I saw where you had written "Tenax fasteners", I visualized Tenax pegs.