What paint system to use?

I've been sanding down the poor quality respray that is chipping off wholesale and getting ready to do a repaint on my TR7. The PO sprayed a very thick coat on with no primer over the original coat and it hasn't held up well to say the least.

In some places it has crazed quite a bit, and as I'm sanding it down it is much better and not sloughing off, but I don't know how far down I should go. I don't want to go down to bare metal if I don't need to, but is there a good paint system that will help "seal" the remaining paint and ensure a good bond that will last. I want to be sure that the crazing does not come back in the future.

I'm planning on keeping the same exterior color (white), and will not be doing the engine bay or trunk area as they are still in quite good shape (the original paint seems to have held up well in these areas).

Any advice is welcomed!!!

--Saul

Hello Saul,

I am not familiar with US paint systems, and I believe that they are different than the types available to us in the UK, especially paints that are suitable for home application.
I understand that crazing is due to overthick application of paint or too many layers applied too quickly.
I would suggest that you go to your local Auto paint supplier and ask their advice. Alternatively check the websites of paint manufacturers.

Alec

Saul,

I sounds like the original paint was not sanded well before the respray. Probably didn't use any prep solvent to get rid of old wax, silicone, etc. That is why it peels off and crazes. I wouldn't trust it to hold up even with additional coats on top.

I would sand off all of the respray paint job until you are just sanding on the original paint. Just try not to go through the original primer to hit bare metal. An orbital or Dual action (DA) sander would make the job go pretty quick. I wouldn't use anything heavier than 180 so you don't get deep sanding scratches. If you can use 240 to go through the respray it would be better.

Once you get the respray off then you can spray primer, block sand and then spray the final coat.

The following website has some good body and paint tips for a home spray job.
https://www.theautoist.com/body_repairs.htm

Cheers,
John

They say the three most important aspects of a paint job are preparation, preparation and preparation. A topcoat will only be as good as its substrate. As a minimum I would definitely take off the PO's spray job.

If the factory finish is in good shape you may you may not have to go down to bare metal. It doesn't have to be pretty, just sturdy. With the less aggressive chemical strippers you may find that you can take off the re-spray without disturbing the factory coat. If there are any rust spots at all take those areas down to bare metal.

Once all the bad paint is gone and any bodywork is done sand the whole surface smooth and apply the primer and paint of choice per the manufacturer's instructions.


PC.

There was an earlier discussion here;

https://www.britishcarforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001276
D

I have found this web site helpful when I have painting questions. He is a pro and you can write him if you can't find your answer on his web site. It is: https://members.tripod.com/~bobstory/faq.html
His opinion is that you should always take the old paint off down to bare metal for the best possible quality. My opinion is if you don't mind small imperfections and don't need a show quality paint job you can sand down to good paint and use that as a base. Provided the new paint is compatable with the old. I haven't done one to bare metal yet but mine aren't show quality either.
Also, here is a web site that sells car paint and supplies on line. I have used them and they are fast. https://www.autobodysupply.net/
Bob

Living in California with it’s over regulation from the EPA, Air Quality Management District, OSHA, Cal-OSHA getting a good paint job isn’t impossible, but it can be quite challenging at best. A quart of auto paint can cost $400. or more and some paints I have to have shipped in "Sub Rosa" because it is illegal to open the can in California, or transport it for that matter!!!

Actually, the two part auto paint systems with a clear top coat can be very nice option despite the challenges of meticulous preparation and associated costs of man-hours and materials.

Some people I know go down south of San Diego to buy paint. They say it is cheaper, and has more pigment.

Illegal though, I'm sure.

Super 7;

As you might already know, you can get a really first class paint job South of the Border and it's 100X less $$$ than in California. There are many Caveats to that but it can be done.

I actually use the local Jr. Collage Auto-Body Trade School Program. I had my Cobra replica painted by 3 students and almost 300 hours of hand work on it for just over $1,200. The guys got a finished photo of the car, and a letter attesting to the over all quality produced and I got a near show quality paint job. Oh! and thay got an "A" for the course. The down side is thay had the car for 6 weeks during the semester, but some painting shops would have your car there for that long too. So... OPTIONS!

Jim, you're right, there are always options if we look hard enough. I'm having my GT6 painted with new pans and sills this month for less than $1500, including parts. I found a fellow who maintains all the City's fire trucks (which look PERFECT). After a little cajoling, he agreed to do my car. He's a second-generation paint-and-body man and does resto work on classic cars as a side job. He and his son have a nice, 4 bay garage near his home and they seem to take real pride in their work.

I'll help him with the prep work, and in return, I'll get a concours-level paint job to take to the shows next spring.

It just takes some digging around: every local automotive community has a reputable body guy or two who can make your car look better than new for a fair price. Referrals from other collector cars and car clubs are most useful in finding such craftsmen.

Good luck with your resto!

Well a lot of great info and links in here...but in the end I decided to leave it to a professional...

I removed all the trim and accessories that would interfere and did a rough sand of the outside and drove it to a local paint shop last night.

Must have been quiate a sight...15 degress out, no top, no bumpers, no hood, doors tied shut with a rope across the cockpit, one seat for driving. Lights were in just for signals and illumination, and one VERY eskimo-looking fellow driving it to the shop. I certainly got some very strange looks...and those were just the ones from my wife.

After the body is taken care of I'll be doing the reassembly, but all in all when I looked at what it would cost to have done vs the job I could do and the time it would take, it seemed this was the better road to take.

srmorse;

Which ever path you desided to take will be right for you. Wishing you all the luck in getting what you want in a wonderful paint job.

I'd have paid money to see you in the car bundled up with the doors tied shut. What an image. LOL