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TR2/3/3A TR3A Fuel Pump Refurbish
- Thread starter mapleaf
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TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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It varies, but some of them are much more aggressive than the typical spray. I used some stuff years ago that would clean the skin right off of your hands in just a few minutes. But I think it's illegal in CA now.mapleaf said:
Even the spray cleaners have gotten a lot milder since they basically outlawed methylene chloride and perchloroethane.
Moseso
Jedi Knight
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I've always used lacquer thinner to clean carbs. It seems to do a fine job of dissolving old fuel deposits. Of course, I've always worked in wood shops where it was easy to come by -- always in stock. I don't know about CA anymore, but any hardware store around here has it.
rlandrum
Jedi Trainee
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I've used the dipping type. The results were... unimpressive. I found the dremel to be one of the best cleaning tools. They make little abrasive sponge wheels (brown, black, and purple) that remove anything and leave a very nice finish.
That, plus the dremel wire wheels for the tight spots. I suspect a good stiff toothbrush and some carb cleaner would have a similar effect.
Once cleaned, wipe down with a good prep-all pre-paint cleaner. Brake cleaner works too.
On the larger items, I tend to prefer the wire wheel of a bench grinder. Difficult to manage parts get blasted in the cabinet.
That, plus the dremel wire wheels for the tight spots. I suspect a good stiff toothbrush and some carb cleaner would have a similar effect.
Once cleaned, wipe down with a good prep-all pre-paint cleaner. Brake cleaner works too.
On the larger items, I tend to prefer the wire wheel of a bench grinder. Difficult to manage parts get blasted in the cabinet.
I started out with a 48 hour soak in carb cleaner. Practically no difference than when I put it in.
I then soaked in Purple Power for about 24. I buy this by the 2.5 gallon size and when degreasing something, will soak my part for a day or two. It's also an effective paint stripper too. The fuel pump came out with about 80% of the deposits off, and with a little brush and dremel action, was able to get the rest.
I then soaked in Purple Power for about 24. I buy this by the 2.5 gallon size and when degreasing something, will soak my part for a day or two. It's also an effective paint stripper too. The fuel pump came out with about 80% of the deposits off, and with a little brush and dremel action, was able to get the rest.
Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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I have sandblasted my fuel pump a couple of times as Frank mentions. And also the one I carry as my spare. I also do it on other aluminium parts like the intake manifold, etc. for a quick and easy way to make them look new again.
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
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If you really want to make them look good............this is over the top for most, but I was playing with ideas.
https://www.74tr6.com/fuelpump.htm
The kits from TRF were good, but lacked a new pin with clips, the mesh screens and a (EDIT) retaining cup that fits over the seal for the diaphragm shaft. I do have a new batch that were polished at Advanced Distributors and new kits from a great supplier here in NE that have screens, pins and diaphragms and bottom seals made specifically for today's gasolines, so I'll be doing a new page on that very soon. No financial interest on my part.
https://www.maritimedragracing.com/then_and_now_automotive.htm
https://www.74tr6.com/fuelpump.htm
The kits from TRF were good, but lacked a new pin with clips, the mesh screens and a (EDIT) retaining cup that fits over the seal for the diaphragm shaft. I do have a new batch that were polished at Advanced Distributors and new kits from a great supplier here in NE that have screens, pins and diaphragms and bottom seals made specifically for today's gasolines, so I'll be doing a new page on that very soon. No financial interest on my part.
https://www.maritimedragracing.com/then_and_now_automotive.htm
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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That's interesting. The TR3 kit I got from them did include the screen & shaft seal (they even advertise that they've found a source for it). The original TR3 pump did not use a replaceable pivot pin with clips, so that is not included.Brosky said:
PS Glass beads in the blasting cabinet do make aluminum look mighty nice. I didn't bother with the fuel pump, but the clutch and brake cylinders came out like new.
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:](they even advertise that they've found a source for it)[/QUOTE]
Randall I don't doubt you at all, but I had several discussions with Albert (Chas son) about that and at the time they were still looking for a source for the steel cups that fit over the seal, but that was about 18 months ago.
And my kits were all for a TR6, so maybe they had screens and seals for a TR3, but everything that came in the kit is shown on my web pages. And as you can see, no screen or shaft/clips.
BUT....there are two seals for the shaft, but no steel cup to replace the one that gets destroyed when you try to remove it to get at the seal.
I got the kits in last week and when my wife gets back with her digital camera, I'll take a picture of the entire package and post it.
Randall I don't doubt you at all, but I had several discussions with Albert (Chas son) about that and at the time they were still looking for a source for the steel cups that fit over the seal, but that was about 18 months ago.
And my kits were all for a TR6, so maybe they had screens and seals for a TR3, but everything that came in the kit is shown on my web pages. And as you can see, no screen or shaft/clips.
BUT....there are two seals for the shaft, but no steel cup to replace the one that gets destroyed when you try to remove it to get at the seal.
I got the kits in last week and when my wife gets back with her digital camera, I'll take a picture of the entire package and post it.
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