TR6 TR6 Dash

S

saltshaker

Member

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• Jun 22, 2008

• #1

I am starting a restoration of a 72 TR6. What is different members opinion of the wood to use for a new dash. Teak wood, Burl wood, Mahongy, or veneer?
This will not be a stock restoration because the car already has 3 Weber Carb set up. Plus I am going to paint it a Mustang Maroon with tan leather interior. It will be my driver.
Suggestions please!!

 

Brosky

Great Pumpkin

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• Jun 22, 2008

• #2

The general consensus is to use plywood with a veneer finish. This is to prevent cracking, which will happen with solid wood dashes. The originals were made this way as well as the Jag's and Healey's.

If your plywood base isn't all warped and distorted, you can skim off the top with a planer and install a new veneer finish that can be anything that you want it to be. Then you can refinish it either shiny or matte with UV protective varnish.

And welcome to the Forum.

 

N

Norton47

Jedi Warrior

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• Jun 22, 2008

• #3

Cherry veneer mounted to the original dash after removing the original veneer.

This is with a Tung Oil finish.

 

jjbunn

Jedi Knight

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• Jun 22, 2008

• #4

I read somewhere that not any old plywood will do: something about each sheet of ply having the grain perpendicular to the grain of the sheet below? Which prevents warping?

I was fortunate with mine: once I removed the top layer of cracked varnish (or whatever it is), the veneer underneath was still quite decent: I sanded it with 400 grit very carefully, stained it with some red mahogany stain, and then applied several coats of clear polyurethane gloss. Not an authentic look, but pleasing to my eye

 

T

tdskip

Yoda

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• Jun 22, 2008

• #5

Any pictures Julian?

 

jjbunn

Jedi Knight

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• Jun 22, 2008

• #6

Yes, but not a very good one:

I prefer Norton47's ... but a little beyond my skill level

 

DNK

Great Pumpkin

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• Jun 22, 2008

• #7

I say use the original as a base for a new one. It is easier to cut the holes .I just stripped the old finish off and sanded it real well before installing new veneer.
Here is the Dash Redo

 

N

Norton47

Jedi Warrior

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• Jun 23, 2008

• #8

Julian
I never had done a veneer before in my life.
I read the TR6 dash articles and these wood working sites
https://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/why-use-veneer.htm
and got one of these vacuum bag kits.
https://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignArticle.aspx?id=27980
I bought some melamine board that was damage from Home Depot and made these press pieces and went for it.

 

angelfj1

Yoda

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• Jun 23, 2008

• #9

Norton: That job is beautiful! I've had mixed results with veneer. Did you use a vacuum press?

 

angelfj1

Yoda

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• Jun 23, 2008

• #10

Don: I got a dead link.

 

V

vagt6

Guest

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• Jun 23, 2008

• #11

That's a fine looking veneer job, and the wood is not too far from original. The wood veneer in these Triumphs is a huge focal point of the car's overall look, I think.

Nice craftmanship, job well-done! :thumbsup:

 

DNK

Great Pumpkin

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• Jun 23, 2008

• #12

I think link works now, sorry

 

Popeye

Darth Vader

Bronze

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• Jun 23, 2008

• #13

Just a comment - if veneering, remember to veneer both sides of the dash to prevent warping.

 

DNK

Great Pumpkin

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• Jun 23, 2008

• #14

It was veneered for 38 years already, do you still think it needs both sides

 

angelfj1

Yoda

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• Jun 23, 2008

• #15

both my first TR (a 4A) and the 250 were veneered on the front surface while the edges and back were painted or coated with a brown paint. This paint I believe was to seal those surfaces.

 

DNK

Great Pumpkin

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• Jun 23, 2008

• #16

if you look a my pictorial ,first photo shows paint on the back. Always a good idea.

 

N

Norton47

Jedi Warrior

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• Jun 24, 2008

• #17

Angelfj
I did use a vacuum press. That second link in my post is to the type of press I used. They make a kit for doing skateboards and our dashes will fit the big kit bag. Comes with a hand pump.
I tried using lead bricks the first time around and was not happy with the results as the wood I used for platens was not even enough, I think. The second time I just went the vacuum way and it worked like a trick.
I also used a product to soften the veneer and make it more pliable. This I feel help ensure that it pressed down evenly.

 

kodanja

Obi Wan

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• Jun 26, 2008

• #18

Indeed my solid walnut dash is starting to show signs of slight craking afer only 3 years

 

Aldwyn

Jedi Warrior

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• Jun 26, 2008

• #19

As did my solid cherry dash!

It's got several cracks in it now... I will be replacing it in the next year or two with good old French Walnut veneer like the originals, I think.