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Thread: TR3A rusty floor, part one

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  1. #1
    Great Pumpkin NutmegCT's Avatar
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    TR3A rusty floor, part one

    Pulled the passenger seat and carpet/padding. Obvious small holes in the far corner, in a few depressions, and along the side. Other than these holes, metal seems same thickness in front and in back (under seat). Area in front of seat sliders has surface rust; area under seat no surface rust.

    Pictures are (1) carpet out, (2) corner holes, (3) side holes, (4) after wirebrush. Wirebrush revealed a few small holes in some of the depressions.

    After using wire brush on my drill, much surface rust is gone. Appears to have some kind of black coating over the original red paint - anti-rust?

    I'd appreciate any comments or thoughts on my next step(s). I hand and eye checked the inner sill, and it's solid. I wonder if I should just "patch" those small holes, and put some kind of rust-encapsulator over the entire surface?

    Thanks all.
    Tom

    Mac & Phyllis Take a Trip: http://nutmegflyer.com/trip-details-daily-updates/
    History: 1976 MGB, 1959 Triumph TR3A, 1960 Mercedes-Benz 190b, 1958 Rambler American, 1953 MG TD.
    Next? who the heck knows!

  2. #2
    Jedi Knight NickMorgan's Avatar
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    Re: TR3A rusty floor, part one

    Tom,
    I think that in an ideal world new floors would be the best answer. The problem with patching various areas like that is where to stop. As this isn't an ideal world you could remove as much rust, paint, etc from the floors as possible, use rust encapsulator and then fiber glass for the summer. Maybe put new floors in over the winter (Notice that I didn't say which winter!) At least with new floors you know that the job has been done properly.
    Nick
    1959 Triumph TR3A,
    1962 Triumph Herald 1200,
    1974 Triumph Toledo,
    1972 Morris Minor Traveller (My wife points out that this is her car!)

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    Obi Wan Twosheds's Avatar
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    Re: TR3A rusty floor, part one

    Tom, the floorboards in The Blue TR3 were not quite as rusty as yours, but holes were in the corner similar to, but not as big as, yours. I cleaned the loose surface rust, sprayed with encapsulater, and painted with a brush.

    Maybe it's the aircraft mechanic in me, but I fabricated (bent) patches to cover the holes from leftover aircraft aluminum. I attached the patches to the floor with rivets.

    They are still in place 13 years later.
    Dr. John R. Herrera
    Chief Boffin and Managing Director
    Or is it Directing Manager?
    High Speed Triumph Research Laboratory
    Soggy Bottom Facility

    Gordon Thorburn, the British author of the book “Men and Sheds,” explained that the word shed derived from the Anglo-Saxon “scead,” or shade. It was, in a metaphorical sense, obscure, an “intellectual pantry” or “spiritual home” where a man could reflect and dawdle with tools and toys.

  4. #4
    Tinster
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    Re: TR3A rusty floor, part one

    Tom,

    I used pop rivets and Rezi-Weld epoxy to install sections.

    I agree with Twosheds and my floors were in far worse
    condition than yours. Also like yours, I had good, sound
    sills. I burned the rust with Naval jelly, wire brushed it
    and then chopped out the bad areas to within 3/4" of the
    sills. I fabricated 14 gage steel sheet to span from outer
    sill to tranny sill. Rust encapsulator primer over
    everything except Rezi-Weld epoxy zones. Pre-drilled for pop
    rivets and set the panel in place. Two coats of 2 part
    urethane epoxy and my new floors were completed in about 4 days.










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    Jedi Knight Harry_Ward's Avatar
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    Re: TR3A rusty floor, part one

    De-rust, protect, and patch! Summers coming so get out and drive it. A strange thing called while I'm there starts to take control and before you know it it's late Fall and the snow is flying.

    [img]/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif[/img]
    Harry Ward
    1959 TR3A
    CT

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