Sound deadening

Has anyone tried this stuff?
https://www.secondskinaudio.com/

I'm going to give it a shot in the cabin/tunnel/underdash area to see if we can quiet things a bit.

It looks really good. I will probably use some if I ever get around to painting my hardtop.

I've used similar stuff and it makes a big difference. You'll be pleased with it. Do the inside of the doors as well if you have access - doors will shut with a solid "thunk" and you'll smile every time you close them.

Apply it when it is warm out, which would be pretty much anytime given your location I think. <grin>

Tom,

You're invoking the dreaded "shipwrights disease", found commonly on these cars.

I'm talking about working on the roof and you've got me inside the doors.

And I'll have to wait for June for it to get warm enough.

Doors....Floor...Tranny Tunnel.....Rear Deck.....Trunk...... Go for it Paul....Time to tear the car apart again.....you've had it back together for a few months now. You must be getting itchy!

Brosky said:

Tom,

You're invoking the dreaded "shipwrights disease", found commonly on these cars.

I'm talking about working on the roof and you've got me inside the doors.

And I'll have to wait for June for it to get warm enough.

Click to expand...

Oh really now, like your site hasn't provoked "shipwrights" in any of us - LOL. I'm starting at my heater box and then hitting your write up, looking at the heater box, looking at your write up, thinking hmmmm....

Seriously though, putting the material on inner doors makes a nice difference.

Why do you want to quite things down?? The noises are part of the experience of driving these cars. If I want quite, I'll take the daily driver. Besides, it adds <span style="font-weight: bold">WEIGHT!!!</span> A big no-no.

I used second skin on my B, and it made a big difference in sound. Not so much in heat transfer though. Still will need a heat shield above the exhaust. Didn't do the doors, but intend to while it's apart this winter. I only drive with the top down, so the only "noise" is exhaust and air flowing by where my hair used to be and that's a necessary part of the car.
On the GT6, I have heard about the heat from the tunnel and since I'm not sold on the heat aspects of a second skin type product I need a better solution for that, what is the general experience on Spit/Gt tunnel heat protection?
Mike

Sound deadening is good, but overkill for some applications, IMHO. Certainly we could tear out the entire interior to apply sound deadening material on every interior surface, but that's a bit much for most.

I really don't want my LBC to sound like a new-er car and enjoy the "noise". Most Triumphs are <span style="font-style: italic">supposed</span> to rattle a bit, since the body is bolted to the frame! However, some LBCs suffer from excessive cockpit heat (Healeys; GT6s; Spits, etc.). In these cars, DynaMat or a non-flammable sound deadening material is useful.

Use a modern material that's specific for the job: read the label, do NOT introduce anything flammable in your cockpit - this is why it pays to purchase a material that's specifically designed for automotive sound deadening, such as DynaMat, etc.

On my GT6s, I apply DynaMat to the entire inside surface of the gearbox tunnel cover with really good results. Lining the tunnel cover renders a dramatic reduction in cockpit heat. Also, applying it to the firewall and floor pans helps reduce heat and noise, as does sealing the gearshft lever hole off. Sealing the gearshift lever hole also keeps fumes from entering the cockpit, a <span style="text-decoration: underline">big</span> improvement in safety and comfort, I've found.

Just be sure to use a fire-resistant, approved material.

martx-5 said:

Why do you want to quite things down?? The noises are part of the experience of driving these cars. If I want quite, I'll take the daily driver. Besides, it adds <span style="font-weight: bold">WEIGHT!!!</span> A big no-no.

Click to expand...

I hear you (no pun intended), but the rattles don't enhance my driving pleasure. With sound deadening in place I can hear the intake, engine, and exhaust and road noises more clearly now. So in my case, it has actually <span style="font-weight: bold">added</span> to the enjoyment.

Again, just my personal experience. I have seen people go overboard with it....

I do have some in the doors, though not this product. They may get re-done this summer AFTER I actually get to drive the car to a lot of events and on weekends as planned.

Besides, BobbyD, Al of Trick6 fame and I have a few tee times to fill, so that will be a distant priority.

BobbyD said:

Doors....Floor...Tranny Tunnel.....Rear Deck.....Trunk...... Go for it Paul....Time to tear the car apart again.....you've had it back together for a few months now. You must be getting itchy!

Click to expand...

<span style="color: #990000">BobbyD- the clutch on my car came to us with a broken
fork taper pin. The Previous Owner had glued some black WalMart quality
carpet directly to all the surfaces you mentioned above.

AFTER I got that mess cleaned out, a new clutch installed, etc-
I installed an aluminum faced heat shield everywhere (door included)
under the new TRF wool carpet.

The car is now much cooler to drive on our hot tropical roads, it makes
much less bucket of bolts noises and very little engine heat scorches us
now. Well worth the time and effort.

dale</span>

martx-5 said:

Why do you want to quite things down?? The noises are part of the experience of driving these cars. If I want quite, I'll take the daily driver. Besides, it adds <span style="font-weight: bold">WEIGHT!!!</span> A big no-no.

Click to expand...

I like certain TR3 noises but not the buzzing that comes from harmonics. I'll go sparingly and this stuff is rather light to begin with....
Many of the 'noises' I plan on dealing with aren't 'original' anyway...once you do a body off nothing ever goes back together perfectly and you build in some resonance/rattles that were not there initially.

A cheaper way to deal with it is never put the top/sidescreens on...you can't hear it in the wind.

OK, I am curious, I have seen several of my Triumph Friends use that (second skin) insulation in their Triumphs. I have always been cautious about insulation in cars because of trapping moisture and then causing RUST to form. Do these alloy composite insulations work or do they also trap moisture? I bought a TR-3 about six months ago that had been sitting under a carport in Scottsdale, Arizona since 1970 with no signs of rust anywhere. When I removed the seats and the junk in the trunk, under the carpet was all rusted out, and full of pinholes. The carpets an insulation had held moisture. The car was from L.A. before Scottsdale. Has anybody had any experience with this type of product and moisture? Thanks, Bill C. Mesa, Az.

Not 100% sure Bill but the one I'm using is made of Butyl backed by an alluminum
skin (the foil side up and the butyl is adhesive backed).
Butyl, by it's nature is air/waterproof (they make tire inner tubes of the stuff) so it will not absorb moisture or let air thru.
Since I'm putting it down on nicely painted surfaces I don't think it'll be much of an issue.

Ok, I put the stuff in...covered the tranny tunnel and floorboards, basically what is covered by the carpeting in front of the seats and halfway up the firewall.
Just a slight improvement really, nothing to get excited about or to invest in.
I think the real issue is once you cover one noise/harmonic you just hear the other ones better!
O well, worth a try anyway.
Happy New Year to all here.

Sounds like you are disappointed, sorry to hear that. Did you do the insides of the doors as well?

Tdskp,
Nope, maybe I'll try a bit there later but I'll give it a rest for a bit on this aspect.
I actually expected more reduction from the drive train etc.
Hey, the dot5 conversion went great, can't expect all of the projects to ace and this is a periphery issue.
That's what I get for putting the top up and sidescreens on...shoulda stuck with the brooklands!

Hello and my .02
I would be careful of putting the aluminum and butyl rubber types on the floor boards. My thoughts are that the stuff does not neccessarily stick to every square inch of the surface. At any point it does not stick there could be the possibility of condensation or other moisture sources and a rust possibility.
On the other hand I used this product called Rammat. PM me and I will send a link. I used on the doors, hard top, rear deck and inner fender wells, under the trunk lid and up the firewall and transmission tunnel.
The noise reduction was fantastic and it still sounds like a LBC and you hear it better as the induce harmonics are deadened.
Cutting and fitting take some effort but no overspray problems with it.
Yes, this did add some weight about 80 pounds but I am not racing and she will still do well over a ton! Well worth it for daily comfort which I drive mine almost daily.
To each his own.
FWIW

You should see his snow plow attachment. Cool.