TR2/3/3A TR3 floor replacement. Engine in or out?

Does it matter is the engine is in/out of the car when replacing the floorboards? She has slabs of sheet metal just resting in there now with a couple of tack welds.

I have the front apron and cross-brace off as well - does that matter?

Doors are still on and fit is good currently







Thanks!

I have replace floors both with the motor/trans in and removed. It is alot easier with them out, but it can be done without removing them. I place the car as high up on jack stands as possible so that I can access both top and bottom. If Gear oil, grease and gasoline are present, take precaustions. Once you have your old floors out, trial fit the new floors before you start welding, making sure exactly where you want them. The area where the firewall meets the front of the floor should slid forward under the firewall/footwell area, usually that area is rusted out. I prefer to spot weld floors in so that it is like it was originally attached. Good luck, Bill C, Mesa, Az.

In my reading and looking at other restoration pictures the engine is frequently out. However the tub should be braced and you will need to remove your doors. I'm leaving on vacation in minutes. I want a full report when I get back in 10 days as I'll be taking the floors on when I get back.

Paul
P.S. Is it not funny how everyone always talks about Rust-free Califonia cars!

Depends on how quick you are... my six month long floor panel replacement has been much easier with the body off the engine/frame/trans.

(It is a year-long b/c I found other rust... sills, etc.)

However, when actually welding the floor, I put the whole car back together to get the proper alignment. I welded maybe 25% of the floor like that, then picked up the car and finished the welding. I've got the body hanging from two chain hoists hanging off the garage trusses.

Good luck! It was my first time, and boy is the learning curve steep!! (But not too bad... just be patient.)