a bit of an inquiry:

Anyone have a working speedo for a moke? I suppose it's the same as Mini, this is a '64 Smith's with a working fuel gauge. Needle is steady but the odo doesn't move and the thing CLICKS

Dr, it should be the same as any Mini of the period but... like other LBCs there are caveats with gauge replacements.

1) Look near the odo window for the four digit turns-per-mile number (or 3 digit turns-per-kilometer). You'll need to match that number to get a gauge that matches what's in the Moke's transmission.
2) 1964 was a transition year for the gauge systems on the Mini. Before September the Mini didn't include the voltage stabilizer, presumably the Moke would be the same. You say that your fuel gauge works so be sure to retain it as you're likely going to have to move it to the replacement speedo to work with the sender (new and old don't parts don't work together).

If you are lucky the Moke will have a 90 MPH speedo calibrated for 1280 TPM. That is one of the most common speedometers (3.44 final drive and 10" tires).

EDIT: BTW, the odo isn't hung at a reading involving a lot of "9"s is it? This is a common problem for Minis and it's easily addressed by cleaning and rebuilding using the Anthony Rhodes PDF as a guide.

Thanks, Doug. Kinda figured the fuel gauge would need to be kept with the sender. You've confirmed that. I've read the PDF before, haven't pulled this thing out yet to investigate. Didn't think of the 999999 thing. It's "hung" at ~just~ "40000" so I believe you are spot on. We'll have to pull it at a later date for the 'surgery'.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] If you are lucky the Moke will have a 90 MPH speedo calibrated for 1280 TPM. That is one of the most common speedometers (3.44 final drive and 10" tires). [/QUOTE]

I'll pass this thru to the owner. It resides a couple hours away from me, so is a bit hard to read just now. :wink:

I may have two but won't know until June 9th.

Seems the thing has been cobbed at some point. The number is 1376 TPM on the clock face and according to radar clocking the speedo is reading 10 MPH high at indicated 40... so we have a Frankenstein here.

...the mystery deepens...

Dr., these are still Smiths speedometers so an error of 10mph isn't necessarily unexpected... even with the right speedo. Has your friend looked at the odometer reading compared to driving a measured distance? That will be a much better indication of whether it's the right speedo since the ODO is hard geared.

If you have access to the car or if your friend can perform a few basic tests you can determine what the Moke really needs. First write down the tire size. Next, jack up ONE front wheel. Put the car in neutral, pull the dizzy cap and spark plugs. Put a piece of tape on the elevated tire and on the ground just below that piece of tape (as pointers). Likewise, take note of exactly where the dizzy rotor is pointed. Put the car in 4th gear and have a friend SLOWLY turn the elevated wheel until you see the dizzy complete 10 full rotations. Your friend should be counting the number of wheel rotations. (There's a factor of "2" that comes into play here because only one wheel is turning)... but I can't remember if it's multiply or divide. You either take the wheel turns and multiply or divide by two (and move the decimal place one position because of 10 motor revolutions) and you should have a number between 3.1 and 3.6 Whatever the number is will be the final drive in the Moke. Armed with that and the tire size you can go to the Internet Mini Encyclopedia:
https://www.ime.org.uk/
Use the search field there for keywords like speedometer and/or final drive. There are tables there that tell you the turns per mile for various tire and final drive combinations.

I would also suggest your friend look at a different approach. Tell him to consider fitting a Sigma bicycle computer to the dash and not worry about the Smiths. The Sigma computers are well suited to automotive and motorcycle use. You bond or mount the wheel sensor magnet to the Mini driveshaft, make and install a mounting bracket for the speedo, and then extend the wires to allow placement of the readout inside the car. The Sigma units have very fine calibration scale factors to match the wheel size exactly and the Sigma computers allow programming the ODO reading to match what's on the Smiths. All this can be done for around $30 plus your time and sweat equity.

Doug, I love ya to death but this is likely to be more than necessary for the Moke in question. We drove it repeatedly thru radar "traps" (friends-- :wink: ) to check the true MPH against the indicated speed. It will never be taken "out of th' yard" so actual vs. indicated at 35 MPH is a good enuff approximation to serve. We may yank it to go thru the odo so oil changes get done on SOME sort of schedule.

Thanks for the dilligence! Others may find it helpful but we'll likely just drive the silly thing around and enjoy it. It's a grand replacement to an electric golf cart with NO personality and scant roadworthiness at this point.

As an aside: the water pump was leakin' and he got some aluminum housing "thing" as a replacement... I swear it has a wobbly shaft right outta th' boX! Is there a "kit" to rebuild the OEM pump that ya know of? Bearing, seal, etc. We have all summer to source it, so time ain't a factor, just the right bits.

Sorry, gauges are my thing. I love to spout the possibilities and send people to every resource they might ever want to check.

What engine is in the Moke? You can make the better "high-flow" big bore pump fit the smaller engines with a little bit of work. Those pumps use a cast impeller and are generally of quality construction. Google for "gwp134" and you'll find information about this pump.

I haven't seen a rebuild kit for any water pump in years. The last one I personally saw was for an MGB over 30 years ago. Someone may still make them but I haven't seen one.

In addition to being good yard vehicles, they are very popular as paddock vehicles in the vintage racing crowd.

dklawson said:

Sorry, gauges are my thing. I love to spout the possibilities and send people to every resource they might ever want to check.

Click to expand...

:laugh: 's why I posted in th' Mini forum :wink:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]What engine is in the Moke? You can make the better "high-flow" big bore pump fit the smaller engines with a little bit of work. Those pumps use a cast impeller and are generally of quality construction. Google for "gwp134" and you'll find information about this pump. [/QUOTE]

850, it's a 1964.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I haven't seen a rebuild kit for any water pump in years. The last one I personally saw was for an MGB over 30 years ago. Someone may still make them but I haven't seen one.[/QUOTE]

rats. ISTR "Special Interest" had rebuild kits for a few different pumps. When they closed their doors we bought a lot of bits (MGB windscreen- $25!) but not any pump kits. out:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]In addition to being good yard vehicles, they are very popular as paddock vehicles in the vintage racing crowd. [/QUOTE]

This'n may see paddock duty, too.

If you hate the replacement water pump the Moke owner has, look into the GWP134. It's a bit more expensive and you have to grind away some clearance for the impeller to fit the small bore block but it's known to move a lot of water without cavitation.

If this is going to be a yard vehicle for a while and a paddock vehicle after that... go for the Sigma BC1600 bicycle speedo. I think it's currently selling for about $35. The '64 Moke should have the rubber cross drive couplings (similar to what I have) and it will not be hard to adapt and calibrate it so you have an accurate speedometer and odometer. The Moke will turn heads and be a great conversation piece. The bicycle speedometer will just add one more thing that people will ask about.

:lol:

I LIKE it! The poor thing has seen some other funky mods in its life so that may have some appeal.

As for the water pump, we'll see how this white box one goes for a bit, I think the thing is junk but it hasn't leaked (yet). I'm disappointed there aren't rebuild kits tho. I'll check out the GWP134 option.