BJ8 Trunk Relining Kit Installation

Hello, Healeyophiles! Again, I come on a quest for your knowledge! I started the long-put-off replacement of my original trunk lining and found a problem or two. No surprise there as nothing goes easily on a Healey project. However, these are small problems/questions that I am sure someone can answer. Therefore, rather than do my normal plow ahead and "just do it" I am going to do the smart thing and "ask directions".
First: I purchased 3M trim installation aerosol. There were two choices - the "clear" for light and medium weight work with vinyl, etc. that had "adequate support" and the "yellow" industrial strength for vinyl roof installation, headliner repair, etc. It seemed to me that the "clear" lightweight to medium weight was the right choice so that is what I bought. However, upon removal of the old liner I notice that the original adhesive is definitely yellow in color and the stuff is really, really glued on tight to the point that I have to scrape off the old jute backing in most places. So, should I go get the yellow 3M industrial strength adhesive? And, do I have to remove all of the old adhesive before putting on the new material or just spray over it?
Second question: The wooden support bar for the battery is essentially rotten. I cannot figure out how to remove it from the inside fender panel as the connective devices appear to be threaded onto a stud. However, they are imbedded into the wood.... So, here is my problem: What is the best way to remove this wooden support so I can replace it with a good piece of wood?
Thank you very much in advance. Now I am gonna sit here and sip on a nice "cold one" while anticipating all the great advice that is gonna just pour right in!!!!

Thanks, guys! Stever

Hey Stever,
When I did this job I used 3M spray 90 and it was plenty stong enough. The liner materials are pretty light and you are just adhering the jute layer to the metal. Also with the way the liner panels are pushed into place they almost stay in place by themselves. About a year after installing I was taking it out again for the restoration and was glad I hadn't used lots of glue. I was able to use rubber cement thinner to loosen the adhesive and remove the trunk liner without damaging anything. The original adhesive was applied by brush and I would bet the factory used the same adhesive for all the upholstery gluing. The only way to remove it was to media blast it, I would just cover over it at this time.

Doesn't the wood brace for the battery bolt in from the fender side? Take a look under the wing to see if you can see the bolt heads.

Cheers,
John

Hi Steve,

I doubt if I'm saying much that John hasn't already covered.

The light duty adhesive is fine. When you pull the old lining out Just remove any old jute that is not strongly adhered or that will cause lumps under the new. No need to scrape it clear down to metal.The old jute & adhesive that won't readily come off makes a solid base for the new adhesive. Install the vertical parts first.

I "think" John is right about there being nuts on the other side of the inner panels. If things are so rusted that you need to grip the sunken bolt heads to unscrew the bolts, just chisel out a ring of wood around the bolt heads enough to get a socket on them.
D

Sometimes I truly amaze myself with my stupidity! Of course the wood is bolted in from the wing!! I haven't gone down to look at it yet, but it makes imminent sense - the visible fasteners look just like one would imagine if the bolt were coming in from the wing side and the "nut" looks the way these look. I knew I could count on help from you guys! Thanks mucho Dave and John! Regarding the glue residue, I went ahead and took it off - I guess I am kinda anal about things and when I tried mineral spirits on the dry glue it softened and came off pretty well - only took me a couple of hours with a putty knife and tooth brush to clean it all up. I will see what I can do with the wood tomorrow! Thanks again, Stever

Steve,
I just did the trunk lining in my car. It is not a fun thing to do, but you will have a much easier time installing the vertical back panel if you remove the gas tank first. Also, you can get to the bolts on the wooden battery support by taking off the passenger side rear wheel.
Then, reach in behind the rear fender and loosen the bolts. It's an easy job.

Larry

Well, I must report "Success". Of course it took me mucho longer than it should have! One small (NOT) complication was that the rearmost connector rotated with the bolt when I attempted to loosen it. That was probably the worst of it. I have to say the trunk area looks pretty nice now that it is done! Again, thanks to all for the assistance!

I'm jealous, no liner in mine, just lots of metal. It's on my list but far down.

Patton

Patton, I have had this little job on the list for at least fifteen years now and finally decided to "just do it". The previous one wasn't all that bad, but had some paint overspray from a PO repair job and some deterioration around the battery area. However, it really looks nice now, so it was definitely worth it! Now, if my back and backs of my legs would only stop hurting! I think my next little chore will be replacing the rear shocks.

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Now, if my back and backs of my legs would only stop hurting! I think my next little chore will be replacing the rear shocks.

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Terrible position to work in for old folks like me. You can't sit, can't squat, can't kneel, just spend all day humped over. Almost took the boot lid off. If I have to do it again, I will take it off.
D

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Regarding the glue residue, I went ahead and took it off - - only took me a couple of hours with a putty knife and tooth brush to clean it all up.

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Hope you used your spouses, or significant other's toothbrush.
Just kidding.
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