TR2/3/3A TR3 stood for 15 years

This is my first post as I have just decided to tackle the restoration on my TR3 which has been stood and ignored for 15 years.

What I want advice on is whether it is any use trying to start the engine or will it definitely need a rebuild. Could I do more damage by trying to start it?

I'll let the Tractor motor experts chime in here. But I would change all fluids, rotate the engine by hand a few times (should have a hand crank) with the plugs out, and give her a rip.

If it has been stored dry, as in indoors and out of the weather, especially if you are in a wet section of the UK,

Pull the plugs and squirt a liberal amount of your favorite penetrating oil in the cylinders and let it sit for a few days, and then do it again.

While it is sitting, change at least the engine oil, and make sure the coolant is topped up.

Penetrating oil aimed at any seals you can reach is a good idea too.

then do the hand turn and try to start.

First of all, welcome aboard! My TR3 sat for about fifteen years before I was able to afford a full blown restoration. Of course, the car was in the garage the whole time, so if I had wanted to start it, it would not have been a problem. So much depends on how the car was stored during those years. If it was outside, then chances are you could run into some problems trying to start it. TR6BILL's recomendation of trying to hand crank over the motor is the first thing to do. If the motor turns freely, then you should be OK trying to start it. The other problem would be if fuel was left in the tank. That stuff really varnishes up when left to sit for years, so your fuel system might need attention.

Of course, this brings me to a question of what a "restoration" means to you. Do you just want to restore things to running order, or do you expect to do a complete frame-off restoration including an engine rebuild??? Tell us more of your plans as it will be easier to advise on what steps to take.

Welcome Gary!

As the others have said, fresh fluids and making sure the engine turns freely with the plugs out is the place to start. Probably a good idea to squirt a small bit of oil down the engine bores when you pull the plugs before turning the engine over and certainly before cranking away.

After sitting for that long the carbs will likely need some going through, as will the brake hydraulics.

I have some first hand experience here as I have a couple projects in a similar state to yours which I'm sorting through - expect some bumps in the road but what a great opportunity all the same.

All of that said - enjoy the process and keep us posted. We love pictures and questions!

Mine had been sitting for nearly 30 years. For the first firing (to decide if the engine had to come out or not), I didn't even bother changing fluids (no sense wasting fresh oil/coolant on an engine in need of a rebuild). Pulled the plugs, sprayed some WD40 equivalent down each plug hole, and spun it on the starter until the oil pressure came up. Stuck the plugs back in and started trying to make it run.

Fuel pump didn't seem to want to deliver fuel and there was some kind of funky valve in place of the original tap; so I wound up using a spare Facet pump for temporary fuel delivery. Points were way out of whack, so I regapped them and ran a new wire from the dizzy to the coil. A little carb cleaner down the throats, a bit more cranking, and it started. Since I hadn't dealt with coolant yet (some serious problems in that department), I shut it back down in just a few seconds. But that was long enough to give me confidence in the rings, bearings and valves.

For the second firing, I changed all the hoses and the thermostat housing. Oddly enough, something inside the engine water jacket was totally blocked, probably the dried remains of the old coolant. But after soaking in CLR for a few days, I was able to get good flow, including out the drain hole in the side. Buttoned it up and filled with just tap water. Engine started easily, idled well after I tweaked the mixture nuts a little richer and I was able to actually make the car move under it's own power!

Long term plans still include replacing the engine and transmisison; but for now I want to concentrate on getting the car back on the road. With any luck, it's off to the paint shop tomorrow!

BTW, I had not originally planned to remove the radiator, as it wasn't leaking and seemed to cool OK. It's been recored at some point in the past, because there is no crank hole. But I wound up removing it anyway and took it to the radiator shop to be checked out. Glad I did, as they said it was 30% blocked and they had to rod it out (remove a tank and force rods through the tubes) to open up the passages. I also had them replace the neck with a modern one, so I can use a higher pressure cap.

When I decided in Sept. 1987 to restore my 1958 TR3A, it had been sitting in my heated dry garage since 1972. I knew that previous to this, it burned oil, etc. but it ran back in 1972. I had to clean the gum varnish from the left-over petrol from the angular air breather vent holes that one finds in the top dome of the SU carbs. It started up. It had 80,000 miles on it while it sat those 15 years. I re-built the engine in 1988 and drove it 94,000 miles more before I re-built it again in 2007 (new rings and honed the cylinder walls). Since then I've driven another 7,000 miles on the latest engine.

They run and run and run.

So, Gary, there are all your answers; you came to the right place in the internet universe for the start of your journey to revive your car. The only thing I'll add is that replacing the spark plugs on my 20+ years slumbering TR3 helped...

Good luck, let us know how you make out!

mrv8q said:

The only thing I'll add is that replacing the spark plugs on my 20+ years slumbering TR3 helped...

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Oh picky, picky, picky Kevin. LOL - yeah, seems kind of obvious now that you point it out that spark plugs (and cap and rotor and plug wires) are all in scope to be refreshed.

Good catch Kevin!

Yes, Gary. It is worth a try. As long as you take the above precautions then you should try and start the car. If it does any damage, it will only be to the parts that you would have to replace or repair anyway. It is always good to know how the engine is running before you decide whether you need to rebuild it. It is also fun trying to get it going!

NickMorgan said:

Yes, Gary. It is worth a try. As long as you take the above precautions then you should try and start the car. If it does any damage, it will only be to the parts that you would have to replace or repair anyway. It is always good to know how the engine is running before you decide whether you need to rebuild it. It is also fun trying to get it going!

Click to expand...

<span style="color: #990000">Welcome to the BCF Gary - a lot of great knowledge.
Three years ago my wife purchsed a "mostly restored" old British car
from a local lad. I knew nothing about auto mechanics at all back then.

The good folks here helped me learn, told me what parts to purchase.
So for a few $$ hundred in new parts, a few Sears tools, and in a few
weekends of hard work on my part, we had the car almost good as new.

best wishes,

tinster </span>

As purchased :



After joining BCF<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<,,

Well everyone, I'm stunned. I certainly did not expect to get such a fast comprehensive response.

Thanks for all the advice, I will try to get it started. I am sure I will be back many times when I start the restoration proper as the whole body has to come off and I need to learn metal shaping and welding skills to have a chance. (front and rear valance both very bad and haven't even looked at the frame)

I'll try to report progress regularly and upload pics when I get underway, probably in spring.

Thanks again

Gary

Gary, keep your eye on eBay U.S. for decent front and rear valances; ISTR a front valance for a 3A up there very recently... Shipping might be problematic, though.

Besides, we here in the U.S. need to increase our exports!

Gary - there is a thread that just kicked-off on welding for another new member. In short - a good MIG welder will become an indispensable tool and is fairly easy to use with some practice.

Remember - we love pictures and updates here!

Good luck.