TR2/3/3A TR3A rusty floor, part one

Pulled the passenger seat and carpet/padding. Obvious small holes in the far corner, in a few depressions, and along the side. Other than these holes, metal seems same thickness in front and in back (under seat). Area in front of seat sliders has surface rust; area under seat no surface rust.

Pictures are (1) carpet out, (2) corner holes, (3) side holes, (4) after wirebrush. Wirebrush revealed a few small holes in some of the depressions.

After using wire brush on my drill, much surface rust is gone. Appears to have some kind of black coating over the original red paint - anti-rust?

I'd appreciate any comments or thoughts on my next step(s). I hand and eye checked the inner sill, and it's solid. I wonder if I should just "patch" those small holes, and put some kind of rust-encapsulator over the entire surface?

Thanks all.
Tom

Tom,
I think that in an ideal world new floors would be the best answer. The problem with patching various areas like that is where to stop. As this isn't an ideal world you could remove as much rust, paint, etc from the floors as possible, use rust encapsulator and then fiber glass for the summer. Maybe put new floors in over the winter (Notice that I didn't say which winter!) At least with new floors you know that the job has been done properly.
Nick

Tom, the floorboards in The Blue TR3 were not quite as rusty as yours, but holes were in the corner similar to, but not as big as, yours. I cleaned the loose surface rust, sprayed with encapsulater, and painted with a brush.

Maybe it's the aircraft mechanic in me, but I fabricated (bent) patches to cover the holes from leftover aircraft aluminum. I attached the patches to the floor with rivets.

They are still in place 13 years later.

Tom,

I used pop rivets and Rezi-Weld epoxy to install sections.

I agree with Twosheds and my floors were in far worse
condition than yours. Also like yours, I had good, sound
sills. I burned the rust with Naval jelly, wire brushed it
and then chopped out the bad areas to within 3/4" of the
sills. I fabricated 14 gage steel sheet to span from outer
sill to tranny sill. Rust encapsulator primer over
everything except Rezi-Weld epoxy zones. Pre-drilled for pop
rivets and set the panel in place. Two coats of 2 part
urethane epoxy and my new floors were completed in about 4 days.

De-rust, protect, and patch! Summers coming so get out and drive it. A strange thing called while I'm there starts to take control and before you know it it's late Fall and the snow is flying.

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