TR2/3/3A 1960 TR3 Post 60000 elec equipment

I'm mounting such things as the control box, fuse block, flasher and starter solonoid and I have some questions. I think I know where it all goes except for the fuse block. Does anyone have a picture of where all of that should be mounted? A picture of the wiring harness showing where it comes through the fire wall would be great also.
Does the solonoid need to be isolated wirh rubber grommets? The mounting holes seem to be quite large, about 9/16" in fact.
I see some spire nuts on the firewall in the right spot for where the control box goes. A picture that I have shows what seems to be pan headed screws, anyone know what size?
Where does the horn relay go? I think I just answered my own question. The lucas horn manual shows a horen relay for the 6 volt but not the 12 volt system.

Thanks for any info anyone can provide, Tinkerman

I harvested a lot of engine bay pics off of eBay while looking for parts and collecting information for my rebuild. This one is fairly clear, of a "1960 TR3."

The big holes for the solenoid and the voltage regulator take a push-in spire nut insert, and a #12 (i think) round head sheet metal screw.

But the screws for the regulator aren't exactly "round head sheet metal screws". According to the Standard Hardware catalog, they were #10 "Mushroom head" "Parker Kalon J type" (whatever that means) and "For use with Simmonds Fix Nuts".

No horn relay originally, but IMO it's a good modification. Mine is mounted above the driver's left knee, where it's practically impossible to see unless you know to look there, but not too hard to service. I couldn't find a "horn" relay that would work without modification, so mine is modified to work with the stock wiring system.

Dick - In the photo Moses attached, the Comm. No. plate is in the wrong place as well as the relay for the directional signals. It should look like the green TR3A (TS 81551 L) that we finished in 2006.

Tink,

Here's a page from TeriAnn's site that has all of the bulkhead fittings and holes mapped out. It should help with the location of those electrical items as well as other stuff. I found it very helpful when assembling my TR. BTW, this is for post 60k cars.

Tinkerman said:

...Does the solonoid need to be isolated wirh rubber grommets?...

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As noted, no. In fact I think that solenoid has to be grounded (mounted metal to metal) to work (though I could be worng about that).

Geo, you are correct. The starter solenoid grounds through it's casing.

If not grounded, it doesn't work.

Thanks all of you for your thoughts and pictures. Art, thanks for the link to Teri Ann's website. I doesn't get any bettwer than that diagram. WOW

Cheers, Tinkerman

Dick

I am enjoying your TRials and TRibulations as you work on your car. I have started on my project after taking it apart 17 years ago. I am in North Little Rock. I went to Webb School in Bell Buckle if you are near there.

Steve Bonds

Steve, I have sent you a PM re the above.

Cheers, tinkermam

I had no idea the starter solinoid was grounded in that way. Thanks

mallard said:

I had no idea the starter solinoid was grounded in that way. Thanks

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The BCF has been and is, an amazing source of info. Gotta love the forum!!!!!!!

Tinkerman