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E-Type color & coolant question: Please help:

toysrrus

Yoda
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Hi Folks;

I`m typ. on the Triumph forum but I`ve always been & will be an "E-Type" lover:

Today, I came across a find (`64 Rdstr) and have a couple of questions:

The gent says that she leaks coolant thru the back of the engine or the head? When started he says it just drips; When throttle applied, It`ll leave a puddle: Is it possible that the Hd. is cracked or just may need a Hd Gasket? I did`nt run the car today but surely will tomorrow to see exactly where its leaking:

Also; I would like to find out what her color is without going thru getting a Heritage Cert for now: Where can I find this out by supplying a VIN #? I tried xkedata.com but that does`nt give me the answer: It looks like its a Ascot Fawn or Beige or Golden Sand? Can`t tell?

Also; I notice that some of the early E-types have the Alum. machined console & dash & some do not? What`s the story there? I`m going to try to find out in the Orig. Jag E-Type by Philip Porter:

Well; Thats it! Wish me luck with this 2 owner car!

Regards, Russ /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif

Car # is: 880827
 

LarryK

Yoda
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The leak at the back of the head can be the core plug at the top of the block. Hard to get to in car. This is from age or lack of proper anti-freeze.
Do not have color chart right now can get back tomorrow. Ascot Fawn sounds real familiar. The turned dashes I believe are earlier models, like the flat floor Series 1.
 
OP
toysrrus

toysrrus

Yoda
Offline
Howdy Larry & Steve;

Thanx for the info. on the potential coolant problem: Today, I`m going back to really take a close look at her: First, I`m going to my "Guru Brit Mech". who also has a `64 Rdstr: Maybe I can even twist his arm into going to see the car with me? If not today, surely within a day or so!

Yes Steve, Today will be a "Photo Shoot" of the entire car: This new toy is virtually rust free except for a very strange "Custom" made plates on both sides of the car that someone "Glued" or something right at the rear of the sill area? The Seller says thats the way his dad bought it & can`t explain why: It almost looks like a "Stone Guard", If you can picture it? I suspect its just covering some rust area there? But, These plates were made "Identical" on both sides of the car? "Strange" indeed:

Well; We`ll see! Waiting for the color info. Larry: Thanx in advance:

Regards, Russ /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
OP
toysrrus

toysrrus

Yoda
Offline
Howdy Folks;

Here`s an up-date on Car #880827: `64 Series I OTS / 9:1 head: She`s a matching #s car: Very nice Driver condition: Don`t try finding it on "xkedata" cause Its not there, Yet!

I emailed "Julia Simpson" of the "Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust"; Gave her the VIN & She gave me the rest of the info. Engine # etc: All Matches up! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif I`ll be ordering the Heritage Certificate shortly: /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

She is in fact "Sand" in color: Int. color is supposed to be "Light Tan" (Currently a really nice Baseball Glove color), Lots of "Patina": Boot & Boot cover is supposed to be a "Tan"; which it is:

Relative to the coolant leak: Tried looking for a leak at the "Rear Core Plug" but can`t see anything including the Core Plug: No leaks around the Head Gasket at all: No leaks at any of the Heater Hoses etc: Dry as a bone on the Interior Floor: The fluid on the ground is just coolant, No oil in at all: The "Drip" is under the area where the Trans meets the Engine: What sort of ideas out there? My Brit Guru Mech. is not certain without being there: /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif

Relative to "Rust": The Drivers side (LH) Sill has quite a bit of bondo in it: The Passengers side is OK: Some bondo directly under the LH Side Bumper: RH is OK: Balance of car is fine:

I took a bunch of Pics but with a Reg camera: My digital is still on a blink:

Whatever input you folks may have out there; Please don`t be bashful:

Regards and Thanx,

Russ

PS: How do I change my "Avatar" from a TR4 to one of my E-Types? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif
 
OP
toysrrus

toysrrus

Yoda
Offline
Hi There Larry & Steve;

Is this "Core Plug" the same as the "Freeze out" plugs on the side of the engine?

To Change the rear Core Plug; Will the engine have to come out? I`m just guessing it will:

Thanx Again for your input;

Regards, Russ
 

LarryK

Yoda
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The colors for the XKE 1963-1964 were:
Exterior/Interior
Cream/Blk
Bronze/Red, Dk tan, Lt beige
Sand/Blk, Lt Beige

Yes, core plugs are freeze plugs. They are the holes used to release the sand during casting and plugged by small metal cups, aka, freeze plugs.

Good luck!
 

Steve

Moderator
Staff member
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Normally, yes, you will probably have to pull the engine in order to get to the rear-most core plug. What I did to fix the problem on my MGB will make your hair curl, but it might work, and will be a heck of a lot cheaper. That is, if it is the culprit after all.........
 
OP
toysrrus

toysrrus

Yoda
Offline
Well Steve;

Please don`t leave me in Limbo Land: What did you do to the MG?

Curious,

Russ

PS: Larry, your 100% correct: Car # 880827; Per Heritage Trust; was "Sand" Ext / "Lt. Tan" Int:
 

Steve

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Russ, I cleaned out the core as much as possible, and put some gasket sealer or similar around the hole. I then bout a new core plug, and placed it in position. The goo held it in place for me.

Then i took a pickaxe head that I had in the shed, and using a rag as cushioning against the paint, I placed the boss of the pickaxe against the firewall.

A socket of an appropriate size went up against the pluc, held in place by the broad blade of the pickaxe. Then I struck the other end of the pick head several times with a sizeable hammer, the force of the blow being transmitted in the other direction by the pick head rocking on its boss.

The plug flattened out as it should, sealing the core. It stayed perfectly watertight for the remaining time that I kept the car (about eighteen months).

A little bit DPO I know, but as the alternative was to take the engine out it was the only option for me. I didn't even have a garage back then, and no engine hoist to help me. The repair worked fine, and I was alone when I did it. With another pair of hands it would have been even easier, and faster.

It all depends on you having somewhere on the car where you can securely rest that pickaxe boss. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
OP
toysrrus

toysrrus

Yoda
Offline
Hi Steve;

Kind of Interesting: Kind of crude but I guess whatever works!

One thing I don`t understand? How the heck did you get to swing a hammer in that super tight space?

Thanx for a potential solution;

Russ
 
OP
toysrrus

toysrrus

Yoda
Offline
Hi Steve;

Now I understand: Its still kind of difficult, Is`nt it?

Well; I guess there`s only one way to find out! I`ll surely try it!

Thanx Again;

Russ
 

LarryK

Yoda
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I used Steve's method on a Jag 140 some years back as a new driver, it takes time but was very successful. I was driving my Mom to Indiana and before we got 100 miles out a loud pop insued and antifreeze went everywhere. Luckily the Shell station ( where we coasted ) had a core plug the size I needed and he loaned me the tools and sealer and gave me the plug and antifreeze just to see if it worked. Said it was worth the parts so he new how to do it for someone else.
 
OP
toysrrus

toysrrus

Yoda
Offline
Hi Steve & Larry;

How did you & or What did you use to remove the "Old Plug" from the Block? I`ve never done it before so, I`m "REALLY" interested in this process before pulling the engine!!

I suspect it req`d. a ton of patience as a primary tool!!

Regards, Russ /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin
Platinum
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If you can get the old one out and clean the I.D. of the hole properly, use a rubber expandable as a temporary fix until you pull the engine.
 

Steve

Moderator
Staff member
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My core plug blew out as well, similar to Larry's situation, so I was "fortunate".

Maybe get you guy to check that it is indeed the core plug that's weeping first. If so, and you need to remove it, perhaps a hole in the plug with a thin bit, followed by a self-tapping screw. Vice grips and brute force to follow?
 
OP
toysrrus

toysrrus

Yoda
Offline
Hey Steve;

I like your idea! I`m going to degrease the heck out of it & take another look to see whats going on back there:

Thanx Again for the Help;

Regards, Russ
 

LarryK

Yoda
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Mine blew out, but you could use the pick and poke hole in what's left. If it is rusting out will be easier. if it is on edge you'll probably pry out. I tried the rubber plugs in a Ranchero 351C at one time, it blew out as the rubber would not expand inside to plug hole. I would not use temporary on a Jag just for the cost of head if warped when overheats.
 
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