Spitfire So I am doing the upgrade on the spitfire

and I need to know a few things regarding replacing the carb +intake on our 1975 1500. I am putting a Weber Downdraft and Cannon intake where the Z/S and stock intake lives now.

three things.

1.What do I do with all the lines coming from the coal canister, I usaully plug them on any other car..but since it's british EVERYTHING SEEMS TO EFFECT EVERYTHING tremedously when you make a change.

2. If I plug where the valve cover plugs in the coal canister, is this ok? on my other cars it's important to run some type of breather/PCV if I plug it, what will happen in regards to running?

3. there is a tube running from the stock intake manifold to the (heat riser maybe?) exhaust pipe, how do I do away with this since the cannon intake doesn't have ANY accomindations for this


if you s can't understand my questions(it's late been a long day working on the cars..lol) Just ask me to clairfy..i would like to get the new intake/carb on tommorrow

Cheers and thanks!

You need a breather tube to let the hot gasses escape. Breather lines from the valve cover is convenient and inexpensive, but not optimal. Its better to let the crank case vent, but this usually requires modification of the oil pan (on blocks with the deep oil sump pans). I don't know if the 1.5 has a deep oil pan or not. the vent has to come a couple of inches above the top of the oil level, or it would push the oil out the vent instead of the hot gasses. On a "skirted block" like the 2.5 a hole has to go into the block, for the experts only.
A pcv valve can run between the valve cover and the intake manifold, if you drill and tap a fitting, or run it to the inside of the air cleaner box.
The charcoal cannister is a pollution reducing accessory to reduce evaporation of fumes to the atmospher. The intake ( vacuum side) usually sucks air from this cannister to burn the fumes.

so, pulg the lines from the coal canister, chop the heat riser tube off and make some tyoe of PCV

well vicky brit lies when thier ad say no mods needed...sheee whizz...

I did the same mod to my B and it was mostly a matter of plumbing

the weber is on. but still have some questions

1. the throttle doesn't spring back, the only location I see for a spring is on the carb linkage itself and its a very weak spring when the cable is attached...can this be upgraded? is there a heavier spring?

2. I took off the tube from the intake to the heat riser can I leave it alone or do I need to plug it?

3. I need to replumb the hoses going back into the water pump.there are two that use to join and go (via a steel tube) back into the water pump from the firewall...could I just use a "t" type fitting or is there a better way to do this??

4. if I don't have to tap into the mainfold to make a pcv, is there another trick way to make either a pcv work or breather from the tube that was plugged where it went to the coal canister..

5. I took of the coal canister and plugged everthing that lead to it

am I doomed??...lol

I took plenty of pictures...If my questions seem unclear I could email to any one who has done this before..if any one is willing to help

thanks!!

Cheers



[ 01-05-2003: Message edited by: punk_piper ]</p>

I will probably just confuse the issue by relating what I did on my TR-7 as it is FI and there's not much similarity. When preparing to reinstall the engine I removed both evap canisters and ran the line from the fuel tank into the suspension turret wheel well just because I didn't know what plugging it would do and that made it look like it went somewhere. The breather on the 7 is on the valve (cam) cover the line from it would normally split and go to the canister and the intake below the throttle body. This I routed to an area below the intake manifold and installed a small K&N filter as would be used on the crankcase breather on a motorcycle. This is working well with no oil slobber from the breather, though the 7 does have a collector in the cam cover and another outside it. What happens when the second one fills I don't know but I don't think I'm getting any oil out of the breather on this fresh rebuild and don't expect any for many miles. Hope this doesn't muddy the water too much. Good luck and don't rat me out to the EPA.

I'm doing basically the same thing to my 1980, 1500.
Used a Pierce manifold w/ a Weber 32/36 carb and installed a 4 to 1 header. Didn't bother w/ the water line through the intake.
Ran a hose from the valve cover to the existing fitting on the base of the new K&N filter.
Several articles also recommend replacing the mechanical fuel pump w/ an electric unit and fabricating a crankcase breather where the old fuel pump mounted; that's on my "to do" list.
I had to add an aux. spring for the throttle return; have it attached to the shock tower. Not pretty, but functional; will probably make a bracket to attach to the carb base at some point.
All canisters removed and a fuel filter stuck on the end of the tank vent line to keep out dirt.
Good luck !

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by SBooth:
I'm doing basically the same thing to my 1980, 1500.
Used a Pierce manifold w/ a Weber 32/36 carb and installed a 4 to 1 header. Didn't bother w/ the water line through the intake.
Ran a hose from the valve cover to the existing fitting on the base of the new K&N filter.
Several articles also recommend replacing the mechanical fuel pump w/ an electric unit and fabricating a crankcase breather where the old fuel pump mounted; that's on my "to do" list.
I had to add an aux. spring for the throttle return; have it attached to the shock tower. Not pretty, but functional; will probably make a bracket to attach to the carb base at some point.
All canisters removed and a fuel filter stuck on the end of the tank vent line to keep out dirt.
Good luck !<hr></blockquote>
Thanks for posting that you'd done the same thing with your tank vent as I had. I have another of the little K&Ns and now will put that on mine like you did with the fuel filter.

[ 01-06-2003: Message edited by: Dale ]

[ 01-06-2003: Message edited by: Dale ]</p>

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME TO WRITE THAT!!!, it makes sense now I also know I am not along doing this goofy conversion..lol.....cheers!

Did you run a throttle return spring to the shock tower? I think it would be better to connect it to the engine,because the engine is twisting on the engine mounts and vibrating. A piece of mild steel can be drilled, bent and attached to someplace on the block.
The ends of the springs should not be affected by the difference of the engine movement and the chassis.
SCCA requires redundancy of throttle springs. Its a safety issue. A spring on the pedal is also a good idea, so the throttle spring doesn't have to pull the pedal back.

I did the whole ball of wax.. Made a catch tank out of 3/4 PVC pipe with a petcock on the bottom and a K&N filter on the top. Looks super and works like a charm. Ran the valve cover vent over to it and I driled and tapped a 3/8 pipe thread into an aluminum plate covering my fuel pump hole.
( I have and elect. one now) Then ran that over to it too. Need to empty every 6 months a couple of spoonfulls if that. Guess what my??? rear seal stopped leaking. Seems the preassure was helping the oil past the rear seal at high rpm.(5000+). PS mounted it on the bellhousing under the carbs with an emt clamp.

[ 01-20-2003: Message edited by: maueman ]</p>

any pics of the work yous done?