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Wiring Harness

Sopp

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I'm needing to buy a complete wiring harness for my 100M.
Who makes the most concours accurate harness?
Thank you.
 

dezand

Senior Member
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Do you still have the original harness?
If you do and if the only problem is the woven outside covering, it can be recovered exactly as original.
 

zblu

Jedi Knight
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Is what I did, they used an "octopus:? to weave the original bumble bee pattern and even stitched the branches
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
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I think it depends on the condition of the individual wires. My original harness had cracking cotton over crumbling rubber. Also the overbraid was in very poor condition. Not much to save.

Got complete new harness from Brit Wiring. Very close to original & high quality.
https://www.britishwiring.com/
D
 

zblu

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Second Dave Russells suggestion, replace the lot, or the Prince of Darkness will be supping at your table for a long time! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
OP
S

Sopp

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I have NO original harness. Will be starting from scratch.

I want a Concours Gold harness. Who makes one of that quality and correctness?

Can't really tell by looking at pictures on the net. I need to order one this week.
Thank you,

Sopp
 

zblu

Jedi Knight
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Better buy a copy of "Cluasinger?" then, seeing as how you are going for gold, as it details in color all the correct detail
 

mjobrien

Jedi Trainee
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As Dave mentioned British Wiring has a great harness. I just installed a Cloth coverd one in my BN1 and it worked out great. No issues with installation or wires and it matched the schematic wire to wire. In all the pictures that I looked at from books and on line this is a perfect match for a harness.


Michael.
 

zblu

Jedi Knight
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Had mine covered locally michael, black/yellow bumble pattern to spec, as at the time were not available/net contacts didnt exist, my how things improve with an internet
 
OP
S

Sopp

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I am ordering a complete harness from British Wiring. His harnesses certainly look right in the pictures. I hope they "judge" as well as they look.

If this restoration project doesn't give me heart attack number 6, I will be surprised..........or just delighted!

Sopp
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
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As long as you are getting into this project, I have a few suggestions.

If you have the early Hundred, make sure that you get the harness that has two OD relays mounted on the INSIDE & the BN1 style wiring to the OD.

The harnesses are actually made in the UK. BW has a few in stock.

I ordered mine with a few internal modifications to wire routing & size. This to accomodate an alternator & a few other things.

The lower run of wiring from the engine back was originally overwrapped with plastic non stick tape. The tape is available from BW.

Get an extra assortment of bullet sizes & sleeves.

The bullets are crimped onto the wires. BW has a nice crimper which works extremely well - #TT-85. With the very high quality crimp, there is no need to solder. If you use a lesser crimper, it might be well to solder also.

The bullets go into the sleeves extremely tight. BW has a bullet inserting tool #SSC1, which makes this job so much easier & the connections very secure.

Put a dab of dilectric grease in the sleeve ends before inserting the bullets. keeps moisture out of the connections.

Once a bullet is fully inserted, it's nearly impossible to remove it. Thus the spares.

It's a really good idea to get new harness hold down clips. The BW clips matched my originals well. Some offerings from other sources don't match.

Lay the entire harness on the floor & very loosely make the bullet connections between sections. Tag every wire end & verify the circuits end to end for continuity before starting to install.

Have a enlarged version of your wiring diagram made so that you can easily follow things. Have it plastic covered & you can check things off with a marking pen.

The main harness where it goes through the firewall may be extremely tight. I had to cut my old harness at this point to get it out. Also, there was no hope of getting the new harness & it's grommet back through this hole without enlarging the hole.

When you go to test things, put a temporary 20 amp fuse in line with the main feed.

It's a lot of work so take it slow & easy.

Hope I didn't rattle on TOO much.
D
 
B

BUNDYRUM

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Dave, no not too much but as usual good solid advice. Can't go wrong with these instructions.

bundyrum.
 

mjobrien

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Dave,


Where would you recommend this 20Amp fuse be located? Sounds like a safe way to test...

"When you go to test things, put a temporary 20 amp fuse in line with the main feed."

Thanks,
Michael.
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
Gold
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In line with the large brown wire where it connects to the starter solenoid. A couple of short jumpers with alligator clips on the ends will work. Brown wire, jumper, fuse, jumper, large solenoid terminal to the battery.
D
 
OP
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Sopp

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First, a big thank you to everyone who responded to my question.

Then, a special thank you to Dave Russell for that list of do's and don't's. That list should save what hair I have left. Some of the simplist and silliest mistakes are the ones that cause the most frustration. I'll have Josh add a few more small items to the order.

When I test a new wiring system, I do it with a half worn out pair of 6-volt lantern batteries in series. Enough juice to light up the test lights without the danger of burning up the whole harness. 20amp fuse in the main line is a good idea too. I'll keep you all posted.

Thank you again,
Sopp<span style="font-family: 'Century Gothic'"> </span>
 

pan

Jedi Warrior
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I used a product from an Australian supplier:
"Vintage Wiring Harness". They were in Bellingen in New South Wales at the time (2003) but I hear they have relocated to Melbourne.
I had an option of modern plastic cable or more original cloth bound cable, both covered in cloth binding. Also optional LH or RH steer.
It fit perfectly and works a treat.
The website is: www.vinwire.com.au
 
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