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This is queer....

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Guest

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When I unbolted my head to remove it, I unscrewed all the studs (ARP studs have allen holes in the ends) and slid them out. THE HEAD CAME RIGHT OFF WITHOUT A FIGHT! Now I know I torqued these things down, even went about 5 lbs over rec limits. Ever seen a head pop off that easily? Now leaks, no blow-by...it was down good and snug. Queer indeed.
 
TR4nut

TR4nut

Yoda
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Bill-

Only time I've fought the head is getting them off the studs - sounds like the ARP setup improves that issue.

Randy
 
71tr

71tr

Jedi Warrior
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I tend to agree w/Randy. I think your setup is simply proper and well designed. Gone are the days of prying and beating the head off those studs.
 
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vettedog72

Jedi Knight
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I think it takes a little more time for the studs to rust and bind the head. The new studs are superior to the OEM's but they will rust. How long has the head been on that rocket?
 
PeterK

PeterK

Yoda
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ISTR that ARP recommends only about 5lbs torque for the studs into the block. A good sealing head gasket prevents the water jacket from leaking between the studs and holes in the head so no rust.

When I pulled the head of my crusty, rusted in 1/2 TR4A parts car, the head slid right off and had a new milled looking surface. I was sure that the had had been milled fresh until I measured it and found it eactly as new @3.330". Good head gasket and clean water jacket. It had been on for nearly 40 years and sat in a field in Vermont for at least 10.
 
Brosky

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
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Bill,

Was there any signs at all of corrosion on that stud on the right back, notorious for seizing to the head? I would doubt it after only 5,000 miles, but I'm still curious.
 
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