Engine Rebuild Question

I live in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area and own a 1975 TR6. Recently had new Webers installed and a new header and exhaust. I am noticing a decent amount of smoke coming out of the tailpipes and running through quite a bit of oil. I only leave about a nickel size drop on floor, so I have to assume that I'm losing it in the engine hence the smoke.

My question is does anyone have an idea what a decent rebuild should cost. I'm also trying to figure out if I can get away with just a valve job, but really have no way of telling where exactly in the engine the oil is going. There are only a couple (that I know of) shops capable of doing this kind of work on the TR6 and am getting an average of $3,000.00 for a rebuild. Does this sound reasonable? Thanks!

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by OnBlocks:
... I'm also trying to figure out if I can get away with just a valve job, but really have no way of telling where exactly in the engine the oil is going. ...<hr></blockquote>

You might get away with a valve job if your only problem is worn valve guides. A compression check is easy to do - first get & record the numbers for each cylinder (make sure you have the throttle open). Then pump a little oil into each cylinder and do it again. If the pressure increases, then your rings and/or cylinder walls are probably at fault. If not, it's most likely valve guides - the problem here is it might be both or might be bearings.

Once the head is off, the valve condition is easy to determine. The cylinder walls may give a clue as to the condition of the rings.

How's the oil pressure? If low, the bearings may well be worn.

If it were mine, I think I'd bite the bullet and get everything done. When you improve the breathing to the extent you have, you're likely to increase stresses on everything else and in an old engine, all that stuff that spins and slides probably needs refurbishing to stand up to it.

How much oil are you using? Are you sure the smoke isn't just a rich mixture? The best thing about Webers is their "configurability". This is sometimes the worst thing about them, too - it can take a while to get things right.

Good luck getting it sorted - I'm sure it'll be worth it.

John C

John,

Thanks for the feedback. I'm quite confident that I need the whole thing done. My oil pressure isn't bad, but I went through 3 quarts of oil in a month. I've gotten quotes from $3,000 to $4,500, so I guess I need to just suck it up and pay. Thanks again.

David

That price seems high. Ask for a list of parts the shop expects to replace, and whether it includes "balancing". If so, is it dynamic or static. Any high performance parts included in the price? Does it include a new oil pump, special cam shaft work or rocker arm shaft included? The tr6 engine has cam bearings, the gt6 doesn't, but they can be installed.

A top notch re-builder of engines for Triumphs, MGs, etc., is PAECO Engines in Alabama. Even is you don't buy from them, you can get an idea of what a first class rebuild would cost by looking in their catalogue. More info on their website at:

https://www.paeco.com

Thanks everyone for the great feedback! I'm still very new to the automobile hobby (seems like a career now), but am learning a great deal from all of you and certainly appreciate it. I can configure your routers, switches, servers, and IP PBXes, but I'm still a little in the dark on most of the combustible engine. It is something I have always had an interest in and am really enjoying it.

Thanks again,
David

https://www.deelclan.com

My Question to you would be. Did you car have this oil use problem before you put on the Webers? Is the smoke you see white or black? Are you using much more gas now then with the old carbs? How many miles are on the engine?

The reason I ask is it seems odd the problem started with the c arb change. A grossly rich gas mixture can cause you to use more oil, the gas dilutes the oil around the rings and causes it to get sucked into the combustion chamber more easily, this is bad because gas does not lubricate well.

Also when you did the carb change did you change the crankcase breathing in any way? I believe the TR-6 used a positive venting system that use vacuum from the intake manifold to vent the crankcase. If the crankcase is not vented right pressure inside the block can force oil past the valve guides

I would definitely have a compression test done on the car, or better still have a leak-down test done, If the rings and valve are holding compression then the oil use may be from the valve guides and you may be able to get away with pulling the head and having the valves and guides done.

My Question to you would be. Did you car have this oil use problem before you put on the Webers? Is the smoke you see white or black? Are you using much more gas now then with the old carbs? How many miles are on the engine?

The reason I ask is it seems odd the problem started with the c arb change. A grossly rich gas mixture can cause you to use more oil, the gas dilutes the oil around the rings and causes it to get sucked into the combustion chamber more easily, this is bad because gas does not lubricate well.

Also when you did the carb change did you change the crankcase breathing in any way? I believe the TR-6 used a positive venting system that use vacuum from the intake manifold to vent the crankcase. If the crankcase is not vented right pressure inside the block can force oil past the valve guides

I would definitely have a compression test done on the car, or better still have a leak-down test done, If the rings and valve are holding compression then the oil use may be from the valve guides and you may be able to get away with pulling the head and having the valves and guides done.

I'm rebuilding a 1500 Spit engine. From what I've heard from others regarding their Triumph and MG engines, $3000 sounds about right. T.T.

I just had my engine on my GT6 rebulit which is almost the same as the TR6 the price started out at $3000.00 and because I substiiuted some TR6 parts the price went up to about $4500.00 so $3000.00 sounds very good .
Kurt

Auto Artist. That's a very good thing to know. Here is my problem. I bought the Triumph two years ago and only drove it about a month before the Strombergs went kaput. Then it sat on blocks for a year and a half before I got around to doing anything about it. So unfortunately, I really don't know how it ran before the Webers because I just didn't get to spend that much time in it. I guess the best thing I can do is to take it in and have the mechanic check the engine over before determing whether or not it needs to be rebuilt, or not. I really don't remember it smoking like it is, but could the carb tuning really make it go through 3 quarts in a couple hundred miles? It seems to be running very strong with the exception of the oil.

Thanks again,
David

Can recomend Robert Klie Automotive (pronounced klee) St. Francis, KS. A little out of the way I know but well worth it. Bob has been an active member of the Rocky Mtn. Triumph Club for many years and I know that they would vouch for him also. Phone # is (785) 332-2417

Onblocks,

In Dallas I don't know of anyone who I would trust to rebuild it. If you are willing to do about 2 1/2 hours of driving I could help you out myself, and it should only cost about $300 plus the rebuild kit.

Cheers
Walter

Well, I certainly appreciate all of the offers and references! I think I stumbled on to a goldmine. I needed some work done on my 66 Chevy truck and found a local mechanic (speed shop). While I was there I was looking around his shop and saw a number familiar looking straight sixes. I asked him about it and he said that he does all the rebuilds for "Classic Auto Restorations", a pretty popular local restorer of mostly MGs. He said he has done plenty of Triumph and MG engines and gave me a laundry list of referrals. AND he came in $500.00 cheaper than anyone else I've talked to. Not to mention he is only seven miles from my front door and everyone else is at least 25.

I'm pretty excited. Anyway, she goes in today for her rebuild, if I can get her there. The clutch has picked a fine time to go out. I got to work this morning and the shop is only a mile from here, so hopefully I can make it without having to do to much shifting.