• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

Oil burning at cold start

Share this page

D

DirkRoels

Freshman Member
Offline
Hi,
When I start up my engine after a couple of days, it always gives a lot of smoke for a few seconds. Once it idles normal, the smoke disappears and the car runs without smoke.
I'm just back from a 1000 mile trip, and the oil level is almost at the same level when I left, so I don't consider that it burns a lot of oil during normal operation only at start. Has anyone an idea what might be the cause of it?
The oil gets black farely quickly.
When starting with the engine still warm, I don't have the smoke.
????
Thanks
Dirk
 
Patrick67BJ8

Patrick67BJ8

Obi Wan
Silver
Country flag
Offline
DirkRoels said:
Hi,
When I start up my engine after a couple of days, it always gives a lot of smoke for a few seconds. Once it idles normal, the smoke disappears and the car runs without smoke.
I'm just back from a 1000 mile trip, and the oil level is almost at the same level when I left, so I don't consider that it burns a lot of oil during normal operation only at start. Has anyone an idea what might be the cause of it?
The oil gets black farely quickly.
When starting with the engine still warm, I don't have the smoke.
????
Thanks
Dirk
Click to expand...
One thing comes to mind...worn valve guides and seals. There's a rubber type of cap that is much better than the original "O" ring but I don't remember who makes them.
Patrick
 
Randy Forbes

Randy Forbes

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Perfect Circle are the brand of valve guide seals on mine, but thy've been on there so long, I can't remember if the guide had to be machined to accept them.

But your symptom definitely sounds like the oil is getting past the valve stems once the "explosions" stop.

Another (driving) test, is to be going down the highway (4th-direct) at about 4000 RPM (or higher) and quickly lift completely off the throttle; the high-vacuum condition should try to suck anything that will move into the combustion chambers (oil past the guides being the most likely).

Then there are combustion and leak-down tests you can try...
 
H

Healey 100

Jedi Warrior
Offline
My Healey did the same thing after a rebuild and it was definitely bad valve stem seals. In my case, the aftermarket umbrella seals my rebuilder used interfered with the valve springs and they worked the seals off the stems. We replaced the seals with smaller ones and there is absolutely no smoke now.

This happens on a cold start because oil on the valve stems and rocker arms drips down past the seals and pools into the cylinders by gravity after the engine is stopped. The leaking is normally too slow to produce any oil smoke when she is running or when restarted after sitting for a short time (warm start).

If your oil consumption is low, this is mostly a cosmetic problem, though it left heavy black deposits on my intake valve stems. Fixing the seals requires removing the head, though some mechanics say it can be done with the head in place. The valve springs and keepers need to come off to get new seals in place.

Good luck!
 
OP
D

DirkRoels

Freshman Member
Offline
Thanks guy's for the advice, I have seen some valve stem seals at AH spares in the UK, will first try to replace them. If that doesn't work I see to replace the valve guides.
 
nevets

nevets

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
My knowledge is not very deep here, but just wondering...wouldn't worn valve guides result in continuous oil entry into the combustion chamber, not just at cold start? Or does the metal expand once warm to produce a better seal? 1000 miles without oil loss doesn't seem so bad.
 
Randy Forbes

Randy Forbes

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
nevets said:
My knowledge is not very deep here, but just wondering...wouldn't worn valve guides result in continuous oil entry into the combustion chamber, not just at cold start? Or does the metal expand once warm to produce a better seal? 1000 miles without oil loss doesn't seem so bad.
Click to expand...
That, plus the presence of positive pressure (75% of the time) keeps it from sucking in the oil while running. Of course if the guides/stems are worn enough, you will get some oil consumption then too, hence my "driving test" above.
 
GregW

GregW

Yoda
Platinum
Country flag
Offline
Hi Dirk,
Has the engine ever been rebuilt? If the oil gets black quickly, you may have some worn piston rings too. FWIW
 
Keoke

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
Offline
Yep lke every one has said he has Bad valve seals snd guides and a bit of blow by too.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
OP
D

DirkRoels

Freshman Member
Offline
I have done the accelleration test as Randy explained, but don't see a lot of smoke when doing so (I saw modern cars with more smoke coming out of the tailpipe).
After the test I took out my spark plugs and saw that the n° 2 and 4 spark plug have some greasy look, whilst the other ones are nicely dry and gray.
Think I will take the engine appart this winter and look what is going on (in Belgium winters are too cold and wet anyhow to drive a convertible)
cheers

Dirk
 
Patrick67BJ8

Patrick67BJ8

Obi Wan
Silver
Country flag
Offline
DirkRoels said:
I have done the accelleration test as Randy explained, but don't see a lot of smoke when doing so (I saw modern cars with more smoke coming out of the tailpipe).
After the test I took out my spark plugs and saw that the n° 2 and 4 spark plug have some greasy look, whilst the other ones are nicely dry and gray.
Think I will take the engine appart this winter and look what is going on (in Belgium winters are too cold and wet anyhow to drive a convertible)
cheers

Dirk
Click to expand...
You can save the expense of a major $$$$ job and do just the valve seals(get the "aftermarket" ones that actually work)and you'll be satisfied with the results and have money left over for a hardtop! I had the same problem several years ago.
Patrick
 
G

Genos2

Jedi Trainee
Offline
If #2&4 are wet,they aren't firing properly, if at all. I would check wire resistance,compression,clean plugs w/propane torch&switch to different cylinder. Run engine for a bit &recheck,If still wet plugs,do a leak-down on cylinders. Hope this helps, cheers Genos2
 
cpbol

cpbol

Freshman Member
Offline
I replaced the valve stem seals in my AH 3000 a year ago with the umbrella style from Moss. 1000 miles later and my engine has been burning as much oil as gas (darn near), so I pulled the head to get a closer look. The cylinder bores look pristine and I had good compression before I pulled it apart. The first thing I noticed after looking at the disassembled head is the valve stem seals I replaced a 1000 miles ago are SHREDDED. The valves are nice and tight in the guides, but the seals are gone. It was blowing smoke badly, mostly under acceleration. What valve stem seals are the "good ones"? I guess it's time for a total head rebuild?
 
M

mgtf328

Jedi Hopeful
Country flag
Offline
I have exactly the same problem. You can change the seals with the head on the car you need to feed rope into the cylinder through the plug hole to stop the valve from dropping. Then you need a tool to lever the spring down so you can remove the valve spring locking mechanism. There are some video's on Utube that show how it's done but not on a Healey.

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZ5nZhDdAMs
[/FONT]
Worth a try, if it deosn't work then you have to take the head off.
Yes a winter job for me.
Dirk, are you going to the Belgium Classic in Brugge this weekend. If so, see you there for a chat. Red BJ8 Registration No. ending 134D
AJ
 
nevets

nevets

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
Here's a crazy thought....could it be condensation in your exhaust system? Maybe the smoke isn't oil burning, but the condensation vaporizing??? just wondering...
 
Healey Nut

Healey Nut

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
Take one of the cheap neoprene seals that are supplied in the head gasket set to a good hydraulic supply house and ask them for the Viton equivalent. They should be either brown or a greenish colour .
I have them in both my Running Healeys and also in the Tri Carb engine I just rebuilt . No modifications needed , direct replacement , last longer , no oil burning .
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
HighAltitudeTR3 TR2/3/3A Just started burning some oil... Triumph 8
KVH TR4/4A I Can't Stop Burning Oil; Engine Missing at Take Off Triumph 5
J New engines burning oil, Too much fuel? Triumph 14
athenssprite Smoke - oil burning Spridgets 5
athenssprite heavy smoke on start up - burning oil Spridgets 13
2wrench TR6 TR6 Burning/losing oil, what do you think? Triumph 7
D Burning Oil Triumph 7
D New rebuilt engine-burning oil after 700 miles?? Triumph 5
Webb Still Burning Oil? What Type of Oil to Use? Triumph 20
Hegg Elan +2 is burning oil [come on in and laugh!] Lotus 8
D MGA Oil Burning MGAs MG 2
1 TR2/3/3A TR2/3 Oil Leak Where Oil Sending Pipe Connects to the Block Triumph 4
Jim_Gruber Correct Transmission Oil for Datsun 210 5-speed Spridgets 1
af3683 TR2/3/3A Recommended Oil Filter Cartridge for Purolator Triumph 8
R oil pressure Spridgets 2
RickPA Overdrive Oil Pressure Austin Healey 8
6 Valve Oil Seals Spridgets 10
RJS TR4/4A Smiths Oil Temp Gauge Triumph 11
J MGB Oil Pressure Gauge Gives Constant Reading -- Doesn't Seem Right MG 15
Lotuswins Dry Spin-On Oil Filter Austin Healey 14
Todd78d Oil Spridgets 6
Erica General MG Oil Drain Valve -- mine is an MGB, but they have others MG 3
G Right-Side Shock Weeping Oil Austin Healey 1
scottkilpatrick TR4/4A Gear oil and choke question Triumph 4
D TR2/3/3A cylinder head oil plug bolt size Triumph 6
G High Oil Pressure Austin Healey 2
T Spin-On Oil Filters for Cars with a Brake Servo Austin Healey 3
Bayless What oil for Datsun 5 speed? Spridgets 7
T Spin-On Oil Filters Anti-Drain Back Valves Austin Healey 0
T Spin-On Oil Filters Austin Healey 1
K TR2/3/3A Old school penetrating oil? Triumph 24
R TR6 question re: Engine Oil Triumph 3
nevets Spin-On Oil Filter Adaptor Austin Healey 12
D Overdrive Stops Working After Oil Change Austin Healey 26
AUSMHLY BJ8 Differential Oil Change Austin Healey 6
Celtic 77 General MG Lever shock oil refiller MG 0
I MGB Sprung an (oil) Leak! MG 2
sim oil pressure gage bad or engine needs rebuild It starts our cold at 60 psi but when warm it down to 10 psi Spridgets 21
S TR2/3/3A Aluminum oil gallery plugs Triumph 9
WHT Oil Sump Question For Dougie Austin Healey 0
Joel Lester TR2/3/3A Priming new engine with oil Triumph 9
A TR6 spin on oil filter for tr6 Triumph 4
RJS General TR Oil Pressure Gauge - Test Triumph 11
RJS TR4/4A R&R Oil Pressure Gauge Triumph 7
LD-Ordie TR2/3/3A Canister Oil Filters Triumph 9
B Oil (or Coolant) Leak Austin Healey 10
K Usual 1275 rear main oil leak question Spridgets 0
S TR2/3/3A Removing a stuck oil drain plug Triumph 13
kodpkd 1961 BT7 engine oil Austin Healey 31
Celtic 77 MGB 77 MG B oil cooler MG 5

Similar threads

Top