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Finishing the Brass Trunions

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rlandrum

rlandrum

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The TR3A has brass trunions which attach to the lower front A-arms. We painted ours with KBS, but realized that the paint would not stick.

I've removed the paint from one, and I'm planning to do the other tonight.

Should I scuff and clear coat or wax the trunions once they're down to bare brass to keep them from tarnishing, or is it generally accepted that they tarnish, and there's nothing anyone can do about it?
 
TR6oldtimer

TR6oldtimer

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If you really want to do this, have them powder coated with clear.
 
DrEntropy

DrEntropy

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They're low enuff to terra firma they'll get grotty quickly anyhow. And I believe they're bronze, BTW.
 
T

Tinster

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DrEntropy said:
They're low enuff to terra firma they'll get grotty quickly anyhow. And I believe they're bronze, BTW.
Click to expand...

I'm with leavin' them au natural. Doc got me curious
so here is a photo of my 100% rebuilt, powder coated,
all new fasteners, gleaming shiny trunnions -
front suspension...............

after 6 months and only 1,250 miles driven. "grotty"

Don't waste yer effort on the polishin'- my opinion

d

trunnion.jpg
 
CCURTISS

CCURTISS

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Depending on what color you want them you could try to paint them some POR15 which comes in black, silver, gray and clear as I recall, that stuff seems to stick to anything that I have painted so far.
 
T

Tinster

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5:30 PM Island time- AST

I think I'll go drive my grotty trunnions down the coastal
highway and observe the XX large surf. 'Probly stop in at the
Caracol biker bar for a cold one with the Mrs.

I drive :driving:
I drive :driving:

Sometimes, I drive : :driving: my Six



d
 
OP
rlandrum

rlandrum

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Bronze? Really? Wow. I'll leave it bare then.

The way the original had tarnished, I figured brass, which really isn't that far off.
 
DrEntropy

DrEntropy

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Brass'd be ~too~ soft, too brittle, IMO.

Someone with a spectroscopic analysis capability would be more authoratative tho. :wink:
 
AweMan

AweMan

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Here
is the scoop on Bronze and corrosion. And a small mention about Brass verses Bronze. For anyone interested.
 
Tinkerman

Tinkerman

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Yep Bronze. Before I finished assembling mine I sprayed them with a coat of clear finish. Won't last when I start driving it but at least it looks good now. If you use it as a regular daily driver forget about the looks. Just power wash the undersides on a regular basis.

Tinkerman
 
Tinkerman

Tinkerman

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Tinster you must of had a cow when you saw what happened to your beautiful powder coated parts! Maybe the original builders understood what the raveges of road use would do and thats why they left many of those parts the original finish.
I feel for you, those parts were looking great when you PC'd them.

Tinkerman
 
Brosky

Brosky

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The good thing about powder coating chassis parts is that a power washer and some soap will clean everything like new in a very short time frame, without the finish peeling off as paint can sometimes do if not stripped to bare metal first and then baked on.
 
T

Tinster

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Tinkerman said:
Tinster you must of had a cow when you saw what happened to your beautiful powder coated parts! Maybe the original builders understood what the raveges of road use would do and thats why they left many of those parts the original finish.
I feel for you, those parts were looking great when you PC'd them.

Tinkerman
Click to expand...

Tinkerman,

I was surprised; given how few miles I've driven
and how many hours (weeks) of labor I put into the suspension
rebuild.

d
 
Brosky

Brosky

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Let's get crackin' with some soap and water under there Dale!

It seems that with a little rain and below 80 degree weather and you turn into a slug with the maintenance work.

C'mon, chop, chop.......
 
PeterK

PeterK

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It's the ravages of the salt sea air that makes everything rust so quickly. I always spray a metal protectant (like Boeshield T-9) on exposed metal parts.
 
DrEntropy

DrEntropy

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:lol:

I've not washed the Spider in 6 months. It sits under "water" oak trees and now looks like a pollen collection experiment.
 
T

Tinster

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PeterK said:
It's the ravages of the salt sea air that makes everything rust so quickly. I always spray a metal protectant (like Boeshield T-9) on exposed metal parts.
Click to expand...


PeterK-

I'm the stupid kid on the block, remember? Could you possibly be suggesting
one of the marine sprays I use on the metal parts of my boat and Mercury
engine <span style="color: #CC0000">everytime </span> I use the boat??

Color me dumbfounded!

dale :shocked:
 
PeterK

PeterK

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D-

Not sure what marine sprays you use, but even a thin layer of grease will keep the hardware from the salt air and prevent rust. Boeshield T-9 was actually developed for use on aircraft hardware (by Boeing), and helps keep the rust off. Blaster Corrosion Stop (made by PB Blaster folks) also works well.

One of problems of keeping the underside of our cars too clean and free of grease and oil, is that rust will attack, especially in your neck of the woods where there is sand to abrade the underside as you drive exposing it to salt air attacks. There's always something to do isn't there?
 
angelfj1

angelfj1

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Just as I had always suspected, the genius engineers at Canley had perfected a sports car with automatic undercarriage rust prevention. TR's do not leak oil. What you see is the auto-corrosion system in action!!!
 
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